lock cylinder failure

[mikkelstuff]

The ignition lock cylinder has failed on my 2002 Ranger XLT. The ignition key turns freely in both the clockwise and counter clockwise rotations. Clearly the ignition switch is in the "on" position as the heater blower motor keeps running with the key removed. I have disconnected the battery for now but how to replace the lock cylinder?

My 2002 Ford manuals show how to replace the steering column ignition switch but is the lock cylinder a part of this?

I do not see in the manual how to replace the lock cylinder itself.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, there is a little button in the steering column that you push when the key is in the correct position and it ejects the key cylinder. You may or may not have success with this though, but I’d start with trying to make it work like it’s supposed to. The key cylinder in my F-150 was half-broke for awhile, I found a locksmith who was able to build me a cylinder that used my original key so I just had to pop the old cylinder and stick the new in and use all my old keys

 

[mikkelstuff]

Thinking about this again, is the 2002 Ranger like my '75 Ranchero which uses a bar link from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch? If so, could the link have come loose or the ignition switch have failed rather than the lock cylinder?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thinking about this again, is the 2002 Ranger like my '75 Ranchero which uses a bar link from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch? If so, could the link have come loose or the ignition switch have failed rather than the lock cylinder?

So, what your Ranger has probably is a plastic linkage buried in the column and it can break. I think first and second gen had the metal bar and then at some point it became a link in the column and I have seen those break.

 

[mikkelstuff]

So does removing the ignition switch give access to the lock cylinder to switch link or must the lock cylinder be removed as well? I just do not see this in my 2002 Ford manuals.

 

[RonD]

Simplified drawing of how column ignition system works

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/500x274/0996b43f802308b4_190e1617fd005fe45433e864a63d9ee1343a526d.gif

At the bottom end of the ignition key's cylinder is a tab that slides into the gear in the drawing
Allowing the cylinder to turn the gear, which slides the ROD inside the column and then the ROD slides the ignition switch(under the column) into its 4 positions,
ACC, OFF/LOCK, RUN, START

The ignition key cylinder has pins that prevent the cylinder from turning inside the housing unless a Key with the correct "bumps and valleys" is inserted and moves the pins so cylinder can be turned

Can you turn the cylinder with out the key in it?
If so then the cylinder is most likely the problem

If key needs to be in then the "tab" at the bottom of the cylinder may have broke off, also a cylinder issue
New cylinder looks like this, has the "tab" sticking out at the end: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/liwAAOSwNtJggwMw/s-l1200.webp

In any case you will need to pull out the cylinder
As said there is a Button on the under side of the housing
There will be a hole in the underside of the column cover, you can insert a small screwdriver and you will feel the other hole(in housing) and button, push it in and cylinder should come out
Cylinder needs to be in the RUN/ON position to remove it

Once its out you can see more of what may be wrong

Yes, the Gear or actualtor rod can fail, less common than key cylinder, but must pull steering wheel and disassemble part of the column to get at those

 

[mikkelstuff]

Thanks Ron. Will check it out.

The lock cylinder only turns with the key installed.

I will attempt to pull the lock cylinder once it warms up a bit out on the driveway - now about 36 F.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Ok, got the lock cylinder out. As warned, the "tab" at the bottom of the lock cylinder has broken off.

NOW, ***** it, the tab does not want to pull out of the pinion gear. I managed to drill a small diameter hole in the tab (blew out the shavings) to start a sheet metal screw so I could pull on the danged thing with needle nose pliers. Still the tab does not want to pull out.

So what now? Am I missing something?

I suppose I could tap a long screw into the "tab" and yank on it with a slide hammer BUT would that damage something?

 

[RonD]

There is nothing electrical inside or behind the cylinder housing, spray some lube in on the tab, see if you can wiggle it around and loosen it up

Is the steering wheel Locked?
If so you may need to wiggle it as well

If you have a screw in the end of the Tab can you turn the tab either way?


Picture here of the inside of cylinder: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ra...69ebac5cb311007d4ae1f927d7583209b28846ed.jpeg

The green part does come out and then the gear behind that
Seen here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ShcAAOSwgFFjzcsH/s-l400.jpg

 

[mikkelstuff]

Thanks Ron. The tab does wiggle around, just not pull out. It may help to remove the green thingy and the shiny piece behind that.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Still no luck. The steering wheel is no locked nor the gear shift.

The green part does not want to come out either. I can slip a dental pick around the edges but it will not lift out. I suspect this is a keeper of some kind for the pinion gear.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Alright, finally got the stinking tab out of the steering column.

This is the bad. Note that the tab is sheared off the end of the lock cylinder.

The missing tab was stuck in the pinion gear. I suspect this tab to be soft metal which distorted over time and wedged into the gear. So I drilled all the way through the tab with a No. 29 drill bit and tapped for an 8-32 screw. Then I made up a rig to use with my slide hammer having threaded a long 8-32 screw into the tab.

It took a couple of good yanks with the slide hammer, but the blasted tab came out as such:

 

[mikkelstuff]

Now can I assume that a replacement lock cylinder can be reworked for my existing key?

 

[RonD]

Yes, Google: Recoding a new ignition lock cylinder

Watch the 3:18 video


WOW, what a pain that was
Use a screwdriver to make sure you can easily turn the slot to
ACC, LOCK/OFF, RUN, START

 

[mikkelstuff]

Assuming the pinon/rack move easily, it would seem a good time to lubricate those some way. Any suggestions?

I have some "dry" lube for speedometer cables that might work.