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locked 2wd ranger


bruni

New Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
2007
Transmission
Automatic
i have 2007 ford ranger 4.0l thats 2wd and i want to lock the rear diff. I want know how this will effect driving on asphalt and snow especially around turns. I have been told that it will want to hop and slid and will eat away my tires. I also want to raise it and put a set of muds on there but am curious if it will have enough power.
 
welcome to TRS.
a 4.0 has plenty power to move mud tires. but ull need to check pu and possibly change the diferential gears so it can move em freely. it depends on the tire size u want and the gears your truck currently has.

a welded diferential will hop and wear your tires, but a selectable locker or auto locker will release or open on turns so the tires will be able to rotate, and lock up again on straight line driving.
 
so how will this handle in the snow around turn and up hill with mud tires and a lift?
 
i've have both a Detroit and a LockRight rear locker in different vehicles. they both work well for my driving. the Detroit is much quieter and you hardly know it's there even when it locks in. very smooth. the LockRight does click going around corners and doing sharp turns. it also tends to chirp the tires way more than the Detroit. but the LockRight is about half the price. and they really don't eat away your tires if you drive it like you should.
winters here are about 7 months long with lots of snow and ice. i feel like i have much better control with the lockers than i ever did without. again, nothing replaces good, safe driving techniques and a healthy respect for road conditions. just my $.02.
 
how will this effect gas consumption and will there be any added where and tear that could cause a major problem
 
You shouldn't run lockers on a daily basis during turns one tire spins faster than the other if both are locked one will wear faster than the other it be hard on the drive train over time, if keep'em lock all the time. selectable lockers, air locker will be the best way to go so you can unlock for daily driving. Welding the spider gears is for serious trail rigs that don't want to spend the money for a real locker.
as for snow and ice you should never run your 4x4 on ice put it in 2hi. Just use the locker in case you get stuck or for driving on deep snow.:icon_thumby:
 
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You know I didn't pay to much attention exept for the fact of lockers, being that your truck is 2wd you might want to op for doing a rear end swap for a 8.8 FX4Level 2 they have 4.10 with limited slip, which should be great for your application needs.
 
i've had lockers in my vehicles for quite a number of years now. they both do daily driver duties, long trips, and light trails. never had the problem of anything wearing out. i'm guessing it's more who is driving and how they are driving that determines how well their truck performs and how fast parts wear out. i haven't noticed any change in mileage. i'm getting 21mpg on the freeway in my ranger.
 
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You shouldn't run lockers on a daily basis during turns one tire spins faster than the other if both are locked one will wear faster than the other it be hard on the drive train over time, if keep'em lock all the time. selectable lockers, air locker will be the best way to go so you can unlock for daily driving. Welding the spider gears is for serious trail rigs that don't want to spend the money for a real locker.
as for snow and ice you should never run your 4x4 on ice put it in 2hi. Just use the locker in case you get stuck or for driving on deep snow.:icon_thumby:

I have been running a rear locker on the street for some time now, I have absolutely no complaints with it. I prefer it to an open diff. I find it more predictable because you know that both tires are going to spin when you apply throttle. You are more likely to wear one tire with an open diff'd rig than with a locked one (one wheel peel). Selectable lockers are cost prohibitive to many people as well, something such as a lockright is a reasonable, cost effective compromise. It is not recommended to "dump the clutch" with something like a lockright or a Detroit locker, it could be not fully engaged and shock load your drive train, which could be bad. But clutch dumping is just stupid anyway... Letting out the clutch and "rolling on the throttle" is recommended.
 

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