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kit to convert remote shift to manual?


oldford2

New Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
1
Age
86
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Automatic
I am trouble-shooting my 92 Ranger remote shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel. Dis-assembled the motor and cleaned the brushes - no good. Now going to check the dash control module and fuses and relays. I heard there may be a kit to shift manually. Anyone hear of such a kit? Thanks
Oldford2
 
yep, ford made a kit, get the same transfercase configuration in a manual version as well as the shifter, floor plate and boot. It will bolt right in.
 
Where can these kits be purchased from? Also, will it work on newer models as well?
 
He was kidding.. There is no "conversion kit". What you need to do is go to a junkyard and get a manual shift version of your transfer case. It is a direct bolt in other than the floor plate for the manual shifter. The whole job can be done in a day if you have the right tools. All you have to do then is grab the lever and pull.
 
He was kidding.. There is no "conversion kit". What you need to do is go to a junkyard and get a manual shift version of your transfer case. It is a direct bolt in other than the floor plate for the manual shifter. The whole job can be done in a day if you have the right tools. All you have to do then is grab the lever and pull.

He had my hopes up. :sad: From what I hear from AllenD, it is a little more involved for my truck (having to change flanges on the transfer case) and having to find a new drive shaft for the front axle. Still debating if it is worth the trouble.
 
a 1354 is a bolt in swap if you can find one. a 1350 will require the driveline to be swapped from a 1350 truck.
 
a 1354 is a bolt in swap if you can find one. a 1350 will require the driveline to be swapped from a 1350 truck.

Go with the 1354, I tried to do the swap with a 1350 and it's just too many headaches switching yokes, shortening front drive shaft and not having the proper linkage. This way it will be done right. The are a few 1354's out there, just hard to find. I did find a salvage yard in Florida that has an extra one and comes with a 6 month guarantee. If you need their number pm me.
 
Go with the 1354, I tried to do the swap with a 1350 and it's just too many headaches switching yokes, shortening front drive shaft and not having the proper linkage. This way it will be done right. The are a few 1354's out there, just hard to find. I did find a salvage yard in Florida that has an extra one and comes with a 6 month guarantee. If you need their number pm me.

i did a swap with a 1350 all i had to do is put a pipe wrench on the yoke and turn the nut with a 30mm socket plus a little locktite when you put it on the other one as far as the front drive shaft the one off the donor truck with the 1350 fit perfectly if you put the slip into the transfer case first you can lift the truck by the frame far enough to pop the front universal in place after the front axle has droped. there is no binding and mine works i even have enough left to jack the entire truck by the front axle and it doesnt run out. as for the floor pan i went to a junk yard and bought one for 10 dollars(15 if i didn't get it myself) so it aint that hard :headbang:
 
what yoke are you guys talking about?

a 1350 swap is quite easy (and 100% bolt-in) if you get the right parts from the beginning. a shift linkage from an A4LD or M5OD is needed, as the mitsu transmissions used different linkages. the front drive line is needed if replacing a 1354 since the drive lines attach to the cases differently (the line does not need to be shortened). and lastly you need to remember to grab the floor plate, shift boot and trim (the hole for the shifter is already in the sheet metal, its a simple matter of swapping out a metal plate and trimming the carpet).
 
what yoke are you guys talking about?

a 1350 swap is quite easy (and 100% bolt-in) if you get the right parts from the beginning. a shift linkage from an A4LD or M5OD is needed, as the mitsu transmissions used different linkages. the front drive line is needed if replacing a 1354 since the drive lines attach to the cases differently (the line does not need to be shortened). and lastly you need to remember to grab the floor plate, shift boot and trim (the hole for the shifter is already in the sheet metal, its a simple matter of swapping out a metal plate and trimming the carpet).

the rear yoke on a 1354 is a flat flange type while the 1350 is a direct universal joint type both are held on by a 30mm nut. u are right about the front drive shaft but it needs to be off the donor truck to fit the current truck. i just did one on my 94 with a t-case out of a 88 no prob at all
 
the rear yoke on a 1354 is a flat flange type while the 1350 is a direct universal joint type both are held on by a 30mm nut. u are right about the front drive shaft but it needs to be off the donor truck to fit the current truck. i just did one on my 94 with a t-case out of a 88 no prob at all

The older 1350's had a u-joint rear output, but the late model 1350's I believe from 1986 or 1987-1990 use a flat plate just like the 1354.
 
The older 1350's had a u-joint rear output, but the late model 1350's I believe from 1986 or 1987-1990 use a flat plate just like the 1354.

i did the swap on my 94 ranger with a 1354 electric case and got the new to me manual case from a 88 ranger with a 1350 manual case. thats what i was going by. ford may have done that on some but that was my situation and the donor ranger was so bone stock with a blown tranny
 
The older 1350's had a u-joint rear output, but the late model 1350's I believe from 1986 or 1987-1990 use a flat plate just like the 1354.

that would make sense. my 1350 has the flat flange style output on it and my rear driveline from my 1354 bolted right to it. i never even knew the 1350 came with the yoke-style output.
 
The earlier models came with a yoke. That is when they used a real driveshaft, and not the double cardon POS.
 

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