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Lifted 98+ Ranger height


JoshT

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
5,331
City
Macon/Fort Valley, GA
State - Country
GA - USA
Vehicle Year
1999
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Engine
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
few inches
Tire Size
~30"
In the planning stage for an upcoming project. Don't currently own a lifted 4x4 Ranger, but do see the potential for lifting my '99 in the future if other things don't work out as I would like. Better to account for that in the plans now, than try to adapt or restart when/if it happens later.

Stock a 4x4 99 Ranger is less than 6' tall. I'm right at 6 foot and could easily look over the roof of my or my dad's 4x4 Rangers when stock. I've not been around any of these lifted, and the real numbers for a lift don't always match advertised. Also tire size increase adds height. Even if I had solid numbers for the height gains, I no longer have stock height Rangers around to compare to.

If one were to install a Superlift 4" or RC 5" lift, and 33" tires, approximately what would the new roof height be? No roof racks, baskets, lights, or other attachments, just the bare roof.
 
One thing to keep in mind is the clearance to garage door (if you have / park in garage)... my smaller 7'(tall) by 8' (wide) door is a clearance of 6'10" on the arm (that pulls the door) connecting the door to opener track... and my 1948 sits at 6'9" highest spot in center of cab on normal pressure air on the tires. Sooo 1 inch clearance when the tires are cold a little less on a hot day with hot tires. A bit too tight for my comfort.

edit, add:
I also found that was the easiest way to measure for me since the door opening is 7'x8' and flat cement on both sides - so I can pull 1/3 under the door and then just measure the clearance with a short 1' tape measure - lot less error and easier on the paint than trying to lay a straight edge across the roof and guessing and adding etc etc - one simple subtraction of 1-10" and you have the numbers.
 
Thanks for the input, but an existing structure is not a concern. Just need to know approximate height of the lifted truck, to the plus side.
 
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I'm guessing you have done the math to death, but in case you were just spitballing (and I was interested given the 2007 is the same per the dimensions page)...
the dimensions page says 4x4 ('98-11) are 67.7" at the highest point, stock tires vary but say the 27.4" (225/70R15) I have seen on a few... that's 5.6" difference, half of which adds height and half goes above the axle right... so 2.8", plus your 5" lift kit... on paper total height of 7.8" on top of the 67.7".. looking at 75.5" - a fair shade over 6'.

Course the tire sidewall squish will be different and you will probably not see every last bit of that in reality, but was that numbers you were seeing too?

I'll also throw out it is not just the garage you park in at home, but if you have covered parking at work, downtown etc - anywhere you go... a lot of the garages in downtown are 7'11", but there are some that are 6'11" and some drive through fast food and such places have those bash bars that are lower than you'd think.... up to you how much you have to start worrying about height just in a day to day any old place but I've already had to start being mindful about it with the '48.
 
As I said in OP, advertised gains don't always translate to real world gains. I can do the math from those stock specs, but even that is a guess due to the variance of stock parts and tires. I'm more interested in real world results from installing the lift. Not an "it added this much", but an "it's this tall now".

Again, I do not have to take any existing structures into consideration..It's got nothing to do with a shop, garage, carport, parking deck, etc. Almost no parking garages in my area, those that are will fit my 250 no problem and I'd be driving my car to them anyway. If I built a shop or garage door height will be 8' minimum with much more ceiling height.

That said, there are some slightly flexible limitations height restrictions for this project, as well as a few alternate paths if I will exceed those limitations. This measurement will help me to determine which route is better.
 
FYI, the Superlift kit was discontinued a while ago and RC uses ball joint spacers which is a weaker design.
 
FYI, the Superlift kit was discontinued a while ago and RC uses ball joint spacers which is a weaker design.
Really?

I'm not saying that you are wrong, but...

There are several places that still show the Superlift as being available. I know that inventory listings can be wrong, just saying what a google search is showing

The RC lift kits don't appear to show a ball joint spacer in the pictures, or mention one in the instructions. They have new taller steering knuckles with the kit, so I fail to see why they would want to use a ball joint spacer.
 

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