making a 4" a 6+" in hopes of gearing to 35's NEED CHEAP IDEAS!

[mason_411]

Right now my truck has 4" ttb drop brackets with 6" super flex coils (that droops to around 5" lift in front) and rear 4" blocks (i know "no bueno" but its cheap haha) on 33's with no gearing stock 4.0 and 5speed, but i am not exactly happy with my truck the way it is right now - under powered, bad fuel mileage, only ok off road, boarderline terrible on (least of my worries) - ive always wanted it on atleast 35's but im trying to save with a diesel. with my financial situation i can probably have a diesel by winter but i dont want to drive my truck the way it is for that long...

That all being said, i need new tires, BAD! and as ive been looking ive noticed 35's are much cheaper and easier to get for a 15" rim than 33's (thanks to jeeps coming stock with 17's and 33's now ) my three options are to go up 2" in suspension (because axle swap and a whole new higher kit is too expensive... this is all on a STRICT budget), or 3" up in body to fit the 35's, or say f&#k it and keep my tiny ranger and save...

Ethier way, ill be spending about $500 MAX on tires/wheels but with 35's comes gears so there's about another $600... thats for brand new G2's but if i can snag some used ones itll be much cheaper (by the way im thinking 4.56's or 4.88's)...

Raising 2" in suspension will run me the following:
Front spacers - $50
rear shackles - $30
Shocks - $150
Brake lines - $120

3" body lift is $200...

im very anti body lift because it doesnt really add any actual performance just looks good, but my wallet would much rather go the body lift route haha

actually i guess what im saying is i want my power, fueal mileage, highway ability and everything back which i will gain through gearing, but i personally think gearing my truck on 33's would be pointless and ive always wanted 35's so why not?

It all needs to be done cheaply (around the $1000 to $1500 range) so im looking for ways to make my (esseintially 4" lift) fit 35's as cheaply as possible give me some info! like past experices, options, ideas, cheap plans etc. haha im perfectly fine with "butching" shit together so any ideas no matter how redneckish are helpful! haha

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Put 35's on anyways and cut the fenders = free and doesn't make it any more top heavy.

As for gears....4.88 or 5.13's.

 

[kryptonitecb]

Put 35's on anyways and cut the fenders = free and doesn't make it any more top heavy.

As for gears....4.88 or 5.13's.

X2

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[4.0B2]

x3!
35's cut and 4.88's AT LEAST. Don't be scared of gear!

 

[mason_411]

i had thought about that for a while but i decided not to... i know that sounds backwards cause im saying how i want this done cheap haha but i would really like to actually go higher with her and add the extra suspension travel. i would definitely consider doing that and going higher though... the top heavy thing isnt too big of a deal to me and cutting the flares would gain more travel also... i like the idea.

and i was leaning twards 4.88's, ill need to grind on the ring gear to fit them in my 8.8 and d35 though right? i dont know about 5.13's though... she spends 80% of her life on road and i dont want to be at high rpms for highway driving ya know?... would 5.13's even fit in the 8.8?

 

[Mudstomper99]

Cheap just do body lift if you don't want to spend a ton of money or cut fenders

 

[mason_411]

im not exactly opposed to cutting i actual like the idea, i just dont want to leave it at that. like i said i do want it up higher so ill probably cut and lift it haha. i would just have to do it cleanly.

and do you have a body lift mudstompper? Ive never had one or been in a rbv with one... id be interested in finding out more on how they preform, does it really help with anything? ive always kinda been against the idea, seems pointless to me... but it is cheap.

 

[Surrey]

Do a body lift.

They are not just for show, by lifting the body you allow for larger tires and a higher maximum on suspension travel without lifting the entire drivetrain, which allows you to keep a lower center of gravity while still fitting bigger tires.

 

[kryptonitecb]

Body lift moves the cab weight up which makes for a higher COG. Rangers don't have much up travel to begin with so a suspension lift would be the best for up travel.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[Surrey]

Body lift moves the cab weight up which makes for a higher COG. Rangers don't have much up travel to begin with so a suspension lift would be the best for up travel.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

Obviously any lift raises center of gravity, my point was it doesn't raise it as much as a suspension lift does, due to not raising the driveline or frame. The bigger tires will also raise COG.

I have no idea how well his truck flexes now, as that is a function of coils, shocks, bump stops, fenders, ect. but depending on what his limiting factors are now, some F250 shock mounts and a body lift could potentially give quite a bit. if he can fit 33x12.50s now without any rubbing, with a 3" body lift it should fit 35x12.50 just as well, if not better. If he starts giving it more uptravel in the process, then he might have to trim fenders or something too.

 

[mason_411]

I have no idea how well his truck flexes now, as that is a function of coils, shocks, bump stops, fenders, ect. but depending on what his limiting factors are now, some F250 shock mounts and a body lift could potentially give quite a bit... If he starts giving it more uptravel in the process, then he might have to trim fenders or something too.

as of now, it actually flexes surpringly good... i kind of was shocked especially with the tuck i have in the rear with the 33's. heres a few pics but this is with my front sway bars still connected so the front isnt flexing much...









Just for some aspect the ledge is about 2 feet tall where the front tire is. definitely could have gone higher but there was a pole.

 

[4x4junkie]

Another vote for the body lift.

Something that should be realized is that while a body lift doesn't increase suspension performance directly, it does avoid a number of other hassles that would otherwise come with taller suspension lifts (such as with the steering, as some of you should already know).
It was partly for this reason I chose to run a combined suspension & body lift on mine rather than an all-suspension lift.

Also agreed, 4.88 or 5.13 gears (4.88 if you like to break rural speed limits, but either should be fine <70 MPH).