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More Bronco hear say.


Yup...old school reliability is definitely a thing.....

.kingpin 60...check.

Captain cave pig multi fuel engine..that runs at any angle...and can run with no electrical at all....check.

More then one way to start engine....check.

4l80.......this ..is the previously undisputed heavyweight king of transmissions.....even stronger then any of the manuals...and I still manage to break them with dumb as a hammer 120 hp engine.....check.


In a failed transmission computer situation I can manually shift it still.....so redundancy to captain cave pig level....check.



That is what I drive.....no AC....no radio....manual windows and t case and lockouts......when I am not in my shop truck.....

I can and do fearlessly run 44 inch tires on it....or 32s... Sometimes in the same day.


And the new bronco will whoop it's ass in modern off roading.

Sure...the bronco won't haul or hold what my pick up or a 78 bronco does...but it will definitely out perform it off road.


As to off roading.....your dreaming...


What we do now....those back in the day can only dream about....because it would be fantasy. I can drive over 5 foot tall obstacles...


A 79 bronco is awesome....very capable...but will not go where a modern bronco will...unless the modern bronco is dragging it.

The 351 m is very complicated to keep alive.... It is very buildable and capable but you have to know what the fawk you are doing

And it requires propane or fuel injection to even think about venturing where I go ...and a very expensive or thought out oiling system. The timing of the journals and sump are unforgiving of starvation.


I know this.....I have built or assisted builds that can run the jungle or the tank trap and learned from those that do it.

Not opinion. It is what it is.

Mr Bobby, I believe we should plan a YouTube video to showcase the eras! Can you wait about 3 mos (minimum), Rocko isn’t estimated to be delivered until 5/31.
 
Sorry, I still hate unit wheel bearings.

Yeah if you dunk them they need attention... but when you get done you know what you have.

Unit wheel bearing dies, takes the abs sensor with it and all the goat modes go out the window. Depending on model it can outright kill the 4wd too.

@Mrs. Eighty Five actually got stuck once last year because of that. With a abs fault it wouldn't engage the AWD.

Easy fix, just have to pluck a new bearing off the nearest bearing tree and press it in the loose knuckle with the shop press everybody carries in their back pocket.

Bronco has half as many as an Explorer tho.
 
Sorry, I still hate unit wheel bearings.

Yeah if you dunk them they need attention... but when you get done you know what you have.

Unit wheel bearing dies, takes the abs sensor with it and all the goat modes go out the window. Depending on model it can outright kill the 4wd too.

@Mrs. Eighty Five actually got stuck once last year because of that. With a abs fault it wouldn't engage the AWD.

Easy fix, just have to pluck a new bearing off the nearest bearing tree and press it in the loose knuckle with the shop press everybody carries in their back pocket.

Bronco has half as many as an Explorer tho.

I can swap out a SD60 unit bearing with a few sockets in about 30 minutes in a parking lot. Once the wheel, brakes, and hub bolts are removed... you wedge a socket between the bearing and the inner C, start the truck and use the steering to force it out.
Clean up the rust, and the new one just slides in.
 
That's just it....he dont know that the
Ford kingpin knuckles are the weakest....

He don't know that I actually have increased maintenance from constant inspection after flogging with the 42s....because they are weak and crack...

He don't know that I have way more maintenance then a current SD axle every time I soak it I have to repack...

.the time to tear down and maintain a modern axle is a fraction of what I do ..


But I don't mind it.


I know he don't know shit about radical wheeling with a m engine....because they need very specific work to do the job...

But given that time and attention. They are monsters....huge power.

So there is that. And no carb anymore and dis ignition is even better.


To knock this current crop of broncos based on past performance is pure ignorance.
A 2150 will run on enough angle to the point youre about to have to worry about oil starvation. One of the best off road factory carbs ever.

Secondly the M does just fine in stock form. Barn burner? No. But the 400 espicially makes good torque and is more then capable of turning 35's with stockish gearing.

Ive never claimed to know what you know, or built what you built.....but i think alot of the things you, and others state about this new shit is grossly overstated.

Wouldnt suprise me if ford has their fingers in it. But whatever.
 
