Lock-right and gearing...

['99 EB Explorer]

So I was looking at a lock-right setup today. Says that when you turn corners, it makes a ratcheting sound.

Anyone who has one of these ever notice that sound? If so, how bad is it?

My truck will remain a DD for a long time, I just don't want ppl looking at my truck funny every time I take a corner. lol

Oh, and it also said that it "fits inside a standard open carrier case only (does not fit posi case)"

Total n00b question about that...would it fit my 8.8 L/S?

Also, is it worth installing one on the front too? (D35)



On to gearing..

I did my research on what gears I'd need when I upgrade tires.

I plan in using 33" tires and 4.27 gears. (changing from factory 4.10's)

Next n00b question...

Will 4.27 gears work/fit?

I know I'm still a ways off from getting this done...still need to get the t-case working! But I like doing my research far in advance so I know what I'm up against.

I've never done this kind of thing before...but I'm looking forward to hittin the trails with the local Jeep club this summer and possibly heading down to southern Ontario to wheel with those guys a few times.

My lift will be moving along VERY soon now that I have a job again! New shackles are in but, I'm having them extended about 1-2 inches. Then 2" body lift will follow soon after. (keep your eyes on the build thread in the near future)

Thanks guys 'n gals!

 

[Mac]

Not sure you saw this thread down below but lots of good info and comments in it.
Dave
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4086

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

I could be mistaken, but I really don't think they make a 4.27 for the D35. If you're going to re-gear, I'd go with 4.56 if I were you. That way, if you ever want to upgrade to a bigger tire, you're still in good shape. I went with 5.13's because I have the 2.9 and am running 35's. You have the 4.0, so you should be good. You probably wouldn't have any problems with your factory 4.10's.

As to the lock-right: If it says it fits the factory open carrier, than you're good. The limited slip doesn't change the configuration of the carrier, to my knowledge, they are all the same from the factory.

I've heard nothing but good things about them. Hopefully someone can chime in about the ratcheting sound..

 

[strvger]

yeah, you can hear the ratcheting for sure. sounds like you have a u-joint or something similar going out on it. and it will cause the tires to chirp if you step on the gas when in a tight turn. ran one for about 4 years. now i have a detroit and it's a world of difference. quiet as can be. traction is probably better as it locks up much smoother with less jerk and movement. but for the price, the lock-right is probably the best choice. and the cases in most trucks seem to be different for a factory l/s. you may have to get a non-l/s carrier.
as for gears, with 33in tires, 4.56 would be my choice. i'm running those gears with only 31in tires and like it very much.
good luck with your build.

 

[Surrey]

Wont fit in your axle. Posi and L/S are the same thing, and they are a different carrier from an open.

I would agree with Strvger, 4.10s with a 4.0l engine should be fine with 33s. Thats what Weezl runs I think, and Im pretty sure he has stated they are almost too low with the power of the 4.0.

And if you are going to spend the money on gears, stepping up such a small amount seems like a waste of money. You are talking like 4% difference... You probably wouldn't even notice it.

Also, I think the only options for the d35 are 4.56, 4.88, and 5.13... Could be wrong though. Check the Parts section in the top right corner.

 

[Mac]

You could just go with the "No-Slip" version of the Richmond unit. It's made more for nice street manners. Had mine in for over 35K miles and works great in the snow. They cost about another $200 more than the Lock-rite but that not going to work in your set-up.
Dave

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Yeah, the calculator actually suggested 4.56 gears, but it was on the lower end of the green part of the scale. 4.27's were right in the middle, so I figured they'd be better...and they're closer in RPM's than the 4.56's are. Meh.

But if you guys say my factory 4.10's will work, then great to know! More money in my pocket.

Kinda saddens me that there's a possibility that the lock-right won't work in my carrier. BOO! I'll probably call their tech line to find out for sure.

 

[kiragyu]

i have the lock-right and i dont know about the ratcheting sound the only time i heard it was for the first 3000 miles i drove my truck after putting it in now i never hear it when i take turns so idk what you guys are talking about

 

[Surrey]

Yeah, the calculator actually suggested 4.56 gears, but it was on the lower end of the green part of the scale. 4.27's were right in the middle, so I figured they'd be better...and they're closer in RPM's than the 4.56's are. Meh.

But if you guys say my factory 4.10's will work, then great to know! More money in my pocket.

Kinda saddens me that there's a possibility that the lock-right won't work in my carrier. BOO! I'll probably call their tech line to find out for sure.

100% will not work with your carrier.
The nice part is, you can probably get a new carrier (an open one, not an LS one, obviously) out of a wrecker for no more than $50.

If you are going the lunchbox locker route (lunchbox locker goes into the carrier, as apposed to replacing the whole thing like a detroit locker does) I suggest comparing your prices for a Lock-right with Aussie. I have heard very good things about the Aussies, and they are about $300 usually.

 

[-Nathan-]

lock right unlocks when not under load. yes ratchets some.

you wouldnt be able to even tell the difference between 4 10 to 427. Its such a small jump you wouldnt notice it.

I ran 456 with 33's and a 4.0. If I did it again I would go 4 88's.

 

[4.0B2]

I ran 456 with 33's and a 4.0. If I did it again I would go 4 88's.

really?? hm.... what to do, what to do.....
lol. idk if i wanna do 4.56s or 4.88s...

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Hm...was just looking at the Detroit lockers. WON'T be going in that direction any time soon. I can lock both the front and rear with lock-right for the for less than the price of locking just one with Detroit.

Also found a Detroit NoSpin. Nobody seems to have a price on those....anyone ever hear of them? Any good?

 

[4.0B2]

honestly, for money sake i'd run lock-rite's or aussie's..
if i had the money i'd run a selectable front/rear. but since i don't- i'm getting aussie's (already got my 8.8)

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Alright. Just priced the Aussie locker. Good price.

NOW...

If you had L/S rearend already and you could only do one locker...would you replace your L/S with the locker and leave the front open, or would you install said locker on front to compliment the L/S rear?

 

[4.0B2]

personally, i'd probably lock the front leave the L/S in the rear. someone else may have a diff opinion tho. depends on how much you wheel and all that...