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Losing power with a/c on?


Toms01PSD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
3,276
Age
34
City
Sanford, NC
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Automatic
I fixed the freon leak I had at the back of the a/c compressor and filled it up and it feels good. Here's my problem, when I left the shop coming onto the road, I could hear my compressor cycling on/off while watching my RPM's drop and it's making the engine a lot more sluggish. When i'm cruising at 55 it doesn't cycle on/off and my RPM's don't jump up or down. However, when I give it some gas to climb a hill it starts cycling on/off again even if i'm at cruising speed to keep it at the speed limit. Is this common on 3.0s? I have never driven anything with this small of an engine that made that much of an impact. I have low compression on 1 cylinder but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. By the way, the RPM's drop about 200-250 each time it cycles. Any help is appreciated!
 
I made a minor addition to my 2.3 Ranger. I don't want the compressor running when I need to accelerate. I added a Stewart Warner Vaccuum switch and a relay to my AC system. The Vaccuum switch monitors engine vaccuum and at 9 inches of vaccuum or less it opens. The relay is wired in the AC coil power wire (the ground side,not the 12-volt side), Normally closed. The coil of the relay is powered by any ignition source. The ground side of the relay coil, is wired through the Vaccuum switch.

This system has been in my truck for over 10-years and has worked flawlessly. It works so smooth you never realize its there. Even with the 2.3, I don't spend enough time under 9-inches-of-mercury (vaccuum) that it makes any difference as far as keeping it cool in the truck. Even in 100 degree heat.
 
I made a minor addition to my 2.3 Ranger. I don't want the compressor running when I need to accelerate. I added a Stewart Warner Vaccuum switch and a relay to my AC system. The Vaccuum switch monitors engine vaccuum and at 9 inches of vaccuum or less it opens. The relay is wired in the AC coil power wire (the ground side,not the 12-volt side), Normally closed. The coil of the relay is powered by any ignition source. The ground side of the relay coil, is wired through the Vaccuum switch.

This system has been in my truck for over 10-years and has worked flawlessly. It works so smooth you never realize its there. Even with the 2.3, I don't spend enough time under 9-inches-of-mercury (vaccuum) that it makes any difference as far as keeping it cool in the truck. Even in 100 degree heat.

great idea!! just what the 4cyl engines need, i have to turn of the a/c compressor every time i need some quick acceleration
 
I thought it shut off under WOT already?
 
I thought it shut off under WOT already?

True, but most of us don't wanna drive with the gas pedal to the floor every time we want to accelerate.

I drive my truck normal, I don't have to floor the go pedal everytime I need to accelerate.

The Vaccuum switch is a little pricey but its worth it.
 
I have to floor it to accelerate with the a/c on now. The damn thing wouldn't get out of it's own way before, now I get beat by grandma in her Buick.:icon_surprised:I guess i'll just stick with switching the a/c off when I accelerate up to speed. :idiot:
 
Here's the reason:

99 4x4 3.0
182,000 miles
265/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler TD

4.10s aren't quite "enough" gear for 32's IMO.
If you have 3.73s, you have my condolences.

I run a smaller tire and it's peppy. I also use the powerband, up over 4k in 2nd and 3rd. I hardly notice the ac cycling, especially at speed.
 
Yep, even with a 2.3 I never notice the A/C cycling on and off. Perhaps if I had it out of the powerband it would be an issue, but at 2500+ rpm it's completely unnoticeable.
 
Yes, I have 3.73's.:bawling: When I get on it, 4,000+ rpm's. it'll rev up, then it'll kick the rpm's down 200 or so, then it'll pick up again and shift...I think there's something wrong with my trans. It drives good though.:icon_rofl:
 

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