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motor swap???


beater ranger

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Messages
9
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
I am considering putting a '96 2.5 engine in a 91 ranger w/ 2.3 worn out liters. I was wondering if the controllers and sensors will swap over or should i just continue my search for a 2.3 replacement? The 2.5 has all electronics with it. Also, will the 2.3 clutch assembly work on the 2.5 flywheel as it was replaced less than a year ago.
 
the clutch between a 2.3 and 2.5 are the same.

lifters are cheap and easy to replace compared to an engine swap. if it's ticking really bad and the stock oil pressure "gage" drops down occasionally it's most likely the oil pump pickup being plugged... if it is just the lifters, they are $5 each at rockauto.com or $6-7 each at a normal store (you would need 8) and all you need to do is take off the upper intake manifold (or throttle body and EGR tube so you can get the valve cover off), get the valve cover off, pry the valve spring caps down with a couple pry bars or long strong screwdrivers so you can get the rockers out then lift out the lifters and replace with new, I've heard of placing a dime under each to help them out.

as for the engine fitting, it would take a bit of wiring to get the dash and other parts working the same, I'm not sure if the stock computer would account for the extra displacement but it might, and you'd have to mount the crank sensor to the new block.
 
I wish it was something as easy as ticking or such, but as it turns out, I have a cylinder with no compression and at least a burned valve or possibly worse. I will know for sure tonight when the head comes off. Thanks for the input and I will just keep looking for a 2.3 of the same vintage so as to minimize headaches with a changeout if required. I did a swap on my first ranger some 15-20 yrs ago and as i recall, it was much simpler. Or maybe I've blocked out the memory as too traumatic. thanks again
 
it's not all that bad assuming they are similar engines, the engine you want to look for is '89-94 then just use your stock wiring harness and computer and everything, if any connectors don't match up change the component it goes to between the two
 
motor swap no, now a head freshening

Well, it turned out to be a burned exhaust valve. So I've puirchased a new valve and am getting ready to install it and was wondering the best way to remove the rocker and install the valve without harming the roller assembly, It doesnt look like a typical valve spring compressor will work. And last but not least, are the head bolts reusable or do they need to be replaced after 1 use? Thanks again for any assistance with this, Ken
 
I believe the bolts are torque to yield, so it would be "best" to get a new set.

the best way to get the rockers off is two pry bars between the cam and valve spring cap, pry the valve down until the rocker can come out, it's pretty simple. and you're right, a normal valve spring compressor doesn't work with the valve spring cup at the bottom, when I was replacing the valve stem seals on my engine I had the compressor holding the valves closed then pried the valve spring caps down, it worked better than the tool designed for the job. If you can get your hands on a valve spring compressor meant to be used with the head off that should work fine.
 

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