- Joined
- Nov 15, 2024
- Messages
- 100
- Points
- 101
- Age
- 64
- City
- Brookhaven
- State - Country
- MS - USA
- Other
- 2021 Bronco Badlands 2 Door
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- Skyjacker Leveling Coils
- Tire Size
- 31x10.5x15
Introduction Using a Ford/Lincoln wired keyless entry Keypad and Autolock function in a Ranger using similar year Ford parts.
Difficulty 3 out 10
Time Spent 3 hours
Tools and Parts needed:
about 5 feet of appropriate colored wire for keypad (several wires have similar colors so it can be easy to be confused)
Wire stripper
electrical tape
zip ties
solder
wire loom
RAP module from Ranger or Explorer
Keypad from 90s Ford/Lincoln/Mercury
Connector pins from Explorer RAP
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
My ‘96 2.3 MT standard cab was no frills: crank windows, manual locks, no cruise or foglights, and of course, no keyless entry/antitheft. That changed when I came across the factory fog light brackets in the junkyard. I snatched them up and got as much wiring as I could. After I installed that I was on a mission: to outfit my Ranger with everything the factory offered and more. Following the Ford diagrams, I installed power locks. On another trip to the junkyard, I found the holy Grail. A Ranger with a GEM for power windows and RAP and the RAP module for the keyless entry/antitheft. So again, following the Ford diagrams, I hooked up the power windows and the keyless entry and ordered a fob from Amazon. It was easy to program and it worked great. So then I looked into the other things that the RAP module could do. On the Explorer, you could have a wired keypad and autolock. But would this work using the Ranger RAP or did I need to get the module from the Explorer? I decided to try so I got a few keypads from different Ford and Lincoln vehicles and the extra wires from an Explorer module.
RAP from a Ranger. Only offered on extended cabs so I got it behind my seat so I can get to it easily.
Keypad from a 1994 Lincoln Towncar. I ended up using a keypad from a 1999 Continental because the lights worked. There are 7 wires that go to the RAP and 1 ground wire.
Keypad Diagram
22 Pin RAP Connector-you'll need Pin 15, LB wire
26 Pin RAP connector. You will need Pins 5, 6, 7, 8,12, 15, 19, 26 (If you don't want Autolock you can omit Pins 12 and 26)
So I hooked it up roughly and put in the code which is on the outside of the module. It worked great. But I was extremely nervous about cutting a hole in my door. Because there would not be any going back if I messed up. So I toyed around with other ideas on where to put it. I really just wanted it because I wanted to be able to get into my truck if I didn’t have my keys with me. I thought about the wheel well, the front grille, or the bed. I finally picked a spot right above the license plate that would not be very noticeable, but I could easily get to it.
So I depinned the 7 pins from the Explorer connector and added them to my connector.
Then I ordered several feet of colored wire. I removed the driver’s seat and carpet. Under there, you will see a large grommet with a harness going through it. I drilled a small hole to the side of it and put my new seven wire harness through that.
Then I routed the harness down the frame toward the back bumper, where I attached it behind the bumper. There was a hole in the frame where I put a bolt so I could ground the keypad. This is what the finish product looks like.
So using the auto lock feature was a lot easier. I added the two pins to my connector, a light green wire and a black/pink wire. Remember that original harness that went through the big grommet under the driver seat? The two wires you need are running right there. So I carefully opened up the loom and found those two wires. If you do this be very careful not to cut anything. Also, there are two other wires that are light green but have stripes. I triple checked to make sure I tapped into the right wire. There is only one black/pink wire in there so it was easy. there is a pink/black wire so don't tap that one. These two wires are for the reverse light and the brake light. So I tapped into those two wires and then taped everything up.
The auto lock feature was only offered on automatic transmissions so I didn’t know for sure if it would work on my manual. In order to enable the system, you put in the factory code, then you press the 7/8 button on the keypad and hold it. Then press, the 3/4 button And release it. The horn will chirp if it’s disabled and it will chirp and then a longer honk when it is enabled. So I did that and you have to hold the brake down, put it in reverse and then when you put it in first gear and takeoff, the locks will lock. I know this is something that probably most of you wouldn’t care about and I don’t know that I really do either, but it was really easy to do, so I did it. Since all of this worked with the original Ranger RAP module, I figured out that if anyone wanted the keyless entry/ antitheft/autolock features, you could get the module from a similar year Explorer, which are very plentiful.
As far as all of this working with later models that use PATS, I have no idea. You would need to do your own research on that. Anyway, I enjoyed this little project. I’ve gotten several compliments on my keypad.
