Jballard81's 1994 super cab 4.0 4x4 Restore

[jballard81]

None of my '94s are automatic, but I did get a not-too-perfect picture of my '90 B2 (same column design) during the transmission conversion (auto to manual).

View attachment 107168

Crappy picture, I know.

Try routing your key-in-switch wire behind the PRNDL cable; if you have the wire slackness, to the left of where it clips into the pot metal housing.

Looks like your wire is also missing a braided protective sleeve like that found on my earlier truck.

Basically, if it apparent that your wire is too close to the moving shifter linkage, all you can do is play around with tweaking different routings to get it away. You look at the harnesses lower, to see if you can get a little more slack in the key wire.

Worst case scenario, you can cut and splice in a short section to extend the wire (solder & heatshrink). You could add a protective sleeve then too, or just use the smallest size convulated tubing (split-loom) to protect the wire.

That's actually a pretty good picture to explain the wire routing. much appreciated. Hopefully i can find a replacement without too much hassle..

 

[RobbieD]

Bummer.

Crumbling parts is just one of the reasons why we love these old trucks.

Good luck!

 

[jballard81]

I had to break out the magnifier headset but found the part number on the side of the broken wire:

F17B-11A128-AA which after calling my local Ford place actually decodes to: F1TZ11A128A
and neither of which return results in a google search

discontinued of course. might have to glue this one back together

 

[RobbieD]

The "annoying small parts" are getting tough on these older trucks. I don't know of a source for this switch; it may take a boneyard expedition to conjure up a good one.

 

[jballard81]

Glued the key in switch connector back together and threw the new ignition cylinder in. it went back together fine but i'm still getting funky behavior from the door jamb being open (or not) and the dome lights. I will try to hunt down a replacement from the junkyard this weekend. what years would be suitable donors? 85-94?

replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the throttle body (it was pretty nasty) and she seems to run pretty smooth. However, even after i felt the upper radiator hose get hot, the gauge cluster never registered anything for temperature. Does anyone have the book test handy for that connector?

Also, i replaced a 3/16 hose running from the back of the airbox to near the front of the air intake. I noticed where it connects the piece it connects to doesn't have a seal or anything to the air intake. not sure if this is intended or not so i grabbed a picture:

 

[Bgunner]

If I am not mistaken that valve opens to allow warm air to be sucked in from the exhaust manifold heat shield area. This helps when it is cold out. It provides a little warm air so the engine can idle and run better till the air temp warms up enough.

Inside the air cleaner box you will see a sensor with 2 vacuum hoses on the out side. This is a temp sensor that actuates that flapper in the air inlet from the exhaust manifold. When it gets cold enough that sensor allows the vacuum to pass through it to open the flapper. Once air temp is warm enough it will close it off allowing the main air inlet to be the only source of air for the air cleaner box.

No gasket is necessary at this flapper valve. You are good to go on this.


EDIT: In 95 they changed the interior so I am unsure if 95 will work or not. 89 through 94 had the same interior but there was a wiring change during those years. 93 and 94 are exactly the same for sure.

 

[jballard81]

Excellent, finally something I found that doesn't need replacement!

 

[RobbieD]

For your door pin switches you'll find the same switch on 1983 through 1994 Rangers. Ford started using that switch in the '70s, and used it in most of their models, so there's a zillion of them out there to pick from in the bone yards. 1995 and up went to the switches in the the doors.

If you want new ones, Standard is usually a good quality brand; DS-278.

 

[jballard81]

For your door pin switches you'll find the same switch on 1983 through 1994 Rangers. Ford started using that switch in the '70s, and used it in most of their models, so there's a zillion of them out there to pick from in the bone yards. 1995 and up went to the switches in the the doors.

If you want new ones, Standard is usually a good quality brand; DS-278.

Sorry, I meant the ignition cylinder 'key in switch' wire/connector that is broken on mine a few posts up. Are those as common?

 

[RobbieD]

You got me on that one. I'm sorry, I got side-tracked by your "funky behaviour from the door jamb being open (or not) and the dome lights".

I don't know if the key sense switch is new-made by anybody or not. That one may be a junkyard-only item (or hit-or-miss $$$ NOS, like on eBay).

 

[jballard81]

You got me on that one. I'm sorry, I got side-tracked by your "funky behaviour from the door jamb being open (or not) and the dome lights".

I don't know if the key sense switch is new-made by anybody or not. That one may be a junkyard-only item (or hit-or-miss $$$ NOS, like on eBay).

It doesn't appear to have a new replacement. I'm going to dig around in a boneyard. I'm curious as to which model years should have a similar wire.

 

[jballard81]

Pulled out most of the rest of the interior tonight.

Will try to pressure wash the carpet soon. Will be putting the passenger seat on the drivers side so I can hunting for treasure at the junkyard

 

[Bgunner]

Like I mentioned before the 93 and 94 are the same. 89 to 92 had the same interior but there was a wiring change I believe mid year of 89 though. This is for the key in ignition wire.

 

[jballard81]

Like I mentioned before the 93 and 94 are the same. 89 to 92 had the same interior but there was a wiring change I believe mid year of 89 though. This is for the key in ignition wire.

89-94 is a pretty tight range. Place I'm heading to tomorrow the oldest they have is a 95. Maybe there are some early 90s exploders there as well

The more hassle it gives me, the more I will investigate a bypass button or something. Not ideal by any means, but if I was looking for ideal, I probably wouldn't have a 30 year old truck

 

[jballard81]

replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the throttle body (it was pretty nasty) and she seems to run pretty smooth. However, even after i felt the upper radiator hose get hot, the gauge cluster never registered anything for temperature. Does anyone have the book test handy for that connector?

simple google search revealed that i need to replace the SENDING unit since my dash gauge isn't working. I should have known that. oh well!