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lincoln locker on a 7.5"


ohh ok so i must weld the gears with each other, then turn the wheels to weld it all around? sorry if i ask too much but i have never done this lol
i think im gonna weld the gears between themselves and turn the wheels to weld it all around, but i think im not gonna weld it to the carrier

ill see if i can get this done for next week, wish me luck! :icon_welder:

Don't set the RSH TRUCK on fire......... that'd suck, you'd no-longer be the only person on your island that can afford to own a FORD!!!

Frank

Yeah...... weld it, throw it in neutral, turn the wheels, repeat......
 
Don't set the RSH TRUCK on fire......... that'd suck, you'd no-longer be the only person on your island that can afford to own a FORD!!!

Frank

Yeah...... weld it, throw it in neutral, turn the wheels, repeat......

hahahahahaha it aint island man!!! :icon_twisted:
so once again....
remove cover, drain oil, clean up, weld the 4 gears among themselves turn the wheels, weld until its done all the way around?
 
You should weld it to the carrier just like in the pic above. This actually strengthens the carrier if done right. Just be sure to leave the cross shaft loose so you can get to the c-clips.
 
You should weld it to the carrier just like in the pic above. This actually strengthens the carrier if done right. Just be sure to leave the cross shaft loose so you can get to the c-clips.

so i would need to take apart the hole diferential to weld? or i can weld it in the axle turning the wheels?
 
yea man. go for it i see you are on the farm most of the time so it should be awesome. if you take the carrier out i belive you will need new crush sleeves and that stuff like shims. but not positive. but if you weld both sides of the actual spider gears and spin the carrier and weld the otherside it will be strong np. just make the welds penetrate
 
yea man. go for it i see you are on the farm most of the time so it should be awesome. if you take the carrier out i belive you will need new crush sleeves and that stuff like shims. but not positive. but if you weld both sides of the actual spider gears and spin the carrier and weld the otherside it will be strong np. just make the welds penetrate

yeah im planning to do it without taking the carrier
and ive been studying the pics and the dif animation on the tech library(thanks TRS!!) so now i understand how it works and how to weld it.
yeah i must take care of not welding the cross pin too.

i see that your truck is almost the same my brother has lol
00 2WD ext cab 3.0 his is 5 spd tho
 
watch out if you weld it in the truck....the oil will want to catch fire...you have to clean it out as good as you can without useing solvents
 
ohh ok, yeah im gonna wtach out for that, if i see its too risky then ill take it out.
 
i figured out the hard way...first tack the pumkin went up in flames lol...though quick work of my electric leaf blower took care of it

though it got annoying putting out flames after every weld
 
i figured out the hard way...first tack the pumkin went up in flames lol...though quick work of my electric leaf blower took care of it

though it got annoying putting out flames after every weld

ohh:icon_twisted: can i use diesel to clean it up?
 
ohh:icon_twisted: can i use diesel to clean it up?

are you a mad man? diesel is oil based.... it will stick worse than gasoline or even alcohol would!!!

Tell you an old trick from cleaning a muzzle-loader..........
boiling hot water and dish soap. then rinse thoroughly with more.......... boiling hot water.

We use steam cleaners on the farm for our oil bathed drive chains when they get contaminated with water (the hot water evaporates, better than cold and doesn't fill the resovoir with diesel or other powerfull detergents that strip lubrication)

in a muzzleloader... you use boiling water on like a stove.... use rag and ramrod, to plunge water through it, get all the crap out (wearing gloves) and you can literally see the water evaporate off the metal....... then you lightly coat it in oil and it never rusts.

It's an idea................

Frank
 
are you a mad man? diesel is oil based.... it will stick worse than gasoline or even alcohol would!!!

Tell you an old trick from cleaning a muzzle-loader..........
boiling hot water and dish soap. then rinse thoroughly with more.......... boiling hot water.

We use steam cleaners on the farm for our oil bathed drive chains when they get contaminated with water (the hot water evaporates, better than cold and doesn't fill the resovoir with diesel or other powerfull detergents that strip lubrication)

in a muzzleloader... you use boiling water on like a stove.... use rag and ramrod, to plunge water through it, get all the crap out (wearing gloves) and you can literally see the water evaporate off the metal....... then you lightly coat it in oil and it never rusts.

It's an idea................

Frank

i was thinking about degreaser and water with soap
 
Trust frank on this one. We use it for our m-16 and 50 cal barrels in the army worked like a charm!
 

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