Manual locking hubs help!

[Vciferni]

Converted my automatic hubs to manual because the automatic locking hub nut kept backing off after doing the brakes and rotors. So I get the rugged ridge kit to convert it to manual. Double nut system is simple and should be no problems... i thought. So I followed all the advice I found online because the instructions are junk. I torqued the first nut then backed it off and then snugged it to the inch pounds it called for. Then I put the washer on that should keep it from spinning. When I went to torque the second nut which calls for 150ft it shears off the tab that sits in the spindle groove and they both spin together. I tried holding back the first nut while I tighten the second nut but I'm unsuccessful. Bought two kits already and can't keep the nuts from spinning together and seating off the washer tab. Help!!!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

What year Ranger?


Rugged Ridge are used on 1998 to 2000 Rangers only: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml
I think they did make them for earlier models just not common

Earlier hubs here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml

 

[4x4junkie]

Sounds like poorly made locking washers (there seems to be a number of them out there now).

You can try pushing the tab down into the spindle groove with your finger until the nut starts to grab and hold it (some have managed to make that work), but it's possible you might have to weld a small bit of metal onto the tab (making it longer) then use a Dremel tool or something to reshape it square again.

Few have reported issues with genuine Spicer pt#28068X washers & nuts, I think they still can be found on Ebay and/or maybe Amazon.

 

[Vciferni]

95 ranger. I think I'm gonna try to hold back the first nut with a spanner wrench. Shouldn't have to though. That's the whole point of that washer...

 

[Vciferni]

Welcome to TRS

What year Ranger?


Rugged Ridge are used on 1998 to 2000 Rangers only: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml
I think they did make them for earlier models just not common

Earlier hubs here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AVM_hub_swap.shtml

I added pictures. Pretty sure I'm using the right kit. Simple double nut system

 

[4x4junkie]

You got a junk set of washers.
Spicer 28068X washers are hardened steel, their tab won't be able to shear off like that.

 

[BlackBII]

Yep, junk washers.

I just went through this same issue on my Ranger using Dorman branded nuts and washers.

Spicer 28068X will work much better.

 

[Denisefwd93]

When we did ball joints seals etc, we also did new warn hubs. the lock nut situation kind of troubled me, but near as I can tell, the washers are the same for most of these aftermarket hubs, I did notice a couple times when we are very dry fitting everything that the little pin which is very shallow, could easily be missed with one of the holes, which Imo may lead to its spinning and also spinning of the inner nut.

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

 

[Denisefwd93]

When we did ball joints seals etc, we also did new warn hubs. the lock nut situation kind of troubled me, but near as I can tell, the washers are the same for most of these aftermarket hubs, I did notice a couple times when we were dry fitting everything that the little pin which is very shallow, could easily be missed with one of the holes, which Imo may lead to its spinning and also spinning of the inner nut.

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

I just realized something! if you are using the inner nut as the outer nut! It will spin the washer every time! It is very easy to make this mistake! The inner nut has a little pin that only pops into the washer Hole by about a 1/6" inch.

I just noticed the date of the last post so the problem they already been solved still learning how to use Tapatalk here

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

 

[Curious Hound]

The pin is very often broken and gone. But that shouldn't matter. The washer has a tab that must be engaged in the keyway on the spindle. That tab is what prevents the washer and nuts from turning when they are torqued together properly. I known I have had a washer whose tab barely engaged the keyway. I noticed the washer and inner nut begin to turn as I torqued the outer nut. After I squeezed the washer so the tab engaged the keyway better, everything worked the way it should.

Eric B

 

[Denisefwd93]

The pin is very often broken and gone. But that shouldn't matter. The washer has a tab that must be engaged in the keyway on the spindle. That tab is what prevents the washer and nuts from turning when they are torqued together properly. I known I have had a washer whose tab barely engaged the keyway. I noticed the washer and inner nut begin to turn as I torqued the outer nut. After I squeezed the washer so the tab engaged the keyway better, everything worked the way it should.

Eric B

Eric there is not a whole lot to that little tab I can see that it would easily shear off or stretch the washer around it.

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

 

[Curious Hound]

It would be nice if the tab was deeper. But with care, it works fine. I may actually have the off-brand "junk washers" that were referred to earlier in this thread. I got them at the junk yard with the Mile Marker manual hubs I pulled from another Ranger.

All I can say is "My nuts are tight every time I check them."
[emoji16]

Eric B

 

[BlackBII]

One thing to be cautious of when working on these spindle nuts is the type of socket you are using.

If using the type pictured here, the lip on the inside can flatten part of the small pin on the inner nut, making it easier to break off.