Lug Key Identification

[drsvox]

Did a quick forum search and didn't find anything so posting here. I need help identifying a lug key (pic below); yes that's right, I didn't check before I bought. It's on a 2005 F150 5.4 4x4 if that helps identify.

I've called around a few places (including Ford) with no luck. I've also tried the 12-point socket and hammer method and am having no success with that.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

That looks easy with a dremel + cut off disk and a cold chisel.

I assume you have all ready tried the nooks of the cab/engine bay?

 

[adsm08]

Factory locking lug, made for Ford by McGaurd. You will have issues ordering one without the number.

There is a master kit out there that has all of the factory ones, but if you can find one it would be expensive.

I'd destroy the crap outta that thing and get regular ones.

 

[drsvox]

Thank you both for your replies.

D.F.: I have a dremel and compressor w/ cut off tools but I'm reluctant to use because I'm sure to donk it up. How do I come in with the cut?

Adsm08: good advice and I'm sure to take it; was heading down that path anyway after only three whacks with a sledge hammer.

 

[adsm08]

I would take the dremel and cut a good channel in it, then get an air chisel on it.

 

[drsvox]

Perfect, I have both. Thanks again. Very much!

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

You just need to cut a vertical slit (parallel to the stud) maybe 30% more is better then encourage rotation or splitting of the nut. No harm in touching the threads with a dremel but I wouldn't use an air hammer.

If you have tools, then a use once welded socket to nut is easier.

 

[adsm08]

You just need to cut a vertical slit (parallel to the stud) maybe 30% more is better then encourage rotation or splitting of the nut. No harm in touching the threads with a dremel but I wouldn't use an air hammer.

If you have tools, then a use once welded socket to nut is easier.

I guess I should have clarified the purpose of the air chisel. It is for turning the nut, not cracking it. Once you get it started moving vice grips are nice for taking those things off.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've had success with putting a broken bolt extractor socket on them before.

Another possibility would be to weld a large nut on the end. Cheaper than throwing away sockets.


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[drsvox]

I guess I should have clarified the purpose of the air chisel. It is for turning the nut, not cracking it. Once you get it started moving vice grips are nice for taking those things off.

I was tracking along the same line as above; notch it at 2 or 3 o'clock, then air hammer ccw to loosen it.

I hadn't thought of welding an oversized nut, even though I've seen it done for bolt extraction. that said, i don't weld nor do i have access, apart from taking the truck in, which i will, as a last resort.

Thanks again all!

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

I still don't suggest an air hammer, especially in the beginning. In unseasoned/untrained hands I see that folding over threads and bending stuff. Garth in Wayne's World comes to mind when he picks up an air tool.

However in skilled hands I could see one unscrewing lugs with it, and also making carbon copies in triplicate, and adjusting braille letters at atms/drive troughs to vulgar suggestions.

Find your comfort zone.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A cold chisel and a heavy hammer work almost as quick as an air hammer.

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[4x4junkie]

I dealt with one that was on my spare tire by grinding two flat sides on it using an angle grinder, and then simply unscrewing it with an open-end wrench. Having a steel wheel should give you enough room to get at it with the grinder.

 

[Diesel Mechanic]

They make sockets to remove these. I had a key break for my 07 f150. The sockets have a spiral set of teeth that grab the lock nut and allow it to be removed. All the good wheel thrives use them. I got all 4 off without a mark to the stud or rim.


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