locking front hubs, whattabout the vac stuff?

[Denisefwd93]

So I have a few truck bucks to spend. (thankfully not as large as boat bucks I used have to part with)

Anyways.... I like the idea of locking front hubs.. but a few questions come to mind. about the vacuum activation junk? I know the electrc T-case still needs that dashboard control but is there something to do not do about the no longer needed vacuum line/s to the front? What do we leave and what do we remove? Jus wonnnering what ya'll may have done. Oh, and what to leave out/off when we put the newer engine in (98 4.0)

 

[adsm08]

Well your truck doesn't have vacuum hubs (which were absolute junk).

The auto hub system used up through 1997 was fully mechanical. There is a cam and a spring used that lock the hub in when the axle shaft starts rotating inside the hub and then unlocks it when the wheel is spun backwards against the shaft (backing up in 2wd).

No vacuum needed.

The switch to manual hubs on your truck is easy enough. You will need to take everything apart as if you were going to replace the rotor and then put it back together with the proper manual hub hardware and a manual hub. The bearing retaining nuts have to be changed out because the manual hub won't fit over the auto-style nut.

Also note that different tools are needed to remove/install the two types of nuts. The auto hub nut needs a very large hex socket, while the manual nuts take a 4-prong unit.

 

[Denisefwd93]

LOL thanks ADSM Guess that explains why I couldn't find any vacuum tubes running up front and why I'd hear a ratcheting type of sound occasionally when coming out of 4wd Low? Heard it t his winter and If I remember right it went away after going in reverse 2wd.

 

[BLOODBANE]

For the nuts you will need some f0r a D44 (same nuts and are cheaper than the "conversion nuts"). you will need the inner and the outer with the locking ring in the center. The inner nut will have a nipple on it that faces outward, the locking ring looks like a big washer with holes all the way around it. the lock ring has a piece that slides in the groove at the top of the spindle and the holes fit around the nipple on the inner nut. outer nut is smooth and goes on last. you will need 2 nuts per wheel (inner and a outer) and the lock ring for each side.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I got my Warn lockouts at you-pull-it for $9.99 for the pair. I grabbed everything from the wheel bearings out and they didn't care.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Thanks! But....
Y'all made it read as rather complicated, but my average garage mechanic friend should be able to handle this?

 

[Mightyfordranger]

It's basically like taking apart the old stuff down to the spindle with the shaft pokeing through it and put the new set up on it just has different style parts google exploded views of the setup it helps alot and dig through the tech articles there's prolly something in there to help

 

[97RangerXLT]

Yeah, very easy to do. Bloodbane explained it very well. You will replace the rounded hex nut,keyway and plastic cam spring assembly with the 4-notch nut and washer system. The other washers will be reused and the new hubs slipped on.

Put the 4-notch nut with the nipple on and tighten it down to about 35 ft-lbs while turning the rotor in order to load the bearing. Back it off completely and then tighten it to 16 inch-lbs. This is basically hand tight. Put holey washer on, make sure one of the holes goes over the nipple. You might need to tighten or loosen the 4-notch nut a bit for this to happen.

Grab the other 4-notch nut and tighten that one down really tight. 235 ft-lbs or so. Put your other washers that you removed from the auto hubs on and replace the c clip. The manual hubs should slide right on.

Ta da. You are done.

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear