Motor Very Hard to Turn Over????

[fordmike1]

Thanks for the response.
So he has the rods on the wrong side of each other? It's been a long time since I've been in side a motor. Even though he has the piston facing the right direction, can the rod slide along the wrist pin enough to place the crank end of the rod on the wrong side of the journal?
In any case I think he has to do a teardown and inspection.
I find myself in the same situations sometimes when I go too quick or have 'just enough' knowledge to be dangerous. That's why I like TRS, for the knowledge that I don't have yet.

Richard

The cylinder will line up with the side of the crank journal that the rod will go on and the wrist pin in the piston should be centered or close to it. If you stick rod #1 into cylinder #7 with the piston still facing the right way and the piston was hung on the rod to be in cylinder #1 then this would make the crank hard to turn as the bearing in the rod would be rideing on part of the Radii of that journal and the more that are installed wrong would make it harder and harder to turn the crank. If he finds this is his problem I would replace the bearings of the rods that were installed wrong as they have been squished onto the Radii and now have been changed in some manner to their proper size that they were made to be.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The cylinder will line up with the side of the crank journal that the rod will go on and the wrist pin in the piston should be centered or close to it. If you stick rod #1 into cylinder #7 with the piston still facing the right way and the piston was hung on the rod to be in cylinder #1 then this would make the crank hard to turn as the bearing in the rod would be rideing on part of the Radii of that journal and the more that are installed wrong would make it harder and harder to turn the crank. If he finds this is his problem I would replace the bearings of the rods that were installed wrong as they have been squished onto the Radii and now have been changed in some manner to their proper size that they were made to be.

Thanks for the clarification.

Richard

 

[306deranged]

Alright guys i have found the problem...I tore the heads off and oil pan and took the motor to my machinist. The guy who i shoudlve let build the motor in the first place. But my friends dad said he could do it and he was ase master certified or whatever...APARENTLY NOT!!! and plus i wanted to learn....he put the thrust bearing on the end instead of the middle where their supposed to go on ford motors, and the rod caps were backwards my machinist said. Its getting fixed now but ill keep you guys updated on what else he messed up. And i even payed him 100$ and now he wont answer me or my friends phone calls. I learned my lesson. Thanks for all you guys help and information, its nice to see some people who actually care about putting stuff together right the first time.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Glad you're getting it sorted out.

Richard

 

[306deranged]

hey do u guys know of a easy way to check for pushrod length...ive got some 6.250's but my springs have been changed and my rockers so i think i need a diff length...although when i had my heads on it "looked" to be dead on the tip of the valve stem

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've been out of this for a LONG time but you could buy an adjustable pushrod for checking lengths in an engine build. I'm sure they are still around. If you plan on doing motor work in the future, I'd say they are a good investment.

Richard

 

[306deranged]

yea i found some that comp makes but not sure on how to use it...i guess it has readings on the end of it looks like and it slides to however far is needed when the motor is turned over? and then i found some plastic looking tool online also

 

[Teddyzee]

Well, look how much you've learned for that $100? Look on the bright side, I think it was worth the money!


I think adjustable pushrods are under $20. They have a gauge on them, AFAIK, so you don't need to measure.

Check your stockers anyway, they may work. I swapped to 177rr's, and the stock (6.25) pushrods work fine.

 

[Explore]

My first post. Picked up a V8 Ranger project with a rebuilt 302 that was never started and set for about 10 years. Gave it to my engine builder to check and good thing I did. All the above was wrong with it. Originally done by a "professional" machine shop. Had to do a complete teardown and reassembly on it. Goes to show not all mistakes are made by amatuers. Glad I did not try to crank it. Doubt it would have lasted thru initial cam breakin.

 

[DeanMLFlame]

hey man don't sweat it...i had this same concern with mine...with a engine almost exactly like yours...it's hard to turn because the rings haven't broken in yet and same with the bearings...once the cam is broken in. you'll notice a big difference...i did go as far as pulling the pan and re-torquing the mains and rods...same ft/lbs as when it was put together still didn't make a difference...so we just went for it...fired up no problems!