koa's 93 ranger build

[multiranger]

I am liking this build... Awesome job!

 

[koa's93ranger]

I am liking this build... Awesome job!

Thank you. I'll try not to disappoint

 

[koa's93ranger]

I'm just a firm believer in a couple grade 8 bolts are stronger than welds. Welding haste it's place but welds fail more often than bolts.

Haha I've always thought the exact opposite. I like the fact that you can remove things. But I always figured that if something is permanent, it should be welded

 

[flexfab]

I'm just a firm believer in a couple grade 8 bolts are stronger than welds. Welding haste it's place but welds fail more often than bolts.

I have to call bs on this one. And you learned that bolts in shear position are stronger than welds in what metallurgy class? As for "welds fail more often than bolts"? True - crappy welds in the correct stress will fail 100% of the time. I can assure you I know what I'm talking about on this - I have a degree in metallurgy and was certified to weld on nuclear submarines back in the day. Now I build Rangers.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Ok bear with me here I'm on a iPhone so i can't get the pictures perfect to show what I'm talking about.
I said that because a ranger, Bll frame isn't boxed so there for it flexes. If he were to weld to the outside of his frame, the bottom of the frame like he's saying he wants to do then that causes stiffer spots in high stress areas of the frame. When he's out wheeling and flexing his suspension out his frame will flex too. If he runs his welds like he said he wants to his frame will crack in 2-4 spots. I marked them in red.View attachment 8713


That's going to happen unless he either beefs his frame up or changes his hanger design.
View attachment 8715


If he turns this peice around so the solid side sits against his frame then drills holes in it where I labeled A,B,C,D in the picture below then put in 1.5"x3/8 bolts it would be less likely to fail on him.
View attachment 8714
Drill holes at A,B,C and two spaced 2" apart at D.

 

[koa's93ranger]

Ok bear with me here I'm on a iPhone so i can't get the pictures perfect to show what I'm talking about.
I said that because a ranger, Bll frame isn't boxed so there for it flexes. If he were to weld to the outside of his frame, the bottom of the frame like he's saying he wants to do then that causes stiffer spots in high stress areas of the frame. When he's out wheeling and flexing his suspension out his frame will flex too. If he runs his welds like he said he wants to his frame will crack in 2-4 spots. I marked them in red.View attachment 8713


That's going to happen unless he either beefs his frame up or changes his hanger design.
View attachment 8715


If he turns this peice around so the solid side sits against his frame then drills holes in it where I labeled A,B,C,D in the picture below then put in 1.5"x3/8 bolts it would be less likely to fail on him.
View attachment 8714
Drill holes at A,B,C and two spaced 2" apart at D.

I was planning on boxing in the frame in that area. But I'm not sure how much it will help. Your design does make a lot of sense and that would have been an easier way for me to go. But I already cut up my last pieces of 4x4 steel and it's not cut at a 90 degree angle. More like 70 degrees. And if I were to trim it to 90 degrees, it would end up a lot shorter, so the brace won't reach the full height of the frame rail

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

I was planning on boxing in the frame in that area. But I'm not sure how much it will help. Your design does make a lot of sense and that would have been an easier way for me to go. But I already cut up my last pieces of 4x4 steel and it's not cut at a 90 degree angle. More like 70 degrees. And if I were to trim it to 90 degrees, it would end up a lot shorter, so the brace won't reach the full height of the frame rail

I hope I didn't come off as a know it all or a dick. I only wanted to give you another option. After the bs flag was flown on me I tried to clarify on what I was picturing in my head. Your plan is a good one and it will work. I just prefer to bolt stuff on. I'm gonna end up building a similar mount for the rear bed mounts for a rig I'm gonna hopefully start on next month.

 

[flexfab]

Ok bear with me here I'm on a iPhone so i can't get the pictures perfect to show what I'm talking about.
I said that because a ranger, Bll frame isn't boxed so there for it flexes. If he were to weld to the outside of his frame, the bottom of the frame like he's saying he wants to do then that causes stiffer spots in high stress areas of the frame. When he's out wheeling and flexing his suspension out his frame will flex too. If he runs his welds like he said he wants to his frame will crack in 2-4 spots. I marked them in red.View attachment 8713


That's going to happen unless he either beefs his frame up or changes his hanger design.
View attachment 8715


If he turns this peice around so the solid side sits against his frame then drills holes in it where I labeled A,B,C,D in the picture below then put in 1.5"x3/8 bolts it would be less likely to fail on him.
View attachment 8714
Drill holes at A,B,C and two spaced 2" apart at D.

I agree with you on bolting the springs hangers on - it's a way better idea on many levels. The stock spring hangers are riveted on. What I took issue with was your statement that a grade 8 bolt used in a shear position was stronger than a correct weld.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

You'd obviously know more about shearing and stuff since you've been trained to weld in/on subs and all that cool shit.
But in order for the weld to be correct the metal would have to be placed at the right angle. A weld that would be running straight up and down the frame would weaken the frame. In order to make it as strong as possible the supports would need to run on a angle in a V shape. A proper weld would then be several times stronger than grade 8 bolts.

 

[koa's93ranger]

I hope I didn't come off as a know it all or a dick. I only wanted to give you another option. After the bs flag was flown on me I tried to clarify on what I was picturing in my head. Your plan is a good one and it will work. I just prefer to bolt stuff on. I'm gonna end up building a similar mount for the rear bed mounts for a rig I'm gonna hopefully start on next month.

I didn't take it in a negative way. I'm always looking for advice and criticism to help make my build a little better. That's what one should expect when posting on a public forum. But now you guys got me worried. Should I change my mounting design while everything is still tacked together? I'd much rather spend the $40 on new steel and do it right than run into a cracked frame down the road

 

[koa's93ranger]

I agree with you on bolting the springs hangers on - it's a way better idea on many levels. The stock spring hangers are riveted on. What I took issue with was your statement that a grade 8 bolt used in a shear position was stronger than a correct weld.

So you also agree that bolting it on would be better? I see what you're saying about it being factory riveted. If they didn't weld it, why should I. They have all the bugs worked out and tested and proven.

So what do you think about my front mount? It's gonna all be solidly mounted to my frame boxes. Is this a bad idea?

 

[koa's93ranger]

The only reason why I welded it was because every leaf sprung sas I've seen had the rear mounts welded on. Only very few were bolted on. And so far no one has had issues with a cracked frame at those mounts. What makes my design so different that it raises the chances of a failure?

 

[Ford78]

Mine is all welded too. i have seen alot of people weld on their frames and not have any problems.

 

[koa's93ranger]

Mine is all welded too. i have seen alot of people weld on their frames and not have any problems.

Exactly. So if anyone can please clarify my design for me, I would really appreciate it. I leave Hawaii this Sunday and would like to know what direction to take my build before I get home so I can get on it

 

[koa's93ranger]

Anybody?