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Keys, Ignition Cylinders, and....PATS?


Dabblingman

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2024
Messages
24
City
Seattle, WA
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
Hi all,

1999 Mazda B3000 Troy Lee (in others words, 99 Ford Ranger, V6 3.0). Got VERY used, been having a time of it.

Today, while swapping out the battery, the ONE ignition key broke off. In half (see pic). Fudge (my word had four letters). The ignition cylinder was already messed from being broken into (previous owner says). Key was bent and weakened. It was the only key.

SO, thinking about going the pick and pull. I have read conflicting reports. I know the keys and the ignition cylinder need to match. Do I need to also pull a PATS module from the SAME truck at pick and pull? Does it have to match the key and cylinder? So many posts feel conflicting and confusing on this point.

Thanks in advance.

ADDED: Oh crap, do I *also* need to get a matching ECM ???????????
 

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Last edited:
Not sure, but this might work if you want to try and get it running cheap.

If you can get a new cylinder with a non-PATS key, mount (glue) your broken key inside the column trim as close to the PATS antenna as you can. The broken key can be cut shorter, and I know that on the early PATS keys the transponder capsule itself could be removed from the key head by popping off a tiny door.
 
I do like cheap. And simpler. So, does the ignition cylinder have anything to do with this? And is the transponder in the big black part of the key, not the drilled metal part?

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!
 
If you cannot pull the key out of the ignition switch, look at this:

 
So, does the ignition cylinder have anything to do with this?

The cylinder, with the right key, simply rotates and operates the electrical ignition switch.

The PATS is a separate but parallel system; the transponder is excited by the antenna around the key cylinder, and transmits a code back to the antenna. The computers (the root of all evil) in the truck allow it to run if the code is correct.

And is the transponder in the big black part of the key, not the drilled metal part?

Yes. Ford uses (at least in 1996) the TIRIS transponder; it looks like a glass capsule, and is imbedded in the black plastic key head. Look on the heel of the key head, and see if there's a tiny door (it'll be very faint). If so, the door can be picked and pried out and the transponder capsule can be removed.

I do like cheap.

We must belong to the same tribe!
 
I think they have you on the right track. I wanted to say that you do not need or want to pull the PATS module from a donor vehicle, it's not going to help your situation. The problem is that the PATS is a separate module, but is "married" to the ECU. When you try to start the truck the key has to be registered with the PATS module, but the PATS module also has to be matched to the ECU.

If you replace the PATS module with the ignition switch, the key may be registered with the module, but the module is not matched to the ECU, so it will create the same issue as a non registered key. It's the same work to register the new key with the existing PATS module as to register a new pats module with the ECU, and it's less work to keep your existing module.

If you are computer savy and don't mind spending a few bucks on a OBD-II adapter, a program called ForSCAN can be used to program new keys without an existing one. If you do need to replace the PATS module, it can also be to register it with the ECU. The program can also be used to pull codes, data log, run system tests and other things. Useful tool and most of the things can be done with the free version so only costs for the OBD adapter.
 
So as has been mentioned, the chip key, the PATS module, and the computer (ECU) are all linked. There’s multiple ways to go about it.

You certainly can tape/zip tie/whatever either the broken key or the chip from the head of the key to the column near the antenna ring and it will work until it doesn’t. Which may or may not be long enough and is the least secure method. You will also want to run a non-chipped key then for the ignition to prevent interference.

You can grab the ignition cylinder, key, PATS, and ECU out of a matching donor and swap it all, but that’s a lot of messing around because the module is buried in the dash. Of course, you’re also going to have some trouble getting the old key cylinder out without destroying the column, but that applies to everything.

A laptop with Forscan and an OBD2 adapter will let you marry a new key to the PATS and ECU. Then you just need a key (or couple keys) and new cylinder. If you want the door locks to match, grab them out of a junkyard vehicle.

Oh, and your year range for keys and cylinders is kinda small, 99 and 00 if memory serves correctly, but if you’re just replacing the keys and cylinder(s), it can be out of any Ranger or B-series that has a key that looks like yours in that year range.
 
It was the only key
Because you only have one key, you will need to replace the cylinder, have two keys cut, with a scanner perform 'Parameter Reset', 'Ignition Key Erase All Keys', then program two keys.

I've had success doing it with an Autel about 50% of the time, for the problem cars, had to use FJDS (Ford's programming software) with a J2534 device.
 
Because you only have one key, you will need to replace the cylinder, have two keys cut, with a scanner perform 'Parameter Reset', 'Ignition Key Erase All Keys', then program two keys.

I've had success doing it with an Autel about 50% of the time, for the problem cars, had to use FJDS (Ford's programming software) with a J2534 device.
Technically only one key is needed and no need to delete all keys, but I usually recommend a minimum of two keys, then delete all of the old keys after confirming the two new keys program. As long as the new keys program successfully, I’ve not had a problem with Forscan for doing it. The problem is non-Strattec (Ford’s licensed key manufacturer) keys don’t always successfully program.
 
You are talking about using the 'Add Key' function?
 
I want to thank you all for the info and experience - so great!

After reading a bit, in total desperation I took the broken key, and tried it in the broken ignition and the golldarn thing started! OMG!!!!!!! So, I have a little time to make a more formal fix. I've done computer work, so feel capable of doing that, but I can breathe and drive it again (for a little while) while I attend to this.

Thank you all - what a great community!
 
I've had success doing it with an Autel about 50% of the time, for the problem cars, had to use FJDS (Ford's programming software) with a J2534 device.

:threadjacked:

Going to thread jack a bit. FJDS, where do you get it? Can it be used with any laptop and J2534 device. I've been wondering about getting access to that and the IDS software, but was unsure about the hardware side.
 
Cool, does it require an account or subscription?

I'm not certain if the FJDS will do what I had in mind, but I'll check it out some more. Main idea was to match PCM vin to vehicle VIN for replacements and swaps. Not an issue in most places, but some checks do compare PCM vin to vehicle and automatic fail if it doesn't match. I know I read about people using IDS for it, but for me it's probably not worth the expense of buying the VCI to use it.
 
Cool, does it require an account or subscription?
Yes. You'll have to make an account, then some sort of subscription. There are short-term subscriptions.

FJDS will do VIN writes, but it's not a separate menu item. It's accomplished with "Programmable Module Installation" which updates the VID block with the correct vehicle options, writes the VIN and checks the module for updates. Key programming and security handshakes are in a different menu.
 

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