Late model 35 ttb knuckle on early model 35 ttb

[85_Ranger4x4]

Bingo exactly what I was looking for. That post in itself should be a sticky.

The tech library has the widths for the rear axles but I couldn't find one for the fronts. It would be a nice addition.

I thought they were close but didn't realize they were dead on.

 

[4x4junkie]

Bingo exactly what I was looking for. That post in itself should be a sticky.

Well, it IS right here in the Axles FAQ post sticky... I guess I hadn't thought that it needed it's own separate sticky, but if no one is bothering to look in there before posting maybe it does?

Of course with each & every item in there having it's own separate sticky, it's probably gonna get a little cluttered up at the top of the forum here...

I'll see if I can get some widths added to the front axles page.

 

[Nerdrage88]

They sure are. That would be dandy if it was on the front axle page. I sifted through a lot of stuff and didn't find my answer. If there was a way to somehow get people to look at the stickies. I know I don't often think to look at them. I guess I have read them before and didn't find what I was looking for so I don't think about it. The reason I said that it should be a sticky because it made sense because many don't (not necessarily TRS just forums in general)

Thanks for your patience!

 

[Nerdrage88]

Maybe I'm beating a dead horse but I have been thinking........

The ultimate upgrade (maybe) is to go to Dana 44 spindles but..............8 lug Dana 44 and doing a 9 inch with Dana 60 flang and use 8 lug hub so it's a full float.

Unless there is a way to full float that 9 inch with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern like the Dana 44.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...es.html#/forumsite/20982/topics/211942?page=1

Maybe this could work on a Dana 35 or a d44 swap. Idk maybe I have too much time to think.

I guee I'm starting to think about prerunner stuff (I just love desert racing) and thinking of desert type strength.

I'm just thinking out loud. Can't decide the route I want to take.

 

[4x4junkie]

I guee I'm starting to think about prerunner stuff (I just love desert racing) and thinking of desert type strength.

If you're looking to do any fast runnin' around in the desert, the absolute very last thing you want is the massive weight of 8-lug crap hanging off the ends of your axles. You want to keep unsprung weight to the littlest amount possible.

The stock D35 is a pretty stout setup. Some have complained the wheelbearings aren't very robust, however I have not had a wheel bearing issue on mine in 22 years running 33" and 35" tires outside of some water intrusion past the seal one time, which leads me to think some are possibly skimping on quality, or maybe not setting the preload up correctly (a little too much preload can cause a bearing failure on this axle fairly easily). Another possibility is use of the pre-installed bearing races often found in new brake rotors... NEVER mix bearings & races, especially ones of different brands and/or origins.

I always buy Timken #SET37 bearing & race sets for mine (the very few times I've needed to buy bearings) and replace any existing races in new rotors with the races from the Timken sets. This seems to be the secret to making them last.


BTW, the widths are now on the front axle page.

 

[Nerdrage88]

Hmmm that makes sense maybe I'm getting ahead of myself besides this ain't for racin. But I am considering the 9 inch but then again will the money and work be worth the trouble when 8.8s are found anywhere so if I break it it shouldn't be that big of a deal to replace the axle but then again if it's somewhat over built I won't have to worry. Maybe not full float built (would be the cats new on b2) but hopefully won't pop an axle tube and I can weld a truss no problem on a 9.

I feel my fab skills are well enough to do a cut and turn and extend its just the axle shafts to worry about after that. Still haven't found a inexpensive way to do that but that may have to be one of those things that you buy once cry once.

The axle would get a full rebuild anyway so I would use the best parts and I am well aware of properly preloading bearings so that's a non issue for me.

That also brings be to another thing I was thinking and was ditching the whole idea of why this thread was started and do the 44 knuckle swap but you bring up the weight and the 35 stuff should fit the bill well enough for my purposes.

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[4x4junkie]

The 9" is a great axle with tons of aftermarket support, though personally I think it is getting a bit long in the tooth...

IMO unless you need to be able to quickly change gear ratios (something the 9" drop-out third member design makes real easy), I think you'd be served just fine by a 31-spline 8.8". The 8.8" has a bit less internal friction than the 9" which will not only help you get a bit more HP to the ground if that's important, but will help your fuel economy as well. Only weak area on the 8.8" housing is the axle tubes, which welding them to the centersection along with a little reinforcement around the area of the leaf spring perches should eliminate any issues there.

 

[Nerdrage88]

All solid points. I didn't know about the 9 inch having more internal friction.

So what your telling me is I was over thinking it. Haha I tend to do that. Perhaps that might be way this thread is they way that is.

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[Nerdrage88]

Oh and I did check out the front axle page and I think that will eliminate a good amount of questions. Like mentioned before, I normally don't look at stickies because they usually ether are lacking info or the info is mixed up in a 900 page thread. I wish other forums had as much dedication as this one from its members.

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