I can swap out a SD60 unit bearing with a few sockets in about 30 minutes in a parking lot. Once the wheel, brakes, and hub bolts are removed... you wedge a socket between the bearing and the inner C, start the truck and use the steering to force it out.
Clean up the rust, and the new one just slides in.

Most new smaller ones (new Ranger and Bronco included) are pressed into the knuckle. So you gotta pull the knuckle and play with that

My F150 is bolt on, it isn't bad to change aside from the pain of buying one.
 
Ive never claimed to know what you know, or built what you built.....but i think alot of the things you, and others state about this new shit is grossly overstated.

Wouldnt suprise me if ford has their fingers in it. But whatever.
What exactly are you suggesting?
 
A 2150 will run on enough angle to the point youre about to have to worry about oil starvation. One of the best off road factory carbs ever.

Secondly the M does just fine in stock form. Barn burner? No. But the 400 espicially makes good torque and is more then capable of turning 35's with stockish gearing.

Ive never claimed to know what you know, or built what you built.....but i think alot of the things you, and others state about this new shit is grossly overstated.

Wouldnt suprise me if ford has their fingers in it. But whatever.


Run...sure..it will run. ...not that simple....


It is run...and apply usable power.

Under carbing...and spring loading the floats with an extended air horn works to an extent.

The terrain we are talking about..

It will not power a 351 m where these trucks go...

You will power out. If you push it ...you will roll the bearings out of it.

It will run sure....but as soon as you load it with the steering pump it stalls ....and stalls and stalls....until it don't start any more....or you are winched out.

Jeeps with 1 bbls do great.

Sweet.. there is a do all. ...tiny 2bbl or 1 bbls cruising out to Moab.....

At least you won't get any speeding tickets.
 
Most new smaller ones (new Ranger and Bronco included) are pressed into the knuckle. So you gotta pull the knuckle and play with that

My F150 is bolt on, it isn't bad to change aside from the pain of buying one.
I know... they’re stupid.
 
Most new smaller ones (new Ranger and Bronco included) are pressed into the knuckle. So you gotta pull the knuckle and play with that

My F150 is bolt on, it isn't bad to change aside from the pain of buying one.

I like the setup in the 2011. While it costs more, it’s much easier to change than a pressed in bearing that goes directly into the knuckle.

I got to play with that on the CR-Vs. Not fun since there wasn’t flat surface on the knuckle to securely press the new bearing back in. The sketch was strong with that task. I got it done after a bearing in the freezer session.
 
I like the setup in the 2011. While it costs more, it’s much easier to change than a pressed in bearing that goes directly into the knuckle.

I got to play with that on the CR-Vs. Not fun since there wasn’t flat surface on the knuckle to securely press the new bearing back in. The sketch was strong with that task. I got it done after a bearing in the freezer session.

That’s the worst part about some of these style... it’s almost impossible to find a flat spot to press against. I made a setup with chains and a bottle jack. You chain the knuckle down and use the jack to press the hub out.
 
Not Breaking the magnet for the abs on some of them is the hard part...like the units on sploders
 
You dont really see people hardcore offroading kingpin axles much anymore.
I can swap out a SD60 unit bearing with a few sockets in about 30 minutes in a parking lot. Once the wheel, brakes, and hub bolts are removed... you wedge a socket between the bearing and the inner C, start the truck and use the steering to force it out.
Clean up the rust, and the new one just slides in.

There are very very nice aftermarket ones that wont care about whatever you do to them as well. I hear great things about the Kryptonite ones, made in the usa lifetime warranty, all that jazz

If i have to upgrade my current axles i'd be tempted to go to 14 bolts f/r over an upgraded SD 60, but what I consider offroading and what rusty pictures offroading are probably two very different things and I'll spend money for reliability and abusability
 
You dont really see people hardcore offroading kingpin axles much anymore.


There are very very nice aftermarket ones that wont care about whatever you do to them as well. I hear great things about the Kryptonite ones, made in the usa lifetime warranty, all that jazz

If i have to upgrade my current axles i'd be tempted to go to 14 bolts f/r over an upgraded SD 60, but what I consider offroading and what rusty pictures offroading are probably two very different things and I'll spend money for reliability and abusability
You can afford that... the admins make more than us moderators. ;missingteeth;
 

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