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K&N Filter Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Quartermile
  • Start date Start date

What air filter do you use in your Ranger?

  • Factory

    Votes: 11 52.4%
  • K&N factory replacement

    Votes: 6 28.6%
  • Intake tube type (K&N FIPK or similar)

    Votes: 2 9.5%
  • Universal type clamped onto the intake

    Votes: 1 4.8%
  • Custom built

    Votes: 1 4.8%
  • Snorkel

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • NONE?

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    21

Quartermile

Guest
I have the factory type replacement K&N filter, and it needs to be cleaned. K&N suggests their cleaner and filter oil, but I don't see why I cant clean it with Brakleen or solvent and then just put it back in without oil. I assume that the oil doesn't do that much "cleaning" but just traps the dirt faster. So anyway . . .the question is what do you know of that I can use to clean the filter without ruining it, and not paying for a K&N service kit. And why do you need the oil or not.
 
You need the oil to get the holes in the filter small enough to catch some of the smaller particles that are entering your engine.. In any event that filter allows more dirt into your engine than most of the older guys here will stand for..
Your best bet is to throw that crap away and put a real filter in there that will insure no dirt in the engine.
Big JIm
 
In any event that filter allows more dirt into your engine than most of the older guys here will stand for..
Big JIm

Well thats not right . . .the factory paper filter had 50k miles on it when I changed to the K&N, which is dirtier than the paper after only 20k miles
 
You just

Well thats not right . . .the factory paper filter had 50k miles on it when I changed to the K&N, which is dirtier than the paper after only 20k miles

need to do a little more research.. The factory filter stops smaller particles than ANY K&N type filter. If the K&N is properly oiled it is SUPPOSED to stop particles of the same size as the factory type.. But after only 100 or so miles the oil on the filter has moved around and opened up larger holes that then allow larger particles to enter the engine..
If the damn things actually WORKED, race cars would use them.. BUT no racers use other than factory type filters.
I see K&N stickers on race cars and when the hood is raised there lies a factory filter.
Simply put.. Them cone shaped or other oiled filters are junk! One takes a huge risk by using one.. Specially on an offroad vehicle.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 
You must reoil a K&N in order for it to actually trap the dirt. This is a must.

Secondly, Jim, I dont know about down there, but around here we use K&N without any problems....even on race cars. Hell, most of em have a K&N. Works for my buddies 9 second DSM.
 
Them don't count!

You must reoil a K&N in order for it to actually trap the dirt. This is a must.

Secondly, Jim, I dont know about down there, but around here we use K&N without any problems....even on race cars. Hell, most of em have a K&N. Works for my buddies 9 second DSM.

1/4 milers don't have to have ANY filters. I'm talking about real race cars. Ones that run at over 9,000 rpm for 500 miles.. Real professional race cars.
1/4 milers can use anything that will get them a little more advertising money.
Truly, as the oil goes away the holes in them filters get bigger and bigger and so they pass bigger and bigger particles of dirt.
Factory filters catch all of the dirt and as they get older and older they slowly fill up with the same dirt the -hotrod- filters are passing into the piston rings and cylinder walls.
Big Jim:hottubfun::wub:
 
i use an autozone $20 filter that is probably made out of the same stuff a K&N is made out of and it is cleanable too. i usually clean them a couple times and then toss it after 3 years and get a new one.

PA180005.jpg
 
1/4 milers don't have to have ANY filters. I'm talking about real race cars. Ones that run at over 9,000 rpm for 500 miles.. Real professional race cars.
1/4 milers can use anything that will get them a little more advertising money.

This is his personal car, no sponsor...it sees 10K+ shifts :headbang:

Either way, I use them and have never had a problem.

AEM makes a decent filter too that does not require oil.
 
ive done tests on my 99 4.0. used the fram heavy duty filter and a k&n. both kept my oil jsut about as clean over 3 months of average driving and with neither one have i noticed MPG increases. believe wat ever you want a filter is a filter is a filter. i got lucky and got my k&n when they were giving the cleaning kits free with them. ive had no problems with my MAF or anything. i just like bein able to clean my filter cuz i like to do it often. otherwise i go through paper filters like crazy
 
Factory filters in all 3 of my RBV's.
My 91 does have the stock box with a cowl snorkel.
 
the k&n recharge kit is less than $15 and you get a lot of uses out of it, it should last you at least a couple years. i've had K&N filters in my 97 and my 98, i like 'em.
 
ii have the K&N snorkel kit only because we were sponsored by them in our racing program and it was free....i noticed NO performance or mileage gain at all, it does make the engine sound different when stomping on the gas pedal.....and best of all when the truck decides to howl...it is 10 times as loud as the stock air box.....my suggestion is stay with the stock box and a good paper element. Spend your money on something else ! ! !
 

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