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Jonny joints Or keep poly bushings


89_Black_Beast

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2007
Messages
82
City
PA
Vehicle Year
89'
Transmission
Manual
I was going to delete the poly bushings for jonny's so that I can lower the radius arms a little to correct caster and have better flex.

After reading another thread some guys like the polys cause they ride better and this is my winter DD.... I don't want to make the truck ride any worse... I'm trying to make it better and add flex...

I am doing this now because I have a leaking slave cylinder so the trans will already be out of the truck and I also need to replace my pivot bushings.

Here is my setup. Just looking at the front end you can see the caster looks like its out of wack.

8" SJ coils(4.0 Super)
6" Drop brackets
SJ extended arms( which I believe screwed my caster cause the lift is bigger than what they are made for)

So the problem now is whether to lower the poly bushings or delete them for jonny joints.

Also what is the stock caster for a D35???

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Just need some opinions and tech info from you guys
 
Stock caster setting is 2-6° (I like to shoot for around 3-5° myself).

The caster should be OK with your setup (a friend's truck with the same setup seems fine anyway, has good return-to-center).

As for johnny joints, I don't see much issue with them, they do have a urethane insulator unlike heim joints. I don't see where there would be anything to gain with them though. The stock-style donut bushings already allow far more flex that the coils in any RBV TTB lift kit are capable of.
 
x's 2 of what junkie said.....and rubber bushings seem to be more flexable than the poly bushings from what I have seen.

only time I see a heim or a JJ etc being usefull is when the beams have been extened and your running coil overs.
 
even with extended shocks(250 shock mounts) the radius arm polys have more flex then the shocks and coils will allow??
 
Ya, all TTB lift coils are to stiff.
 
your caster may be ok, but it will be a PITA. I have the same problem, but i have stock radius arms. Those beams are definitly leaning forward a lot and i know how hard that makes it to align the son of a bitch because i did my own on a hunter machine. On mine i could align one side, but not the other so i had to match them, now i have bad caster and bad camber. It looks like dropping the rad arm mounts would definitly help you out.
 
even with extended shocks(250 shock mounts) the radius arm polys have more flex then the shocks and coils will allow??

I just have poly donut bushings on mine...

(that's with Jeep coils and the F-250 brackets)

On your caster, what I would do is get the fully-adjustable 2-piece caster/camber bushings (Ingalls 594, etc), then you can set it for whatever amount you need (adding the most you can for caster correction, if needed).
The bushings on my buddy's Supercab with 8" coils & 6" lift brackets came out darn near 0° (one side had a bit of correction for camber IIRC, but none for caster). I would think yours would be similar if it's a Supercab.
 
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