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Mechanic quoting 300+ for Water Pump Install on my 1994


The_Ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
96
City
So Cal
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hey there guys, as you may know I am new here, but I have a question.

I'm thinking this is BS, the local Pep boys is quoting me $335 to install my water pump.

They said 3.5 HRs not including parts.

I think it's total BS.

The girlfriend doesn't want me doing it cos she doesn't trust me to do it.

Here's the instructions I got, tell me if I am missing anything...

There are some differences if the vehicle is a 1994 Ford Ranger with a 2.3L SOHC engine:

1) Drain coolant (save if clear or dispose of responsibly)

2) Loosen the fan shroud and hang it on the fan

3) Undo the 4 bolts that hold the fan onto the pulley (a ratcheting end wrench will help greatly)

4) Remove the fan and the shroud

5) Remove or at least loosen and push aside the timing belt cover.

If you remove the timing cover you must free up the electrical cables that run in front of it, remove the serpentine idler and the thermostat housing (be careful the thermostat is inside the housing) and the crank pulley (just remove the 4 bolts and tap it off). The cover will need to be moved up, toward the center, and then down and out - a lot of fussing that might not be absolutely necessary - phew! I removed all this because I didn't know there is also a hole in the bottom of the shaft collar were two holes in the water pump

Since you have gone to all this trouble you may want to inspect and perhaps replace the thermostat (you'll need a new thermostat gasket regardless) and the timing belt too.

6) Remove the water pump: There are 3 ea 15 mm bolts. The one at 6 O'clock is the short one ( approx 1-3/4") while the other two (10 & 2 O'clock) are approx 2" long. (Length measured from base of head to tip of thread)

7) Wiggle out the pump.

8) Clean the gasket seat(s)(scrape and then clean with acetone or similiar).

9) Install a new gasket(s) with rpv sealant and install the new pump (put new sealant on the bolt threads) and perform steps 1-5 in reverse order.

Let me know if this is right and whether or not it's something I should readily be able to do myself.
 
Well, how many people come on here trying to fix something, screwing it up and then being angry because someone here doesn't immediately point them down the correct path. You DO get something for your money when you take your truck somewhere. Doing it yourself does NOT mean it's going to get done right. The mechanic is going to take responsibility for the repair.

A waterpump is straightforward, but that doesn't mean it's easy. You ever remove a fan clutch? For someone that hasn't, that can be impossible. You are going to have to rent a tool, and that tool that you rent you either won't be strong enough to use or it will fold up in your hand when you use it. I have one that I had to buy two and weld them together side by side to actually be able to use it.

A waterpump is not a difficult replacement for someone with years of working on stuff--an hour maybe two. A newbie might take a weekend. Or maybe two weekends and end up having it towed to a shop. After 20-30 years of working on shit, you develop skill, dexterity and power in your hands and forearms that amaze people. People call me and tell me they can't get something and I show up and just turn it. Just like with gym muscles, the muscles to work on machinery have to be developed. An NFL defensive end couldn't reach his hands into some obscured area at a weird angle and turn a wrench harder than the 130# tatoo easel that will end up working on your truck.

Even if the hours seem inflated, you will spend much more on it. And if it's screwed up, YOU have to take it back apart. The mechanic is much more a capable.

SO I say--yes, do it yourself if you are inclined. No, they are not ripping you off. Yes, it will take you more than 3.5 hours the first time. No, you should not follow any instructions you pieced together on-line and Yes, you need the factory repair manual if you are going to make a habit of working on your own vehicle.
 
Well, let me rephrase slightly.

I'm by no means inexperienced with cars, but trucks (and fan clutches) are new to me.

What I was asking is more like, "Relative to other shops, is this a ripoff?"
It doesn't look all that complicated, in my estimation it looked more like an hour to an hour and a half to do it myself, but at this hour there's nowhere I can get parts from.

Anyways, I'll take the car to the shop tomorrow. I got a much better quote from a shop with a much better service department for $140.
 
$350 doesn't sound like a rip-off... Labor rates are high, mechanics gotta eat too... $140 is a steal though...
 
the 2.3 fan clutch comes off with the 4 bolts attaching it to the water pump, it's not one that threads onto the water pump...

this is about as straightforward as a water pump gets, the timing cover doesn't have to come off, it's the rear cover that is more in the way anyway...
 
How can I tell if the fan clutch is bad?

It seems to be good but just wanted to make sure lest the thing ruins another water pump.


EDIT:

Going outside to go check it for resistance and play front to back.

Edit 2:

Went outside, fan clutch has a fair amount of resistance but not solid. Like it had a brake. The fan clutch has no play front to rear or side to side.

-Ghost
 
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When I did my timing belt, I followed about the same instructions you noted, but I took the radiator out. I know of several people that left their radiator in when working on fans, A/C pumps and timing belts who wished they'd taken theirs out when that nut or bolt suddenly decided it was going to come free, or the wrench came off .. drip drip drip.
That said, I took my time, removed all hoses, cleaned up the steel pipes and painted them, and generally went over the cooling system. I did not change the pump, but ended up changing the thermostat housing, as I put a hole in it trying to pry it loose.
Don't be afraid of working on this stuff. No matter all the warnings issued, it is not rocket science. It is in fact, an art. You learn how to maneuver the tools to fit the application, how to apply the correct torque to be tight enough, but not too tight as to warp or bend things or strip threads. It sometimes is like doing a puzzle, and some things, such as alternator or power steering brackets ARE a puzzle, that has to go together in the correct order, or you take it apart and do it again.
FWIW, I would figure the labor hours at about 2.5, but think a pro could beat that time easily. So, $140 is not too bad a price given some of the shop rates I've seen.
Remember that mechanics may not want to work on a particular vehicle, for whatever reason, and will sometimes factor their dislike into the price. Or, they will attempt to quote a high price hoping you will bite...

tom
 
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dont use rtv sealant with the gasket i tried that and it leaked like a mofo.. i changed my water pump not having to touch the thermostat housing..and as for the timing belt cover i just yanked it off... 350$ no way do it yourself and save you some moola:icon_cheers:
 

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