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losing power at high altitudes


Well Gl and feel free to ask questions and we can walk you through it. Use the tech library there is alot of stuff there on the 2.8
 
The spout is the single grey connector on the harness from the distributor about 6 inches away unplug it while your timeing it. once you get the timing right plug it together then adjust the carb. If you still have the old carb take the solenoid off it and plug it in and let it sit on the manifold and try that when you go to the mountains.
 
I was just thinking too on the block drivers side just in front of the starter is the knock sensor it still might work to retard the timing under a load is it plugged in there should be a two wire plug by the coil that plugs into it that would help also on a steep grade.
 
i will look for that tomorrow, so are you saying to unplug it and it should help me out?
 
It`s hard to say what will work for you do you have a timing light the first thing would be to time it, then adjust the idle air mix. Mine ran ok with the feedback solenoid unplugged but it ran better with the metering block and I plugged the soleniod it so the computer didn`t go whaco again. The computer controls the advance and there are alot of factors that tell the computer what to do. The duraspark eliminates all of that. didnt you say the vacuum system was disabled or is all your computer stuff connected
 
I had to go back and read everything I think where I was going do you still have the old carb take the solenoid of it and plug it in and set it aside leaving the one on the carb and see if it makes a difference I am guessing it will make it run richer for pulling long hills
 
I dont have a timing light, ive been trying to do it by ear, when it gets a good idle thats where i stop.I know that isnt the way to do it,but it has to work for now, i dont have the old carb.All the stuff for the polution control is gone.all the small plastic vacum lines for it have been cut, the lines that went to the pump, hoses valves etc is all gone.All of it was taken off before i got the bronco.I would love to do the dura spark conversion but just dont have the money to do it right now, and it is my daily driver. I don't know much about the EEC-IV system,but i have a manual and reading it.But to make it all work with all the stuff i have missing is another story.If i unplug the knock sensor im sure it will run ok for a awhile im assuming? The motor had a bunch of issues when i forst got it and i got it to run good for awhile and now its acting up and i dont know what happened.
 
You want to keep the knock sensor plugged in and you can try just unplugging the feedback solenoid and see how it runs. when your timing it unplug the spout wire then rotate the distributor clockwise til it idles good but at the slower rpm then plug the spout in and see if it speeds up. the knock sensor will retard the timing under a load. If its to far advanced you will have no power at high speeds. You can get a cheap timing light on ebay or maybe someone has one on craigs list it is a good tool to have. without the sensors the computer goes into what is called limp mode so you have to try and run as good as you can until you can afford the duraspark conversion. You can possibally get lucky and get the duraspark parts out of a late 70s pinto or mustang two 2.8l at the bone yard for cheap I bought mine new for around $130 at autozone distributor, cap, adaptor, rotor, and module. and got the harness out of a 84 ranger 4 cly and you could possibly get the module there also it needs to have the blue plastic where the wires come out with two connectors a four round and a two oval. I hope you can get it running good as is but from personal exp the duraspark will bring it to life.
 
Have you rebuilt the carb yet, the 2150 non feedback carb I found has #46 jets in it and if you find you are running rich as in getting really crappy gas mileage my guess is you have #50 jets in it putting smaller jets in cant hurt and will give you more power too just dont go smaller than #46 as they work good for me.
 

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