More issues

[swynx]

Got the system bled with 100% clutch pedal. If i start the rig in gear i can use the clutch and have an engagement and dis-engagement of the clutch. But i cannot shift into or out of gears. Meaning i can bog the engine down with my foot on the brake.

I found black specks in the fluid so i flushed them out. Im going to change the clutch master cylinder today, as im assuming the rubber line is rotting out and its the original.

I just installed a new pilot bearing, pushed it in as far as it would go, seal out. The throwout felt fine and has less then 3000 miles on it.the slave is obviously working as i can operate the clutch. The slave also has less than 3000 miles.

Also not getting any wierd noises. And it doesnt grind when i try and force it into gear. It just drops a couple rpms bogs the engine down and doesnt go into gear.

Any ideas?

 

[RonD]

My bet would be the transmission is stuck "in gear".

Pull out the shifter again and make sure all 3 shift rail slots are lined up in "neutral" position.
I bet one is off "center"

In the last picture here you can see 2 of the 3 shift rails lined up to Neutral: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/shifterbushings.shtml

 

[ford4thot]

What he said^^^

I left mine in gear

I used a screwdriver to push in the pin on the left side and slid it forwards

 

[swynx]

that wasnt the problem, any other suggestions?

guy at the auto parts store said that if the hose for the master cylinder is bad then it will expand when you push in the clutch.

last night i did notice that if i put it in reverse that the engagement of the clutch is a lot worse, and its almost like it gradually loses pressure, because after about maybe 10 seconds of holding the clutch in while in reverse it will start to drop the rpms, and try to kill the pickup, while on the brake; while also trying to move it backwards. so maybe the clutch master cylinder is bad/leaking?

 

[RonD]

Yes if hose expands then slave looses travel so pressure plate doesn't move back far enough and clutch disc is still rubbing so input shaft is still spinning and so can't come to a stop to engage the non-moving output shaft gears.

Wheels stopped = drive line stopped = output shaft stopped = output shaft gears stopped

To shift into a gear input shaft must come to a complete stop, clutch disc is connected to input shaft so clutch disc must come to a complete stop
Clutch disc is sandwiched between a fly wheel and pressure plate spinning at 600-800RPM, engine idle
If there is even a little pressure/rubbing in that clutch disc sandwich the 4" sychro gear will have a heck of a time slowing down that 10" clutch disc to 0 RPMs


When you replaced the clutch did you use a self adjusting Pressure plate?

Non-self adjusting can work but............it will be hard to get into gear when stopped for a month or so, until clutch disc wears down a bit

And if you don't replace or reset a self-adjusting pressure it won't work well at all, for a few months

 

[swynx]

im not sure what's in it, i had a shop do it and they use napa parts, and it was stamped with luk. i do know that when i put the new engine in it was hard to get it into gear for a little while, just like when you put a new clutch in.

the last time when i put the engine in it only took like a quarter tank of gas to get it to where i could easily put it in gear at a stop.

im gonna go ahead and replace the clutch master cylinder; seeing as tho its really old, and i had rubber particles in the fluid, it couldnt hurt.

 

[swynx]

I grabbed ahold of the rubber line down stream from the reservoir that is located on the frame, with a metal part on each end. When the clutch is pushed in it expands.

Anyone know how to remove this hose? I looked at it but havent ever seen that style of connectors or crimps.

Also this piece is 50$ on rockauto. Expensive piece of rubber, maybe i can replace it with some brake line?

 

[swynx]

so it turns out there is a roll pin on the side of the master cylinder that needs punched out, or drilled out. and then i would need the hose from there all the way down to the transmission. the part i am referring to above is https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-151-65028-Hydraulic-Clutch/dp/B000C06T8U?tag=959media-20 but that doesnt look like anything i have.

so does any one know where i can get a replacement clutch hose from the master down to the transmission. rock auto does not have one. and it looks like the rubber part itself is not replaceable.

edit... it looks like if i buy a pre-bled master cylinder i get the entire master cylinder and hose assembly without the large rubber section that i currently have.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5059506&cc=1190708&jsn=429

my thoughts are to grab this section from the pull and save, but i know theyll be 20 something years old and likely blow out after not too much time.

 

[swynx]

i replaced the clutch master cylinder with a new one, the new one does not have the rubber section of hose, but the same problem persists.

bled the clutch till i had pressure all the way thru the peddle, start the rig cant shift into any gear. turn it off, put it in gear, start it, the peddle travels about an inch off the floor before the rig moves forward or backwards. no chatter, no squeal, no noises.

with the truck turned off i can hear the clutch components ever so slightly squeak as i slowly push in the peddle

for some reason all of a sudden last night i seem to remember seeing some wear on the pressure plate fingers, but ive seen people throw them back in with more wear than mine had, and they drove away fine. im going to pull the transmission back out tonight, and inspect the fingers again. i know that worn fingers will cause difficulty in shifting. but im not sure how much is too much. also im not sure what would cause this as i did not see it when i replaced the engine; i drove almost 2 tanks of gas thru it and now im seeing it.. obviously the throwout, but why?

after all maybe it was more than i thought, and it does need replaced... opinions?

 

[swynx]

minimal grooves...







hard to see but, you can still see the crosshatching on the flywheel.







recessed new pilot bearing, ive tried pounding it in further, with no success.



ive pushed in the throwout bearing hard enough to compress the spring, and turned it with no binding, catching, nothing. it spins good.

replaced the clutch master assembly with hose, still the same issue.

i put the clutch on, hub side towards the flywheel.

at this point i am completely lost, only thing i can really think of is to buy a new clutch kit and hope for the best.

as before i have 1st thru 5th gear and reverse... untill i start the pickup.

 

[swynx]

it turns out there was just air left in the system, i ended up pulling the clutch master cylinder assembly out of the housing. heard a "pop" put it back in and it drives fine now.

 

[RonD]

Sweet, good work

 

[Andy D]

Thanks for follow up. In the thrashing around with the loose captive nuts on the MC, I pulled out the pushrod if there was any sort of retainer ring, it got lost. I didn't feel lucky with just pushing it back together. Glad it worked for you.