More F150 questions


Ozwynn

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Ok. 2001 4wd 5.4l truck needs a hub assembly. Do I need to take the torsion bar out to do that if I have to remove the knuckle and press the hub out? What tool do I need to get the torsion bar out?
 
Hub assembly is just the wheel bearing. Remove the caliper and rotor, three bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle. CV shaft may be stuck in the inner bore and the hub assembly itself may be stuck in the knuckle.

My 02 was always polite and came apart peacefully however.

No need to remove the knuckle or torsion bars.
 
Hub assembly is just the wheel bearing. Remove the caliper and rotor, three bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle. CV shaft may be stuck in the inner bore and the hub assembly itself may be stuck in the knuckle.

My 02 was always polite and came apart peacefully however.

No need to remove the knuckle or torsion bars.
I’m planning worst case. I drove my Sedona out here from Seattle. It lived its whole life in central California until I bought it. Absolutely no rust. Passenger hub came out with 2 wacks of the hammer. Driverside I had to take the knuckle off and have the hub pressed out.

This F150 has lived its whole life in SW Michigan. I’m sure the hubs are rust welded in.
 
I’m planning worst case. I drove my Sedona out here from Seattle. It lived its whole life in central California until I bought it. Absolutely no rust. Passenger hub came out with 2 wacks of the hammer. Driverside I had to take the knuckle off and have the hub pressed out.

This F150 has lived its whole life in SW Michigan. I’m sure the hubs are rust welded in.

BFH

My brother was a Ford tech at the time, he had my all hyped up for war... and it just fell apart. He couldn't believe it, you never know.
 
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the smokey blue tip wrench may also help. something that has worked for me on a few FWD car hub replacements is to remove the bolts and shaft nut, put a junk rotor on backwards and secure it with 3 lug nuts and use the above mentioned BFH to beat on the rotor from the backside. PB blaster is your friend as well, but be careful with the smokey blue tip wrench while using PB blaster.

AJ
 
I’m planning worst case. I drove my Sedona out here from Seattle. It lived its whole life in central California until I bought it. Absolutely no rust. Passenger hub came out with 2 wacks of the hammer. Driverside I had to take the knuckle off and have the hub pressed out.

This F150 has lived its whole life in SW Michigan. I’m sure the hubs are rust welded in.
I did one on my dads 2013 town and country. Been in MI its whole life.

It took literally HOURS of beating on it HARD....all i had was a MAPP torch though.
 
I’ve been thinking about trying to make an adapter to use a slide hammer to try to remove the wheel bearing assemblies. Usually they get a BFH by itself or with a junk rotor on backwards with lug nuts. I’ll run a flapper around to clean up the rust and treat the mating area with a mix of used oil and grease that I make myself. Rust sucks.
 
I did one on my dads 2013 town and country. Been in MI its whole life.

It took literally HOURS of beating on it HARD....all i had was a MAPP torch though.
Swing the hammer like a man :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:
 
I did one on my dads 2013 town and country. Been in MI its whole life.

It took literally HOURS of beating on it HARD....all i had was a MAPP torch though.
When I did the hubs on the ‘04 Ram 2500 it took 2 hours just to get the driverside rotor off with a hammer. For the driverside hub I had to cut the axle shaft at the ujoint so I could tak the knuckle off. Ended up replacing the knuckle and hub together.
 
When I did the hubs on the ‘04 Ram 2500 it took 2 hours just to get the driverside rotor off with a hammer. For the driverside hub I had to cut the axle shaft at the ujoint so I could tak the knuckle off. Ended up replacing the knuckle and hub together.
Living in the salt belt is great aint it?
 
Didnt wanna break the control arm
Hit it with your purse then :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:

Seriously though, I’ve definitely fought with them more than once or twice, the worst was mom’s Murano that’s thankfully sold and gone. My buddy was trying to help me out and take care of it and when he couldn’t get the bearing then I had to get after it and hammer size started escalating quickly. I swear sometimes rust and corrosion holds as good as welding…
 
Hit it with your purse then :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:

Seriously though, I’ve definitely fought with them more than once or twice, the worst was mom’s Murano that’s thankfully sold and gone. My buddy was trying to help me out and take care of it and when he couldn’t get the bearing then I had to get after it and hammer size started escalating quickly. I swear sometimes rust and corrosion holds as good as welding…
Probably better honestly.

I started with my shorthandle 4lb....after that proved worthless i got out i think an 8lb long handle....giving it wood chopping swings....knicked the fender...oops.

I never beat something so hard in my life. Even the spindles on my B2 came off eaiser.
 
Probably better honestly.

I started with my shorthandle 4lb....after that proved worthless i got out i think an 8lb long handle....giving it wood chopping swings....knicked the fender...oops.

I never beat something so hard in my life. Even the spindles on my B2 came off eaiser.
I have everything from a 6 ounce ball pein up to a 20# sledge. When it comes to sledges I have a 3# ball pein, 3# cross pein, 4# short handle, 8#, 10#, 12#, 16# and 20#. I’ve done a bit of concrete demo over the years and learned to be pretty good with a 12#
 

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