Author: My father left this Ranger to me when he died and every improvement is in his honor. I have also added factory cruise from an Explorer and plan on suspension and drivetrain updates. I also have a 2021 Bronco Badlands 2 Door but I honestly get more enjoyment from this Ranger.
Difficulty 3 out 10
Time Spent 3 hours
Tools and Parts needed:
about 5 feet of appropriate colored wire for keypad (several wires have similar colors so it can be easy to be confused)
Wire stripper
electrical tape
zip ties
solder
wire loom
RAP module from Ranger or Explorer
Keypad from 90s Ford/Lincoln/Mercury
Connector pins from Explorer RAP
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
My ‘96 2.3 MT standard cab was no frills: crank windows, manual locks, no cruise or foglights, and of course, no keyless entry/antitheft. That changed when I came across the factory fog light brackets in the junkyard. I snatched them up and got as much wiring as I could. After I installed that I was on a mission: to outfit my Ranger with everything the factory offered and more. Following the Ford diagrams, I installed power locks. On another trip to the junkyard, I found the holy Grail. A Ranger with a GEM for power windows and RAP and the RAP module for the keyless entry/antitheft. So again, following the Ford diagrams, I hooked up the power windows and the keyless entry and ordered a fob from Amazon. It was easy to program and it worked great. So then I looked into the other things that the RAP module could do. On the Explorer, you could have a wired keypad and autolock. But would this work using the Ranger RAP or did I need to get the module from the Explorer? I decided to try so I got a few keypads from different Ford and Lincoln vehicles and the extra wires from an Explorer module.
RAP from a Ranger. Only offered on extended cabs so I got it behind my seat so I can get to it easily.
Keypad from a 1994 Lincoln Towncar. I ended up using a keypad from a 1999 Continental because the lights worked. There are 7 wires that go to the RAP and 1 ground wire.
Keypad Diagram
22 Pin RAP Connector-you'll need Pin 15, LB wire
26 Pin RAP connector. You will need Pins 5, 6, 7, 8,12, 15, 19, 26 (If you don't want Autolock you can omit Pins 12 and 26)
So I hooked it up roughly and put in the code which is on the outside of the module. It worked great. But I was extremely nervous about cutting a hole in my door. Because there would not be any going back if I messed up. So I toyed around with other ideas on where to put it. I really just wanted it because I wanted to be able to get into my truck if I didn’t have my keys with me. I thought about the wheel well, the front grille, or the bed. I finally picked a spot right above the license plate that would not be very noticeable, but I could easily get to it.
So I depinned the 7 pins from the Explorer connector and added them to my connector.
Then I ordered several feet of colored wire. I removed the driver’s seat and carpet. Under there, you will see a large grommet with a harness going through it. I drilled a small hole to the side of it and put my new seven wire harness through that.
Then I routed the harness down the frame toward the back bumper, where I attached it behind the bumper. There was a hole in the frame where I put a bolt so I could ground the keypad. This is what the finish product looks like.
So using the auto lock feature was a lot easier. I added the two pins to my connector, a light green wire and a black/pink wire. Remember that original harness that went through the big grommet under the driver seat? The two wires you need are running right there. So I carefully opened up the loom and found those two wires. If you do this be very careful not to cut anything. Also, there are two other wires that are light green but have stripes. I triple checked to make sure I tapped into the right wire. There is only one black/pink wire in there so it was easy. there is a pink/black wire so don't tap that one. These two wires are for the reverse light and the brake light. So I tapped into those two wires and then taped everything up.
The auto lock feature was only offered on automatic transmissions so I didn’t know for sure if it would work on my manual. In order to enable the system, you put in the factory code, then you press the 7/8 button on the keypad and hold it. Then press, the 3/4 button And release it. The horn will chirp if it’s disabled and it will chirp and then a longer honk when it is enabled. So I did that and you have to hold the brake down, put it in reverse and then when you put it in first gear and takeoff, the locks will lock. I know this is something that probably most of you wouldn’t care about and I don’t know that I really do either, but it was really easy to do, so I did it. Since all of this worked with the original Ranger RAP module, I figured out that if anyone wanted the keyless entry/ antitheft/autolock features, you could get the module from a similar year Explorer, which are very plentiful.
As far as all of this working with later models that use PATS, I have no idea. You would need to do your own research on that. Anyway, I enjoyed this little project. I’ve gotten several compliments on my keypad.
Author: My father left this Ranger to me when he died and every improvement is in his honor. I have also added factory cruise from an Explorer and plan on suspension and drivetrain updates. I also have a 2021 Bronco Badlands 2 Door but I honestly get more enjoyment from this Ranger.
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