Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
Touring23
Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 14
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Transmission
- Manual
Moderators, please feel free to add this to the tech library. I don't have much room on my server to host these pix, but I can leave them up for a couple of days.
Here is new information about the M5R1 speedometer gears.
Everyone all over the web talks about the driven gear:
pic 1
But there is also a drive gear which never gets mentioned:
pic 2
The part numbers for the M5R1 speedometer drive gear are
E8TZ-17285-A 6 teeth Purple
E8TZ-17285-B 7 teeth White
E8TZ-17285-C 8 teeth Green
AFAIK, these part numbers have never been mentioned before in the context of the Ranger's M5R1. I discovered it by researching the M5R2, the sister transmission used in full-size pickups, Broncos, and some Thunderbirds. Here is the web site that motivated me to try it:
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/m5r2_rebuild/M5R2Main-Menu.html
A local transmission shop sold me a used speedo drive gear for an F-150 over the telephone for $5 plus shipping.
You will have to figure out which speedo gears you need for your combination. Mine was easy, I had access to a radar on a stationary trailer; pop in a gear, drive by the radar, note the difference. Lather, rinse, and repeat. Another way would be to drive on the interstate and compare the odometer against mileage markers. Alternatively, you could try the equation:
Driven gear teeth=(drive gear teeth)*(diffy ratio)*(tire revs per mile) / 1000
Driven gears can range from 16-21. If you're beyond that range, the speedo drive gear needs to be changed.
It's easy to install the drive gear:
Safe the truck with chocks and parking brakes, et cetera.
Drop the driveshaft:
pic 3
Then support the transmission (A), remove the crossmember (B), drain the tranny fluid (C), remove the speedo cable (D), and finally the eight(?) bolts (E) holding the tail housing.
pic 4
In that picture you can also just make out the clutch bleed screw (F), clutch line (G), and clutch inspection cover (H).
There will be extra steps involved if you have a long bed or 4x4; mine is a 1993 4x2 fleetside.
Remove the tail housing:
pic 5
pic 6
This is what's inside:
pic 7
Slide the rubber seal off and then remove the circlip. Now be careful not to lose the steel ball under the speedo drive gear:
pic 8
And notice the orientation of the speedo drive gear on the shaft; it has to go on this way so that the steel ball will engage one of the three holes in the gear.
Here is my new $5 gear installed:
pic 9
If you want to, now is the time to replace the infamous three leaky rubber plugs:
pic 10
When installing the tail housing, apply a line of silicone:
pic 11
Torques are:
Tail housing to tranny: 24-34 ft-lbs
Drain Plug: 29-43
Crossmember: 65-85
Small T-30 Torx on shift cover: 12-16
Driveshaft: 70-95
Refill the tranny with clean Mercon, spec is 5.6 pints (2.65 liters). I dunno who came up with "5.6 pints"; in practical terms it means buy 3 quarts and appreciate the Metric System:
pic 12
Here is new information about the M5R1 speedometer gears.
Everyone all over the web talks about the driven gear:
pic 1
But there is also a drive gear which never gets mentioned:
pic 2
The part numbers for the M5R1 speedometer drive gear are
E8TZ-17285-A 6 teeth Purple
E8TZ-17285-B 7 teeth White
E8TZ-17285-C 8 teeth Green
AFAIK, these part numbers have never been mentioned before in the context of the Ranger's M5R1. I discovered it by researching the M5R2, the sister transmission used in full-size pickups, Broncos, and some Thunderbirds. Here is the web site that motivated me to try it:
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/m5r2_rebuild/M5R2Main-Menu.html
A local transmission shop sold me a used speedo drive gear for an F-150 over the telephone for $5 plus shipping.
You will have to figure out which speedo gears you need for your combination. Mine was easy, I had access to a radar on a stationary trailer; pop in a gear, drive by the radar, note the difference. Lather, rinse, and repeat. Another way would be to drive on the interstate and compare the odometer against mileage markers. Alternatively, you could try the equation:
Driven gear teeth=(drive gear teeth)*(diffy ratio)*(tire revs per mile) / 1000
Driven gears can range from 16-21. If you're beyond that range, the speedo drive gear needs to be changed.
It's easy to install the drive gear:
Safe the truck with chocks and parking brakes, et cetera.
Drop the driveshaft:
pic 3
Then support the transmission (A), remove the crossmember (B), drain the tranny fluid (C), remove the speedo cable (D), and finally the eight(?) bolts (E) holding the tail housing.
pic 4
In that picture you can also just make out the clutch bleed screw (F), clutch line (G), and clutch inspection cover (H).
There will be extra steps involved if you have a long bed or 4x4; mine is a 1993 4x2 fleetside.
Remove the tail housing:
pic 5
pic 6
This is what's inside:
pic 7
Slide the rubber seal off and then remove the circlip. Now be careful not to lose the steel ball under the speedo drive gear:
pic 8
And notice the orientation of the speedo drive gear on the shaft; it has to go on this way so that the steel ball will engage one of the three holes in the gear.
Here is my new $5 gear installed:
pic 9
If you want to, now is the time to replace the infamous three leaky rubber plugs:
pic 10
When installing the tail housing, apply a line of silicone:
pic 11
Torques are:
Tail housing to tranny: 24-34 ft-lbs
Drain Plug: 29-43
Crossmember: 65-85
Small T-30 Torx on shift cover: 12-16
Driveshaft: 70-95
Refill the tranny with clean Mercon, spec is 5.6 pints (2.65 liters). I dunno who came up with "5.6 pints"; in practical terms it means buy 3 quarts and appreciate the Metric System:
pic 12
Last edited:
