M50D-r1 variations discussion (not HD versions)

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Okay, I have one Ranger, '90 2.3l and I have a '96 Explorer 4.0.

I'm trying to think of a good way to be able to table test them under a decent load like it's actually in a truck. Like flywheel, clutch and stuff hooked to an electric motor. Kind of like a sim racing rig.

Electric over Hydraulic motor may yield better results since its easier to measure pressure translated to torque via fluid power.

Not a hard bench rig to build. Small pump on a 110v motor, and method of applying resistance to output shaft.

 

[Shran]

Are you replacing the rear bearing retainer with the "upgraded" steel one? I'm curious how that will hold up long term. One of my rebuilds had a bearing retainer failure less than 3000 miles in and the bearing race had started to wear into it. I have seen this damage on a lot of transmissions that I've disassembled. I'm kind of wondering if the input shims have something to do with it, IE if it's shimmed too loose then the race can move around more than it should or something like that.

 

[AndrewM]

Are you replacing the rear bearing retainer with the "upgraded" steel one? I'm curious how that will hold up long term. One of my rebuilds had a bearing retainer failure less than 3000 miles in and the bearing race had started to wear into it. I have seen this damage on a lot of transmissions that I've disassembled. I'm kind of wondering if the input shims have something to do with it, IE if it's shimmed too loose then the race can move around more than it should or something like that.

I need to make a post in the correct forum, my newb ass didn't realize that this sub forum was for the newer Rangers.

The bearings I have been ordering for the front shaft from McMaster Carr. I never realized that the cage (retainer) being steel was an upgrade, for me it was cheaper to order from an industrial parts supplier than an auto parts supplier. I have come across one where it was just the retainer messed up and that's all what it was to fix it.

 

[Shran]

This is the bearing retainer I am talking about:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/286001372099

I'll move the thread to the appropriate place here in just a sec.

 

[AndrewM]

This is the bearing retainer I am talking about:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/286001372099

I'll move the thread to the appropriate place here in just a sec.

Oh that thing, sorry.

Okay, I've never ran into that piece being a problem. Since it's shims are on the front side, I tighten the front side last and make any adjustments there.

Off the top of my head theory, is that when there's too much thrusting slop us when that piece goes bad. Because I've had one that came in that had a lot of slop and I didn't change anything major. Just replaced the front and rear shaft bearings and the slop disappeared. It's an indicator tapered bearing failure and not a failure of itself. Making that piece out of steel just hides the problem for longer.

 

[Shran]

Yeah, that's my process too. Install the rear bearing retainer, countershaft, then drop the output shaft and gear stack in place and start taking measurements for shims in the front. Like the manual says to do.

I'm just not sure why I've seen some high mileage non rebuilt units come in with zero wear on the bearing retainer and a bunch of slop in the input shaft/front bearings. But mine that failed was set up by the book, had just a little slop in the front bearings and the bearing retainer got trashed. It's not something I can pin down on one specific cause. Bad bearings? set up too tight? too loose? Rhetorical questions of course but just weird.

Nice to have someone here to bounce ideas off by the way.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

That plate was pretty worn in my R2 when I tore it down.



Donar F-150 also had a gooseneck ball in the back...

 

[AndrewM]

Yeah, that's my process too. Install the rear bearing retainer, countershaft, then drop the output shaft and gear stack in place and start taking measurements for shims in the front. Like the manual says to do.

I'm just not sure why I've seen some high mileage non rebuilt units come in with zero wear on the bearing retainer and a bunch of slop in the input shaft/front bearings. But mine that failed was set up by the book, had just a little slop in the front bearings and the bearing retainer got trashed. It's not something I can pin down on one specific cause. Bad bearings? set up too tight? too loose? Rhetorical questions of course but just weird.

Nice to have someone here to bounce ideas off by the way.

I have some people ask me to change just one of gear ratios, I'm not experienced enough to know what all can be done. Because the counter shaft is one solid piece, so I can't just make 3rd gear bigger or lower (change the number of teeth). From my light research it shows the gear ratios are all the same from '88 to '11.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have some people ask me to change just one of gear ratios, I'm not experienced enough to know what all can be done. Because the counter shaft is one solid piece, so I can't just make 3rd gear bigger or lower (change the number of teeth). From my light research it shows the gear ratios are all the same from '88 to '11.

I think the 4.0 ones are geared differently

Ford Ranger Manual Transmissions - The Ranger Station

Guide to 1983-2011 Ford Ranger manual transmissions. Identify, maintain, and troubleshoot Mitsubishi, Mazda, and Toyo Koygo 4- & 5-speeds

www.therangerstation.com

It would be more involved than just swapping one gear, you would have to swap whatever that gear runs against as well. It looks like 1-3 are different so that would entail all the gears in the main cavity IIRC