Miter saw advise, DeWalt DW705 vs DW706

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I bought a used industrial router table and a new power feed for making tongue and groove. The table came with several bits that added up to more than the cost of the machine itself. Iirc i paid $750 for the table and $1,200 for the power feed. Paid for itself the first job matching siding on a 1905 house.

 

[don4331]

On a slightly related note.

What do you guys use for cutting tongue and groove?

I've been using a cheap Ryobi table saw I picked up, but the arbor is too small for a dado blade so I need to make multiple passes and then use a chisel to clear it out. The throat plate is pretty flimsy too so the cut depth is all over the place at the end of the board.

I'm thinking, build a better throat plate and get a better chisel. I don't have a router, may need one in the future for making trim pieces, but not at the moment.

Had the same issue with Sear's table saw, so turned a spacer on the lathe - actually 3 for 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4", and countersunk the outboard washer 1/8" allowing all the intermediate widths.

I have a template for the throat plate, and recut new ones as required from some good flat hardwood; I believe I tapped the table for extra screws, both to secure the template and to aid in leveling.

T&G is cut with the inverted router on the table saw extension table. I have 3 routers. The Sears plunge that weight 50 lbs, but spins the big, fancy profile bits effortlessly, the Dewalt with 2 bases - one being permanently mounted in the table saw, and the 3rd is an adapter for the dremel tool from the pre-drywall cutter tool days.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

+1 on router for tongue and groove.

Most of the table saws at our mill have Biesemeyer fences.