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leaf springs


20 mm is .6 smaller and 21mm is .4 bigger

Why torch it? I guess if you use some kind of heat shield you might be OK. Remember the tank is plastic.

James
 
I was just thinking that if I heated it up I might be able to tap on a socket easier.
 
Ok, I cut the bolt off. All of the old parts are out, and I'm getting the new bolts tomorrow and throwing this all back together. I hope it goes on smoother than it did coming apart. Does it matter which direction the springs go in? Is there a front and a back?
 
I wouldn't think so... I've never had to ask myself that since I never took the front bolt out.

I would measure the thickness and width of front and back... if no difference... then I wouldn't worry about the direction of each leaf.
 
Ok, thanks guys for all your help. I'll let you know when I'm done how it worked out.
 
There is a front and back to the spring, i think the long end goes towards the back of the truck. If u reverse it it would push the axle back about 6 inches. When i did an adda leaf i noticed this.
 
All done. Much easier getting things in. I thought it would have been tougher doing it myself but it wasn't bad. I ended up having to buy the bolt at a dealership ($15!) and noticed the way the leafs were on a ranger in the parking lot. There is a little bracket on one end of the springs and I noticed it was towards the back, so that's the way I put mine in. Man what a difference, I don't know if it's just because I raised it up but it looks like it is higher than most 4x2's. I'll post a pic, maybe the springs he gave me were higher or would I have needed different shocks? Again, it could be just because I'm not used to it...
 
its sitting just like a 2wd ranger should man, no worries, and it prolly rides ALOT better now too

Truck_pics.jpg
 
Hell yeah it does. I still find that I'm bracing myself before all of the bumps, when I don't need to now. Thanks again for all the help.
 
Is it normal for the back to kind of side-step when hitting rougher road/potholes and stuff? It feels really light and floaty going over some bumps. The back feels like it jumps around a little.
 
Yea, that's wheel hop at it's finest! There are several ways to help control that. You can get traction bars. I've been considering adding these to mine for several years now but wheel hop is almost a non-issue for me.

James
 
Yea, that's wheel hop at it's finest! There are several ways to help control that. You can get traction bars. I've been considering adding these to mine for several years now but wheel hop is almost a non-issue for me.

James

I guess I know nothing about "traction bars". Is anti-sway bar and traction bar the same thing?

I would like to do something about my wheel hop, for sure.
 
a rear sway bar will help some, but traction bars are usually known better as ladder bars
 
Two different things for both of you.

Sway bars help to control the "sway" of the vehicle. They connect left and right together in the front and/or rear. I've added the rear helwig bar to my truck and loved it. I could tella difference as soon as I drove across the parking lot. I also upgraded the fron one as well, not as big of a difference but it does clear my tie rod ends better.

Traction bars are an add on affair. They "link" the center of your axle to the frame and help limit "hop". Here is a pic and description:

http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/tracbar.html

I have known people to call "slapper bars" tracton bars as well. They are a little more universal; Pic:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...924746+4294925130+4294907827+115&autoview=sku


Ladderbars REAPLACE you leaf springs all together. They are great for drag racing since they allow very little side to side movement of your axle. Pic:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=CEE-2005&N=700+-118334+115&autoview=sku

If I had to choose one of these methods in a daily driver, it would be the traction bars. I don't have room for the "slapper" style to sit below my axle with my current drop.

James
 

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