They are awesome. A wristed housing basically removes all the inherent "flaws" from a factory style radius arm setup that's used in an offroad vehicle. Real simple design too. They also eliminate the possibility of breaking plug welds and twisting an axle tube (this happened to my 78-79 D44, BTW.)
Someone else on another forum mentioned that it cod do some nasty stuff to your tierod and steering because it allows them to twist independently of each other.
just built a lower track bar mount to improve my angles.
flex testing it to check to see if it still clears the diff.
it still clears but i wouldnt want to jump it like this or anything. so im thinking about welding a gusset between the upper track bar mount and the engine crossmember, has anyone else done this. i think kroussinoffroad bolted an arm with heim joints between the two on his old truck
recently changed my stock blinker/running lights to cheap $3 oval trailer blinkers from oriely's because the old ones were bulky and in the way of my plans for a stinger/cage build and my highlift mount that i will be working on next.
i did have mine braced to the engine x-member on the mazda only after repairing my frame due to highspeed whoops and torn frame. been running the explorer with only the 1/4" plated frame and havent had an issue YET and this is after a few "test" jumps.
on a side note i finally ate another set heim joints on my trac bar. They lasted just about a year so i'm VERY pleased with the ruff suff joints. since all others lived a considerably shorter life
no. I think the first brand i ran was aurora or somthing them FK's and QA1's then ordered some ruff stuffs along with other parts when i built the explorer
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