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Just an idea. Go fast truck


aaron88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
95
Age
32
City
Las Vegas
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
I've been throwing the idea around of building a go fast street truck for quite some time now. Coming from a prerunner offroad racing back ground fabrication isn't an issue. I've been thinking of building a set of 3in drop beams that are 3 inches wider per side. ditching the coil springs for a pair of 2.5 8inch coilovers. Building the beams with Heims along with all of the other front suspension components do more or less a strut braise over the top of the engine too add some torsional support. Then in the rear running a four link with a pair of 2.5 10inch coilovers again all Heimed connections then a custom sway bar too keep body roll down too a minimum with that style of suspension. Then swapping the rear end out for an explorer 3.73 LSD disk break 8.8. Putting some nice wide 12-14inch tires out back 10in wide tires up front. Body wise I'd swap all the fenders out for 4in flared fenders. Power plant would be a mildly built 347 stroker paired with a 5 speed. In my mind the truck would handle pretty good cornering and straight line. Opinions ideas?



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I think you'd still have issues with hooking up because all your weight is on the front wheels, not the back.
 
All you need is a jet engine, and you can go really fast.
 
I was thinking fuel cell behind the rear axle. For a bit of weight other then that battery and everything back there. Has just been a thought.


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Definitely be different. As James mentioned I think its all a waste without improving weight distribution, but coming from a pre-runner background I imagine that you were already planning to address that. IMO with the bulged flared fenders and larger wheel openings, I think it would look stupid as shit if running around on street truck sized tires. On the flip side if running taller tires to fill out the wheel wells it offsets all the other plans for making a street truck. If you could flare out the fenders with stock sized openings and make them look right then you may be onto something. It is true that wider track width can make for better handling with same wheelbase, that's where the idea of wide body kits for cars came from before it was bastardized into a fashion statement.

I've seen one person build a good road course Ranger from a I-beam based truck. What the guy did was to build a custom SLA suspension to replace the beam suspension and fit the widest meats the truck could handle. All links and references to the build that I once had are now gone. The guy has the truck on his website and a picture gallery that you might be able to get some ideas from, but he has since sold the truck. You may be able to contact him for more info. Here's a link to the truck's page on his site, the gallery is below the first video. >> 1995 Ford Ranger Road Race Pick-Up <<

In throwing that truck out there I'm not saying that an I-beam Ranger can't handle. I'm sure that it can even if it's not the best suspension choice for the job. I know I've seen them autocross. I don't know the real differences between autocross and road course, but I believe it can be done and intend to prove it eventually. I'll try it starting out with DJM beams and leaf springs. If I upgrade from that it'll be to Mustang II and 4 link. I just wanted to mentioned that truck since you said that you have no problem with fabrication.
 
Was thinking about a 30in tall tire. But then again it depends on what is available.


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I think that even with relocating the tank, a 347 is just to much weight in the front unless you went with an all aluminum engine and a dry sump oiling setup (if money isn't a big deal).
A 2.3T would be my choice for power/lightweight while still keeping the cost realtively low. Since you don't seem to be afraid of a little fab work, a Duratec 2.3T would be super lightweight, and have more power potential than the Lima 2.3's.

I do like the idea of widening the trackwidth. There's an S10 that runs autocross events that uses prerunner style flared fenders/bedsides. It looks a bit goofy without lowering the wheel arches, but it definitely gets the job done. Here's the build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=561670
 
Piggy-backing off what he ^ said, you may be able to push the motor back a bit to even out the weight distribution, but that would involve recessing the firewall and/or moving the cab back, bobbing the bed etc...
 
Piggy-backing off what he ^ said, you may be able to push the motor back a bit to even out the weight distribution, but that would involve recessing the firewall and/or moving the cab back, bobbing the bed etc...

I know a guy that did just that in his prerunner. It makes the cab real tight if it's a standard cab. He is a small guy and it works for him but I would never fit in it.
 
Well I was thinking of pushing it back like 6-8inches and possibly down depending on if I could get it too fit correctly but I'm also 6 foot 200lbs so I don't know how well I'd fit in a single cab with that.


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As for weight I'd put everything back there. Two batteries, fuel tank, ammo cans with extra oil/random parts, possibly a jack and spare if there is a spot it wouldent be a road trip truck that's for sure.


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it can and has been done.

as much as i love offroad rigs, a clean go fast street truck done right is awesome.

check out Spike TV's project rolling thunder. tons of weight distribution tricks, etc.
 
As for weight I'd put everything back there. Two batteries, fuel tank, ammo cans with extra oil/random parts, possibly a jack and spare if there is a spot]

Adding weight is never the way to get good handling. I ran an autocross this past weekend, and my boosted v6 ranger was laying down faster times than SRT Challengers/ Chargers and a Fox Body with a nice 347. It's not because I had more power, it's because they were to heavy, or overpowered for what they were doing.
If you want a Good handling truck, remove weight where you can by eliminating unnecessary things, relocate weight to balance it out, and keep the power at a useable level. It does no good to have 500hp and not be able to put the power down.
 
^^^ I agree.
If I was to do my truck over again I would start with an sla front end. I would check the rules for the type of racing I want to do and then plan out the modifications. I'm too far into my truck to change directions now and kind of kicking my a$s for not researching a bit better.
My low buck build thread;
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79003
It's built for short course off-road but the track is shut down. I wish it was closer to stock so I could rally it in a class, tho with a little work I can still rally in a modified class but I won't be competitive. All the road courses close by don't seem to want a truck on the track :dunno: Ice racers don't want me either :shok: Rally cross is also iffy for my truck :annoyed:
Good luck,

Richard
 

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