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Liftgate Handle Latch...Need Help


Rust makes holes in metal. Just wait a while.
Apparently none of you have owned a Bronco 2, otherwise you'd realize the rear hatch isn't metal its fiberglass.
 
Yup. Haven't had one yet.

My bad.
 
Nope. Never have. Just Rangers.
 
With the terrible design of that handle/latch mechanism I think you are better off skipping the Bronco 2 LOL. That's a very horrible design sadly no parts available anymore so we are stuck trying to cobble stuff together.

Do you know if the Ranger tailgate handle pieces where the 2 rods connect are metal or plastic by chance? Wonder if there would be some way to make a tailgate latch work?
 
Since that is the case, a thin piece of metal as a backer might not be a bad idea. Or a wide washer to back up the fiberglass. Half of my utility rebuild project is hardware from my local hardware store. I might have more money invested in hardware than I do wood.
 
With the terrible design of that handle/latch mechanism I think you are better off skipping the Bronco 2 LOL. That's a very horrible design sadly no parts available anymore so we are stuck trying to cobble stuff together.

Do you know if the Ranger tailgate handle pieces where the 2 rods connect are metal or plastic by chance? Wonder if there would be some way to make a tailgate latch work?

I'm pretty sure they are plastic. It has been a while since I had a Ranger tailgate apart.
 
After the weather clears up again, I'll pull the parts on the hatch apart and see what I can find out. Wish I could remember where it was I found the Explorer handle mod LOL.
 
Do you know if the Ranger tailgate handle pieces where the 2 rods connect are metal or plastic by chance? Wonder if there would be some way to make a tailgate latch work?

@wildbill23c On my '84 Ranger the tailgate release rods were held onto the latch arms by the plastic pieces. I tried these:
36671


(Dorman 75451) which were the closest aftermarket replacements for this type that I could find, but these are listed for later model Fords, They didn't hold up at all; the arm thickness or hole size may be different on earlier models.

Here is what I end up using instead on my Ranger (and these are holding up well), which are metal throttle rod clips:
36673

Most parts stores carry these clips individually, but the Dorman 41016 pack has three sizes, and includes one each in LH and RH. I cut thin slices of plastic tubing to make bushings for the rod ends (fills the gap in the arm holes where the original clips' "fingers" were), and I squeezed the new clip retainer tabs so it clipped onto the rods real tight. I think I used 4mm pneumatic tubing to make the bushings; simple slice with a razor knife, the thickness of the arm, and they worked perfectly.

I also remember an article somewhere on replacing the original B2 handle with an Explorer handle, but I can't find it either. I used these clips on my Ranger gate; my B2 rear latch still works so it's still original. I don't think that a Ranger gate latch handle will work on a B2; it mounts to the inner wall and requires a large rectangular hole in the outer wall sheet metal. I'm sure that whatever fix you come up with will be better than the original setup. Good luck!

P.S.- Please try to forgive those who know not the way of the B2, for they are still lost in the wilderness.
 
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@wildbill23c On my '84 Ranger the tailgate release rods were held onto the latch arms by the plastic pieces. I tried these:
View attachment 36671

(Dorman 75451) which were the closest aftermarket replacements for this type that I could find, but these are listed for later model Fords, They didn't hold up at all; the arm thickness or hole size may be different on earlier models.

Here is what I end up using instead on my Ranger (and these are holding up well), which are metal throttle rod clips:
View attachment 36673
Most parts stores carry these clips individually, but the Dorman 41016 pack has three sizes, and includes one each in LH and RH. I cut thin slices of plastic tubing to make bushings for the rod ends (fills the gap in the arm holes where the original clips' "fingers" were), and I squeezed the new clip retainer tabs so it clipped onto the rods real tight. I think I used 4mm pneumatic tubing to make the bushings; simple slice with a razor knife, the thickness of the arm, and they worked perfectly.

I also remember an article somewhere on replacing the original B2 handle with an Explorer handle, but I can't find it either. I used these clips on my Ranger gate; my B2 rear latch still works so it's still original. I don't think that a Ranger gate latch handle will work on a B2; it mounts to the inner wall and requires a large rectangular hole in the outer wall sheet metal. I'm sure that whatever fix you come up with will be better than the original setup. Good luck!

P.S.- Please try to forgive those know not the way of the B2, for they are still lost in the wilderness.
I'm hoping the original parts that the latch rods are connected to will connect to the explorer handle, I only grabbed the handle mechanism, couldn't get the rods out of the rest of the mechanism at the pick a part, no worries plenty of them over there if I have to return to grab more parts LOL.
 
Takes some pics and write an article....
QUOTE="wildbill23c, post: 1720968, member: 70218"]
I'm hoping the original parts that the latch rods are connected to will connect to the explorer handle, I only grabbed the handle mechanism, couldn't get the rods out of the rest of the mechanism at the pick a part, no worries plenty of them over there if I have to return to grab more parts LOL.
[/QUOTE]
 
I'll try and get some pictures of the disaster when I get started. Dang weather decided to go from spring back to winter again so it'll be a while...and I don't see any immediate need to get to anything in the back of the Bronco 2 LOL...I can still crawl over the back seat and trip the latch if I need to though.
 
Didn't feel right drilling out my bronco II hatch to accommodate the explorer handle.
So I removed the explorer studs, and drilled 2 small holes (through the plastic explorer base-plate).

handle.jpg


Yes, you can see the bolt heads...but some nice button heads would almost look OEM.
Also, my fiberglass hatch wasn't harmed during the installation.

handle-02.jpg


Win, Win :)
 
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