Journal: Replacing my rocker arms and push rods on 1993 Ranger 4.0

[ryanthevan]

I guess a question I have is whether I should do something with the valves as well, as there was (probably?) some wear on those since they made indents on the rocker arm pedestals. I don't want to replace rods/rockers and there still be some play do to some wear on the valves. But also don't really want to do that if not necessary obviously.

Valve change seems like a whole thing. So planning on sticking with just rockers/rods for now unless someone thinks contrary.

 

[SenorNoob]

That'd be the way I go. It may not completely cure the problem, but will most definitely help. Especially with that pic of your old pushrods.

 

[ryanthevan]

Just replaced the rockers. Just follow this video for exact walk thru:

 

[SenorNoob]

Have you run it yet? How does it sound?

 

[ryanthevan]

just hooked everything back up. just need to torque down the upper intake manifold (13mm at 16ftlbs) and will start her up tomorrow. Will check if oil needs topping off, then run it a couple mins with old oil to bring it up to temp, then do an oil change. I've got a bunch of green liqui moly ill be swapping in. going to drop the pan, replace gasket, swap in magnetic plug. But hopefully it starts and runs smoothly beforehand . One of the rocker arms on each side (closest to the front of the vehicle) didn't seat completely flush after torquing to spec (24ftlbs + 90degrees). So hopefully those seat upon start up, or maybe there will still be a clack from those. But hey, better than them all clacking.

Will report back!

Next up will be dealing with my coolant issue. It doesn't seem to have a coolant leak anywhere, but there's a ton of sludge buildup and what appears to be glitter (reminder that I just recently got this vehicle with minimal maintenance history). Going to do a coolant flush and swap when the temps warm up, and a rinse with evaporust thermocare. But this may be the next project......

Photos attached of just some of the sidewall sludge i was able to scrape off the coolant reservoir with a chisel.

 

[ryanthevan]

Just replaced the rockers. Just follow this video for exact walk thru:

If anyone is following this journal on their own truck, the guy in this video has a 13-part series of him rebuilding his 1993 Ranger. Definitely check out his playlist for all the videos. Very helpful.

 

[bobbywalter]

liqui moly....with a fram filter.



imagine that.

 

[ryanthevan]

I’m a big enough noob not to know whether you’re kidding or not lol. I know basic fram filters aren’t well regarded. But I bought the ultra synthetic one that had good ratings.

Amazon.com

Would you recommend something else?

 

[ryanthevan]

Upon startup everything looks and sounds good! About 70% reduction in clacking noise. And using a stethoscope it seems as if the remaining noise is coming from the front side of both valve covers. And it is those two rocker arms and rods that still had a tiny gap before torquing to spec. But idk if that’ll become a problem again until well after the remaining life of this vehicle.

I wasn’t able to torque the valve covers to spec because I don’t have an inch pounds wrench. But tightened as evenly as possible. Two bolts (luckily the easiest to access) have some residual coming out of them that seems to be growing. Maybe that means I need to tighten a bit more? Attached pics of the “bad” and “normal” bolt heads for reference.

otherwise fun and successful project!

 

[SenorNoob]

You are missing the spreaders on those valve cover bolts.
They're visible in this picture:

I'm not gonna say your truck had them, but my first engine didn't and I couldn't keep the bolts tight. I came to the conclusion that the bolts were hitting the bottom of the hole at the same time as they put a little tension on the gasket. I had to re-tighten every oil change.

 

[bobbywalter]

I’m a big enough noob not to know whether you’re kidding or not lol. I know basic fram filters aren’t well regarded. But I bought the ultra synthetic one that had good ratings.

Amazon.com

Would you recommend something else?

there is an old saying. a single test is worth 1000 opinions...















as a guy that regularly cuts apart and has been inspecting filters for over 40 years....

there was a time i would be confident enough to tell you to run a motorcraft and valvoline 10/30 regular.

i have in the last 5 years, begun to wonder if there is intentional failure built into these current production filters, ESPECIALLY since 21 or so. the bases, antidrainback, pleatbonding, and bypass setups are in a constant state of adjustment....not just for the fl1a style which is what i use the most...but also baldwin and wix as well for 15 liter applications...and some isuzu and cat 2.2-4.5 liter applications.

baseline filter i would recommend for a cologne is 51515. really consistent and no changes that were degrading so far..

the regular purolator has changed a bit.

i run the boss, or pure 1, or 51515.


the frams generally speaking are meh. but the older ones were garbage....the pleat bond was sometimes a clip or glued and shitty and they come apart on disassembly more then anything else.

the type you have is what was known as a wire mesh style and stronger then the typical 51515 which i hold as the standard... so that should be ideal and a way better filter right?, but there is more to it then that....way more.

i also use the purolator boss filter or 51515 filter on an LS 5.3 engine and used to use it on my 6.x diesel in my ranger when it was on the remote mount, these engines have block bypasses and i used to get shit from people about that.....but i digress.


i have had a 7.3 powerstroke engine go into 800k miles never opened up. lost a head gasket, ran great and oil samples were still acceptable. so i have high trust in rotella and motorcraft filters. testing indicates that the high spec synthetics would have had the engine in much better shape. but at what cost?



these days i mostly work on oil field equipment, so testing is part of the deal and pm properly executed should keep uptime maxed and costs down. currently i am working with piston and ring package options on 15-40 liter diesels to lower fuel consumption and oil contamination maxing oil life and efficiency and greatly reduce emmisions all in one shot with existing equipment..bypass filtration being a key factor in oil life.



this guy is part of that process.

spending some time with their data gathering since you are willing to get dirty will be an investment for you i suspect will be high in value.

 

[gaz]

@ryanthevan
The wear to your rods is the amount missing on each end added together...it's enough to cause a tick. The area to inspect on the rocker is here (red arrows in pic), in the cups.

• Smith Brothers sells replacement rods, custom length rods, adjustable rods...even titanium rods.
• Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Wa. has the only remaining supply of reinforced cup OHV 4.0l rockers.

The adjustable rods and improved cup rockers should save you the most money in the long run. The are only a slight increase in cost over OEM replacements, which, when installed in a used engine may still tick do to related valve train wear.

 

[BigAssTim]

I faced a similar issue. Ultimately, you have to decide how much of the onion (bad?) to peel before deciding enough is enough. I went all in and pulled everything apart, had machine work done and will have new parts galore!

Now to find my motivation again...... I think I lost in in the bucket of bolts and misc. items I forgot to label as I pulled the engine apart. :-(