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mod+boost ?????


4x4fun

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
1,433
City
delwhere
Vehicle Year
2011
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Automatic
what modds work with boost? like port and polish, pullies, rockers ect>
 
Most all mods that work for a na engine will work with a supercharger with the exception of cams with lots of duration.:)shady
 
underdrive pulleys do help. just be careful underdriving your water pump on a hot-running boosted application.
 
are thoes kinda mods worth the money if your going to boost something.
im really looking for reliableity and the more i add the more can go wrong.

so if i boost it and get 75 horses is $200-$400 worth another 10 horses and the possibility/ aggravation.
 
I didn't see you mention an intercooler. That would be my #1 priority if it was mine. There are just too many advatages to an intercooler to pass up.
It will lower intake temperatures a whole lot which leads to several benefits. You can safely add more boost, the temperature is lower in the combustion chamber which lessens the chances of pre-ignition, and your radiator will not have to work as hard without one.

The bottom line is an intercooler = reliability. And for goodness sake please make sure your supercharger is getting cool air to begin with and not hot air from next to the engine. That' all I got to say about that. :icon_thumby:
 
at first i was skeptical about underdriving myself, then i seen one operating fine w/ the proper waterpump and alternator overdrive pulleys. personally if im going to spend the money to put a super/turbo i would go ahead and build the rest of the motor up and open everything up to make the most out of the install. but if you just want some extra free (turbo) ponies id do the other mods first then intall the boost. the throttlebody, intake mods underdriving and 1.7 rockers would be high on my list of things to do b4 i put the boost on, especially since they are cheap/easy to do.
 
:badidea: I overlooked something from earlier. Porting your heads,a cam with a lot of rise and duration, and larger valves will actually work AGAINST the turbo. The turbo will be trying to fill up the combustion chamber with a lot of force and that same force will find its way out through the exhaust valve gone and wasted(in that moment of time when both valves are open at the same time). Larger valves and and higher lift only adds to that problem. So usually the stock configurations that most motors have will be just fine. Naturally aspirated and forced induction engines have two entirely different approaches to making horsepower. So what may work for one may not work for the other.
 
:badidea: I overlooked something from earlier. Porting your heads,a cam with a lot of rise and duration, and larger valves will actually work AGAINST the turbo. The turbo will be trying to fill up the combustion chamber with a lot of force and that same force will find its way out through the exhaust valve gone and wasted(in that moment of time when both valves are open at the same time). Larger valves and and higher lift only adds to that problem. So usually the stock configurations that most motors have will be just fine. Naturally aspirated and forced induction engines have two entirely different approaches to making horsepower. So what may work for one may not work for the other.

if the cam is designed for turbo you can port the piss and lift a valvetrain in an engine as much as you want, just have to reduce the duration and overlap to compensate. i will be porting/lifting/and custom cam in my turbo build, this way i get as much a/f charge into the engine as possible during boost while relieving the pressure built in the ports and also to get extra charge/flow in my engine to help spool the turbo faster.
 
:badidea: I overlooked something from earlier. Porting your heads......and larger valves will actually work AGAINST the turbo...

You were right about a cam with a lot of overlap, but porting and larger valves are a very good thing to do with a turbo engine. For instance, my excessively ported, big-valve 2.3 makes as much horsepower and torque at 16 PSI as a stock 2.3 would take about 20 psi to make. Obviously only running 16 psi to make the same power is better because you don't have nearly the risk of piston-destroying detonation. Like any pump, the compressor on a turbocharger works on a pump curve, which means flow rate and pump head are functions of each other. If you make the flow path easier to push air through (porting and larger valves), the turbo doesn't need to develope as much pressure to push the same flow rate of air.

So airflow mods work well with forced induction. High overlap cams don't. High lift cams work like any other air flow mod and do help. The problem is finding a cam that offers high lift without much overlap. Fortunatly, since the 2.3 is such a popular engine to turbocharge, there are literally dozens of different cams available from many vendors that offer just that: high lift without excessive overlap.
 
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a underdrive pully with a supercharger hurt the power gain...it slows the charger down
 
thats correct blown they do hurt a super engine but not a turbo motor that is running off the exhaust, a freed up crank that revs quicker and spools the turbo faster wouldnt hurt at all. on a super tho that is belt driven its def not worth doing cuz your changing the pulley ratio, unless you changed the super pulley (overdrived the super) you wouldnt make as much boost. supers take some power to make power tho, and porting etc w/ the exception of a cam wouldnt hurt as this would help the engine overcome the added stress at lower rpm to help pull the super.
 
he never said a turbo motor he said boosted, thus my post
 
thomas knight..NO NO NO stay away very far away. give you money to the homeless first..
very bad record
 

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