more flex

[mb128]

mine has it i just went out and checked just pull that one off also?

is it a good or bad idea to go to a jy and find shackles or just buy them new?

 

[rockwerks]

mine has it i just went out and checked just pull that one off also?

is it a good or bad idea to go to a jy and find shackles or just buy them new?

I usually buy new aftermarket as most are greasable at the bolt which is important for good smooth articulation and yess you can pull the back one also. I would figure out how to keep the front one on the rig and get quick disconnects for it

 

[crawlin91]

build a set of radius arms and install F250 shock towers and longer shocks, if thats not enough look into softer rate coils.

and get new cab mounts

 

[mb128]

this is with just the front sway bar gone.

this is with front and back gone.

my bump stops on the rear are only about 3" from the frame when it is on flat ground could i move them to the lower and have the lifting block on top of it to help?

where would i go to get cab mounts?

 

[rockwerks]

amazing difference with the bars disconnected, Im not getting your question about the block and stop you should be able to get cab mounts at napa

 

[mb128]

if i swap them the other way and have the big block on top and the bump stop block on the bottom?

 

[pwrranger88]

where would i go to get cab mounts?

the cheapest ive found cab mounts are prothane through summit racing they are around 60 for a complete set of poly cab bushings and buy some lift shackles and get rid of the factory block stacked blocks are dangerous

 

[mb128]

one isnt a stock block

 

[pwrranger88]

one isn't a stock block

i know one isn't a stock block. what meant was get lift shackles and take the factory block out and leave the block that came with the lift kit on

 

[rockwerks]

if i swap them the other way and have the big block on top and the bump stop block on the bottom?

WHOOOHHHH!!!! Nelly never ever stack 2 blocks on top of each other VERY DANGEROUS! get lift springs and or lift shackles and keep the tall block and take out the bump stop block

 

[mb128]

i didnt install it. bend truck toys did. i just payed for everything. ill look in to getting shackles when i get back from Washington this weekend. im not talking my truck.

ooo i see wat u mean i thought u ment both blocks

 

[tanbuddy]

does your bumpstop actually hit that stopper when flexed? Is so switching the blocks around will help for now, but i would get shackles and loose the stock block.

 

[4x4junkie]

The The best TTB can only flex half as much as a good setup sas with the same track width, its physics.

Yeah it may be physically possible to get a solid axle to flex twice as far as this, but how do you think that's going to handle on the street? And at what cost would it be? (infact I don't think it'd handle all that well offroad either. It IS entirely possible to have TOO MUCH flex)




Like was said, extended radius arms, longer shocks and better springs all will go a very long way in getting more flex out of any suspension (and of course an improper steering linkage angle will need to be addressed too, which is pretty much guaranteed with most TTB suspension lift kits).

 

[rockwerks]

Yeah it may be physically possible to get a solid axle to flex twice as far as this, but how do you think that's going to handle on the street? And at what cost would it be? (infact I don't think it'd handle all that well offroad either. It IS entirely possible to have TOO MUCH flex)




Like was said, extended radius arms, longer shocks and better springs all will go a very long way in getting more flex out of any suspension (and of course an improper steering linkage angle will need to be addressed too, which is pretty much guaranteed with most TTB suspension lift kits).

This is a mild short arm solid axle setup. tires are 35's 5.5" of lift. jeep ramps out at over 1000 limited by shock length. Oh and it drives down the road with AC working and cruise at 80. I drove it back and forth from AZ to Washington last summer a total of 3500 miles

With long arms and longer shocks 48" of total travel between the front and rear is easily achievable with solid axle a key to solid off road performance is uptravel the TTB is limited in that area. Im not saying it wont work but easier on an SAS rig Oh and steering is not an issue LOL

 

[Bray D]

Since you tried to prove junkie wrong with a pic I may as well do the same for you.

a key to solid off road performance is uptravel the TTB is limited in that area.

Have you studied any of the more recent rock buggies lately? A lot of guys are running low compression, high droop setups.

I've only got 3.5" of uptravel

Didn't quite ramp 1k but I think its steeper than a 20* ramp and I've still got the overload leaf in the chevy 63's too.

My TTB drove better on the road, but its not too bad. Still my DD anyways.