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Lifting my stock Ranger.


87danger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
83
Age
41
City
CALI....
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
So i have a damn near stock truck 87 Ranger 2.9 v6 single cab short box 5 speed has stock posi witch i didnt understand. So im never done a lift so im new to it im not trying to do nothing crazy but i want some thing good!!! I dont want to spend two much and doing a strait axel just seams to much for me right now. I think im only looking for 3 or 4 inches of sus.... lift. I seen this thing on cranking you torsion bars and that sounds like that might be a easy way and quick and cheap way to get some lift but it looks like it might only before 98 and newer rangers.... Any help is good help!!!!!!!!!!!
 
your right,98 and up is IFS and has torsion bars.if you go any higher than 1 1/2 - 2 inches on the front you will need drop brackets,or you cant align yor frontend properly.I ran into the same problem,trust me you dont want to go there.I bought 2 in. skyjacker spring and blocks when i had this problem,i was replacing wheel bearings every 2-3 weeks.I saved up my money and bought a skyjacker 4in kit w/brackets,well worth the money,that is your best route if you want 3-4 inches.another way to get 1-1 1/2 in the front is washers,look in the tech page on this site.I also am using washers with my kit to help level my truck side to side and they are safe as well.good luck
 
Witch kit easy easier to put on and witch is stronger? Is there any cutting and or welding??? Iwant it to last and be strong cause i will be driving it here and there and also to the trail!!! Im thinking i would like 31s and at the most 33s under my truck and look good!!! Like i said im new to lifts and dont even know where to start and not sure even where to start to learn how to but I have worked on cars and motors my hole life!!! Thanks you guys, love the help!!!
 
Both Skyjacker and James Duff are very good kits. I doubt you would have an issue with either one of them. Opinions seem to vary which one is best, though most everyone seems to agree they hold the two top spots for Ranger lifts.

No welding is needed, however you will need an angle grinder to grind some rivets off the frame, and of course a drill and other various tools.
You'll need a pitman arm puller also.

Installing a lift is not hard, though I would plan for a whole weekend to get the job done.

33x12.50 tires should fit at 3-4" lift with a small bit of fender trimming (mostly right at the bottom corners).
 
Duff is going to be a little bit cheaper but I think its the best ranger kit out there they have superior extended radius arms and very nice shocks as well as good coil springs. I'd go for a stage 1 or stage 2 JD lift. But that my opinion Skyjacker is good but I like JD more.
 
Thanks guys!!!! Hey junkie a pitman arm puller??? What a pickle fork? Or is it called a pitman arm puller??? I got the tools thats not a problem lol i weld and got bottles i was just asking if it was going to get that detailed!!! Like i said im new to lifts and im not sure where to start!!! gears and tranny motors and t-case no prob just new to lifts!!!
 
Doing a strait axel job is crazy hard right? I hear people hate alot on the stock front end!!!! Im looking to lift it and heel it but i dont want to lift it and be un happy with the front end and have to start over!!!!
 
The TTB is actually a very good front axle. If set up right it can be better than a solid axle. Though I recommend swapping a d-35 ttb in place of your weak d-28.
 
An sas is not hard if you do leaf springs up front. Should only take you a day. The ttb is not a strong axle, if you do any serious offroading a solid axle is highly recommended.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
That's not true, the D35 TTB is a plenty strong axle (approaching what a D44 under a F-150 would be with just a simple locking hub swap).

87, take a look in the Ranger Axles section, right now there's a good thread currently discussing the D35 axle. Unless you plan to run some reaallly big tires (like 37"+), I doubt you would be disappointed with a D35 under there (though you might still be subjected to some peer pressure to swap simply because it's not a straight beam axle lol. I've learned to deal with that simply by showing what it's capable of :D ).
However like RangerBoy mentioned, you most likely have a D28 under there right now, not the D35. The D35 is a direct bolt-in swap in place of a D28 (if you weren't lifting it, you'd probably have to shorten your driveshaft for the D35, but with the lift your stock driveshaft should be fine).


Pitman arm puller:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W142/
 
Last edited:
Give me a few months and I'll be selling a ttb d35 w/ lockrite locker, 3" brackets and extended radius arms. I picked up a d60 and wanna swap her in soon when I can get all the parts together.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
Is there any where i can watch a instucional video on doing a sus.... lift and or swapping out axels???
 

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