Lowering a 4wd?

[DeanMLFlame]

taking out the blocks was how i planned to do the rear. I had thought about custom front with QA1 coilovers(2 eyelet mounts). Put a thick and braced plate over the hole in the spring pocket. Custom mounts put it would cost a lot...Once again Capt Jay. Since you apparently can't read...Why Lower = Something different. I don't care if it's something you wouldn't drive. It's something i would like. Krazykracker is right. When we do get snow around here it gets somewhat deep plus I live in a Valley so i got a big hill to climb

 

[slammedxonair]

.yea he should be able to align his truck but he has a TTB truck though & i think if you took much more out of the bumpstops the diff would hit the crossmember if you hit a speed bump too hard i may be wrong though.

if it were me id take out the stock rear block & grab a set of junkyard 4cyl coils to see how it looked that way you wouldnt be outta much $

what does TTB mean?

 

[Ranger#1]

twin traction beam =4x4 twin i beam =2x4

 

[slammedxonair]

oh 4x4 term thats why I don't know it haha. But yea the belltech coils would be the way to go with the beams.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I always thought it would be cool to stick an Explorer AWD transfercase in a 4x4 Ranger and turn it into a street machine.

Just throwing that out there, I know a lot of rally cars are AWD.

 

[kunar]

I always thought it would be cool to stick an Explorer AWD transfercase in a 4x4 Ranger and turn it into a street machine.

Just throwing that out there, I know a lot of rally cars are AWD.

i wouldnt really like the thought of those axle shafts moving all the time... if they were cv's, then yeah, but not with u-joints...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

i wouldnt really like the thought of those axle shafts moving all the time... if they were cv's, then yeah, but not with u-joints...

U-joints are u-joints, same as the ones that run all the time on the rear driveshaft.

Back when I drove my Ranger full time I ran most of the winter with the hubs in and never had a problem with them.

 

[feellnfroggy]

i'm having a delema with myself. I would like to play in some mud, but i would also like to be able do 85+ on the freeway. So why not do 85 on the way to some old dirt roads then do some rally racing in the mountains. Plus i've put to much money into this truck to go and buy a 2wd.

Your lift isnt so much the problem with stability as the tune of the lift is. If you have 3inches BL and 6 in the suspension, It "can" still be a stable ride. Having the properly sized and tunes (by tuned I mean properly matched front and rear )swaybars will really help as well as proper spring rates and shocks.( no blocks, washers, pucks, or 10 dollar discount spring clamps/spacers.) Something like a Custom Watts link for your lifted truck will also help. It will totally defeat any flex, but point being you can have lift and stability. Ive seen the F250's with 8+inches doing 90 down the freeway.

Another hinderance to higher speeds is tire size, whether or not your lifted tire size and compound will affect your fuel efficiency and spped capabilities.
Having a lower truck will help aerodynamically shield the larger tires. A perfect example is the humvees, they run like 38's and we run 80-90 MPH in the newer ones down the MSR (main supply routes) Keep in mind these trucks weigh in at 20k+. (not convoys, only the escort missions where the contractors dont wanna be out there anymore than we do.LOL) Ive considered the lowerd 4x4 as well.


NOw the controversy, the application your referring too RallyRacing. I dont believe that 4x4 is what you need. 4WD is more suiting, where your transfer case has a differential for torque splitting front to rear. (similar to the Auto4WD of the newer expe's and epxloders. The 1354's I dont think will hold up to 60+ on a gravel road full time.

Now since mazda makes the m50d I wonder if there is a way to adapt the Mazdaspeed6 AWD system to the 4.0 ranger. That would be sweet.

 

[Chevelle Kid]

I always thought it would be cool to stick an Explorer AWD transfercase in a 4x4 Ranger and turn it into a street machine.

Just throwing that out there, I know a lot of rally cars are AWD.

That would be the way to go. I know a guy with a AWD '55 Chevy. Looks stock and I never would have questioned it or even known it was anything other than a street car if he didn't have some AWD emblems on it.

Saleen Explorers were AWD and people thought they were the schizz. Do it. Be diffrent mofo!!

 

[slammedxonair]

ummmm AWD, ecoboost motor with bigger turbos, in a quad cab ranger thats bagged and body dropped, with front and rear swar bars, now that would be bad ass!

 

[DeanMLFlame]

feellnfroggy!

you made some good points. One thing though is the running 60+ in 4wd...i wouldn't be doing that...only in RWD. I'd only use 4wd when there's snow or i'm towing someone in the dirt or whatever.

 

[Z3CHYD]

i thought about doing this at one time...but i wanted 31's so i didnt
lol sorry can help you much.....read my sig lol

 

[kunar]

U-joints are u-joints, same as the ones that run all the time on the rear driveshaft.

Back when I drove my Ranger full time I ran most of the winter with the hubs in and never had a problem with them.

3* working angle in a drive shaft u-joint is a big difference from what your axle shaft u-joints see with your steering at full lock. yeah, i know... remember they are there and take it easy when you have the wheel cranked... i still wouldnt like it all the time. the only other option would be to limit your max steering angle and i dont like that any better. making a cv joint work in that application would be the way to go.

 

[dogboy]

feellnfroggy, I want to correct you on some terminology. You refer to what the newer Explorers have as "4wd" as opposed to "4x4". 4x4 and 4wd are the same exact thing. Both have a conventional t-case with no center diff, like all Rangers, and SHOULD NOT be driven on dry, hard surfaces. "AWD" (all wheel drive) on the other hand, is what some newer Explorers have. AWD's have the center diff you mentioned, and you can drive them all day with all 4 wheels being powered.

3* working angle in a drive shaft u-joint is a big difference from what your axle shaft u-joints see with your steering at full lock. yeah, i know... remember they are there and take it easy when you have the wheel cranked... i still wouldnt like it all the time. the only other option would be to limit your max steering angle and i dont like that any better. making a cv joint work in that application would be the way to go.

But, if you have the steering at full lock, I sure as hell hope you are not going fast... sharper angles at lower speeds is just fine (to an extent, I know).


But on the lowing a 4wd thing, it makes perfect sense to me, and I've considered it. I just don't have a Ranger that I want to do that to (I'm not lowing my wheeler).
It is an awesome way to get more traction when you need it (like snow, or if you really want to accelerate fast), while still maintaining the street look.
I say go for it!!

 

[feellnfroggy]

feellnfroggy, I want to correct you on some terminology. You refer to what the newer Explorers have as "4wd" as opposed to "4x4". 4x4 and 4wd are the same exact thing. Both have a conventional t-case with no center diff, like all Rangers, and SHOULD NOT be driven on dry, hard surfaces. "AWD" (all wheel drive) on the other hand, is what some newer Explorers have. AWD's have the center diff you mentioned, and you can drive them all day with all 4 wheels being powered.

Thanks I was sure feelling dumb not having the right terms in there. And the explorers (just like the expeditions) are not AWD. They are 4auto, Meaning they switch into 4x4 mode when neccessary, as in loss of traction. A gift of the electronic transfer case shifting. AWD is fulltime like the subaru, most have torque splitting features which like you said allow on road driving. They are 4auto, Meaning they switch into 4x4 mode when neccessary, as in loss of traction. A gift of the electronic transfer case shifting. 4x4 is selectable, its 50/50 torque split, most of the time, and is also fully streetable assuming you have proper tire diameters and gearing.(just not suggested)

Anyone can memorize actual terms, Its knowing the "real" difference that is important. And we are allowed to be wrong once in awhile.