Lift Pump Checking?

[Die.Fledermaus]

I have the neighbors 1987 B2 in my yard with no fuel pressure. It did squirt/dribble when I tried the test valve, but not enough to run a test gauge.

The fuel layout appears to be;
Rear bumper --> Lift pump in tank --> fuel not filter/surge puck --> HP pump --> in line can filter --> test port on rail --> front bumper

So I removed the high pressure pump, its dark. No noise, shows open, running 12v to it and nothing. But I wonder why the pump died.

So I ran the lift pump (tank has more than 10 gallons of fresh fuel) and with the lines open at the high pressure pump...nothing. But it makes all the working fine noise at the tank/filler neck.

Should I be able to empty the tank using the lift pump?

 

[adsm08]

You should be able to empty the tank with the LP pump. I've done it several times.

It is possible something caused them to both fail at the same time. I would try draining the tank, two new pumps, and see what happens.

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

That is what I am starting to think, despite all the correct noises a working in tank makes, no amount of external pumps are going to work.

This has everything I don't want to see in a sender r&r, good interior factory carpet with no access hole, at least 100lbs in fuel, trailer hitch, unknown insect collection from sitting, 4wd dirt collection...ugh

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

Not to get too far off topic, but what is the flat rate/typical labor cost on a job like this?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Talk your neighbor into letting you cut an access hole. I believe it would cut your r+r time down a lot. I have a thread somewhere that shows how I did mine.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

Its a little old lady, really likes this B2, normally I would try explaining "its a red interior gack and expendable"

 

[adsm08]

I like the red interiors. The only reason my BII isn't red interior is because the wife didn't want two identical vehicles.

Anyway, my BII is the same situation. You don't need to remove the tank the whole way, or cut a hole in the floor. I have the hitch and the skid plate, I drop the front bolts of the skid plate and the tank strap bolts, it lets the front of the tank drop enough to remove the pump.

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

That is not a bad idea, this hitch has some air gap between the skid plate (mine doesn't) so maybe. Its raining and wet and I can't see that far but are you sure the tank straps come loose near the axle?

 

[adsm08]

Yes. This isn't a theoretical suggestion, I have had to remove the tank pump from my B2 several times and this is how I do it. The class 1 hitch on mine doesn't leave enough room to access the rear skid plate bolts without taking it or the bumper off.

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

I had a couple hours of daylight today, very little real progress. If one has an EAS-LIFT (small sticker too worn to read) 2", the skid plate bolts are blocked by the cross bar, and while removing only one frame mount should work...it was installed with not square shanked bolts and they are hopelessly seized.
Its parked too far away for the plasma cutter, but I think oxy-acl or dremel+cold chisel will reach the exposed hitch frame nuts.