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minor accident, bent lf ttb, fix or sas?


racsan

Well-Known Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
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Joined
Aug 17, 2007
Messages
5,502
City
central ohio
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
235/70/16
My credo
the grey-t escape
well, like the title says, my truck (with a new driver) went off road in a bad way, hit a ditch and bent the drivers side ttb between the diff & the knuckle, left wheel is turned outward, diff leaking oil, clutch fluid gone (not sure how, but its because of the wreck) body is fine, frame might be tweaked some. im wondering what road i should pursue. just replace the drivers side axle beam or go with a jeep axle & do a sas. my truck is almost all highway useage. how hard is it to go with a soilid axle? so much for teaching my daughter how to drive a manual trans.
 
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Not to comment on your parenting or your grammar, but in this particular case it may not be particularly prudent to abbreviate "standard".


Just sayin'.




Anyway, I'd get a whole new JY axle. It will be less work in the long run, and if the beam is bent and the diff is leaking, you don't know what else may be damaged. It is possible the chuck housing is cracked at this point. But for a mostly highway truck, I wouldn't go to the trouble of and SAS.
 
D35 ttb. Easy. Bolt in. Make sure to have matching gears when you're finished.
 
gen1 Explorer axles are cheap..........

I don't want my daughters to have an STD shift.........
 
Well if you use the truck mainly on the highway, then you should just replace the ttb (d35 swap is a good idea)
 
fixed the "std shift" part of my post, didnt even think of that. ha ha. yeah, im leaning towards just changing out the drivers side ttb arm.
 
If you think the frame is bent, I would check into that before I spent any more money on it.
 
D35 ttb. Easy. Bolt in. Make sure to have matching gears when you're finished.

Well if you use the truck mainly on the highway, then you should just replace the ttb (d35 swap is a good idea)

Given that his truck is a 93 with a 4.0, shouldn't it already have the D35?
 
Idk what and when the hybrids were offered... So I was just referring to make sure you get a real 35.
 
Idk what and when the hybrids were offered... So I was just referring to make sure you get a real 35.

Yeah, he does need to make sure he doesn't get a hybrid if he gets a whole axle.
 
yes it is the D35 ttb, as long as the tires can be aligned im not too worried about a slightly bent frame, the way its sitting could just be from the bent l.f. beam. found out why i lost the clutch, the fitting on the bottom of the clutch master cyl that the reservoir hose hooks up to was broken off when the tire smacked into the plastic wheelwell liner. got the old master out & bought a new one today. amazing that the master is $40 but a new line to the slave cyl is $90. was a pain to get out, i did later see where i could have removed it without the safty switch attached. one of the spot-welded nuts inside the cab broke loose when removing a bolt, seemed silly for ford to use loctite there, but they did. havent gottton the front diff out yet, lookd like it should fall right out once that last bolt is removed, but it looks like the whole beam must be out first to do that, already have both shafts pulled from the axle, l.f. knuckle is bent somehow too, with the spindle on, theres a small but noticeable gap at the front edge where the spindle meets the knuckle, spindle itself seems fine. granted this would be a perfect time to regear to a 4.10, but i think i'll just stay with the 3.73 ratio, im not even fully sure this truck will see the road again, going to look everything over before buying anymore parts, have to fix the clutch first so i can get it on a tow dolly to drag it out to my parents farm to work on it. ive bled the clutch once before when i did a trans replacement, wasnt fun then, dont expect it to be now. going to bench bleed the master first, thats for sure!
 
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....5 months later, replaced the drivers side beam with another one, could only find a hybrid, my differential wasnt cracked however, so swapped my original D35 back in, no leaks! frame is twisted somehow, theres more pressure on the l.r tire than the r.r. , when your on wet pavement it will spin the r.r. like its on ice. added 2 100 pound tractor weights to the r.r. corner to help with the issue, it did help, didnt quite solve the problem. also had to remove the stock lift block from the r.r. side so it would sit level. found someone who might have a connection to get it into a frame shop. and about a month ago i began hearing a noise when the clutch is depressed, throwout bearing (apparently) going bad. now losing fluid from clutch reservoir, assume its from the slave, cant see any fluid loss elsewhere, everything is new except that part, im wondering if the fingers on the pressure plate are "eating" through the bearing, causing the cyl to over-extend & then because of that lose fluid? took the next 2-1/2 days off to put in a new slave cyl/throwout bearing, and a clutch disc/pressure plate.
 

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