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Lifted shocks that don't ride like a buckboard


ghunt81

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2015
Messages
203
City
Clarksburg, WV
Vehicle Year
2009
Transmission
Automatic
I did a torsion crank and small rear lift on my truck last year (replaced factory blocks with 3" blocks- so about a 1.5" lift in back). I got the longer Rancho RS5000 shocks that they say are for 0-3" of lift (RS5126, RS5374) because I figured Rancho is a good brand and they had a good rebate on them.

Problem is, they ride SUPER stiff. With these shocks on the truck it rides rougher than both my Mustang and my old F250 (and that thing had leaf springs in front). Are there any lifted shocks out there that ride better than these and don't cost an arm and a leg? If I can find a good deal on something I might replace the shocks before I break the truck out again this winter. Thanks.
 
I did a torsion crank and small rear lift on my truck last year (replaced factory blocks with 3" blocks- so about a 1.5" lift in back). I got the longer Rancho RS5000 shocks that they say are for 0-3" of lift (RS5126, RS5374) because I figured Rancho is a good brand and they had a good rebate on them.

Problem is, they ride SUPER stiff. With these shocks on the truck it rides rougher than both my Mustang and my old F250 (and that thing had leaf springs in front). Are there any lifted shocks out there that ride better than these and don't cost an arm and a leg? If I can find a good deal on something I might replace the shocks before I break the truck out again this winter. Thanks.


stiff ride is probably due more to the torsion bar crank
 
stiff ride is probably due more to the torsion bar crank

That's what I was thinking too. At-bar crank gets you height by putting more tension on the spring. You effectively just put stiffer springs in the front of your truck.
 
Wouldn't that make it super stiff over ALL bumps though? I feel like when I go over something that both front wheels hit first, it's pretty good. But on rough roughs where one wheel or the other is hitting bumps, it's super stiff. And the back end rides really stiff too, although I guess that's probably just due to there being no weight in the back. During the winter when I had 200 lbs in the bed, it rode a little better in back, but still seemed stiff.

Is that just how it is, then?
 
I had a set of those stupid twist in knuckles in my front springs a while ago, and they were AWFUL. They made the truck ride terrible, and once I realized what they were I ditched them, rides much better now.

It could also have something to do with the fact that is seems like you are closer to the low end of the lift rating on those shocks.
 
A T-bar crank does not put more tension in the spring. It is like putting a spacer on top of a coil spring to get lift. What it does is put the suspension, in a neutral state, closers to the limit of suspension drop. So, if you hit a bump, the suspension has more travel upward but has less travel downward and it can hit the suspension limit to make it feel rough.

I have run a 1.5" T-bar lift since near new and have no difference in ride quality with the exception of occasionally hitting the suspension travel limit when the front tires leave (or almost leave) the ground momentarily. A vehicle does not get any heavier when lifted, unless you add weight, so why should the spring be under more tension. The angle of the geometry of the suspension could have some effect on the spring but it should be minimal.

I agree that using shocks near the low end of the lift rating may be part of the problem. The again, I have heard Rancho shock are kind of stiff.
 
had the same problem on my 2000 after cranking the T bars. the shocks were near the extended limit. instead of just one wheel dropping into a hole the entire front end would drop. very little articulation.
I cut the lower stem on the shocks, threaded them, and added threaded sleeves so they are now adjustable length shocks. they are set to increase the length by about 1.5". that translates to about 2.5" inches at the wheel.
made a big difference in ride and handling.
 
I had a set of those stupid twist in knuckles in my front springs a while ago, and they were AWFUL. They made the truck ride terrible, and once I realized what they were I ditched them, rides much better now.

It could also have something to do with the fact that is seems like you are closer to the low end of the lift rating on those shocks.


I should be near the middle of the shock range though, I would think. I'd say I did at least 1.5-2" lift up front, and when I held the Rancho shocks up next to the stockers they were definitely more than just 3" longer. I would think it would have to accommodate a fair bit outside that range if they're saying they are good for anything from stock heigh to 3" lift.

I dunno, it's not holes that seem to be the issue, just bumps/rough roads/uneven terrain. It just seems to hit really hard when going over those types of surfaces.

I will include the caveat that I never drove the truck "stock" because it had a roached transmission when I bought it, and I kind of did everything to it over the summer before actually driving it. I did swap in #1 bars which I know are stiffer, maybe that's part of it. I have read where some people said the Ranchos were stuff but other people said they were soft so I wasn't even sure.
 
When you compared the Rancho shocks to the stock shocks, did you check them fully extended or just in the compressed position? Are you sure the stock shocks are really the correct ones?

I don't think the #1 bars should be the cause. My FX4 has #1 bars and I don't consider it harsh riding with the Bilstein shocks. It could be the combination of the #1 bars and lifting it too much. It is possible it was already lifted by the PO and then you installed the #1 bars which would hold it higher then cranked the bars a little more to get more lift. I think it is a possibility you have just lifted it too much. You need to check the actual ride height per the Ford repair manual. Here is a copy of those pages.

Ride_height_diagram.jpg


Ride_height_specs.jpg


I always set mine at the maximum for new suspension and that gives me about 1.5" lift.
 
Are those Rancho's gas charged? If so, swapping to a regular shock would help some. I have always been able to find the Monroe shock specs and ordered to fit vs buying expensive aftermarket lift shocks.
Here:
http://www.monroe.com.au/images/pdf/Monroe-Catalogue-2016.pdf

I am running "F" springs on my 2001 Edge extended cab. I think they would be too soft to get as much lift as you are from the "1"s. I have air shocks on the front at 40psi and get a great ride, for an old truck, anyway the "B"s would get you a better ride without air shocks. :icon_thumby:
Torsion bar spring rates:
Diameter 1.03, 1.06, or 1.09"
Spring codes
200 - "F"
215 - "B" code
235 - 1 or A
 
Gas shocks on their own don't ride that bad, mine drove really nice until I crossed the line and put Explorer springs in the back.
 
When you compared the Rancho shocks to the stock shocks, did you check them fully extended or just in the compressed position? Are you sure the stock shocks are really the correct ones?

I only compared them extended. The Ranchos were compressed in the box and looked similar in length to the stock shocks but I don't really remember.

It is possible it was already lifted by the PO

Nope. As I stated it was a former company vehicle at my employer, it was definitely not lifted.

Are those Rancho's gas charged?
They are not.

This truck originally came with F bars and I swapped on the #1's because I knew I wanted to do a torsion crank.

Ah well- I guess I'll just have to take it how it is.
 

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