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I've read a lot but still want input on Lifting my 93xlt 2WD


Radialbuzz

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
6
City
The Shity California Desert
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
I'll try and keep this short, I've been going up into the mountain more and more and I swear I keep getting stuck on stuff. I got stuck in some loose dirt twice, I got hung up on a downed tree then stuck in loose dirt beside it, Trying to get out of peoples way I bottomed out while going up a small berm on the side of a dirt road got hung up on some god forsaken tree/bush thing and got stuck in more loose dirt. It has happened so often my friends dubbed it the dirt magnet. :pissedoff:

Now what I'd like to do it lift it (front and back) 4'' and put some bigger tires on it, I want more ground clearance and a bigger foot print.

I'll admit that I really Don't know anything about the innermost working of my trucks (or any other trucks) suspension, so keep that in mind.

Now I've read up in the Tech Library and in the 2WD Ford Ranger Suspension Kits section the Autofab 83-97 econo lift kit seems promising but I don't see any explanation for lifting the rear or does it only lift the front? Also the part about "Autofab econo lifts are not intended for use offroad", So define off road, I'm not building a prerunner here.

Next, in the Lifting Your Ranger On A Budget section, there a few things I don't get. the part about

"On 2WD vehicles, you can replace the bolt that runs through the axle-beam with a longer one. The stock bolt will only allow you to add about 3/4" spacer. Be sure to use a grade 8 bolt & nuts."

So could I replace the bolt on the axle-beam holding the spring in place with a much longer one and install 4" worth of spacers in there? Or is there a limit to how far the stock axle-beam will pivot? or whats the limitation with this?

As for the rear lift is it possible/advisable to use a combination of replacing leaf spring shackles and 4x4 blocks to obtain 3 to 4 inches of lift?

As for tool I have an entire airport at my disposal full of anything you can think of so assume I what I need. :icon_welder:

I am looking to do this on a budget but I don't want to sacrifice safety and quality over price. Any input any of you guys can provide I would greatly appreciate. Thanks In advance. :) Sorry I failed at keeping it short.


This is it.
S7301467.jpg
 
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Yes, the Autofab Econo kit is a front-only kit, I think they say "not for offroad" just to cover their asses incase you break something because it's "not advisable to heat, bend, or weld" the stock beams. 4" of spacers will not work because of how the front TIB suspension flexes, you would either need "bent" beams like Autofab offers, or I-beam pivot drop brackets like most other kits to line the axles back up. My suggestion, if you're looking to do this on a budget, is watch for used parts and/or piece together a kit.

Your idea on the rear should work just fine, I know a lot of people use the Belltech 6400 shackles (lowering shackle for Chevy pick-ups, gives Rangers lift) to get 2" of lift, and IIRC certain 4x4 Rangers have ~2" blocks in the rear.

Oh, and I definitely recommend extended radius arms for the front, night-and-day difference in flex:icon_thumby:

Hope that helped!
 
i got a rancho 3'' on 31s and its awsome i got a 1996 ford ranger as for the rear i have add leaf it fine for what your doing. but other wise its useless to lift a 2wd mine came with the truck i just got the 31 for looks i also recomend gearing your truck if you get bigger tires. i have 4.10 gear the best way to do this just find a ranger with 4.10 gears and swap the rear end
 
Only thing I have to add is whichever way you go, take lots of pictures as you go and do a build thread to gain opinions and help as you go.

Ryan is correct in saying the "not for offroad use" disclaimer is to protect themselves from liability on something that gets twisted off during off road abuse.

As for the rear, I agree with remington115 that regearing might be something you want to do as well (especially if you have an automatic transmission). If that is something you are considering, I would find one of the 4x4 axles that came stock with the 4.10s and the factory limited slip differential. The LSD will prevent you from being hung up in loose dirt. I'd get the rear totally complete from the spring shakles down, and there is your rear lift already ready to go.
 
Yes, the Autofab Econo kit is a front-only kit, I think they say "not for offroad" just to cover their asses incase you break something because it's "not advisable to heat, bend, or weld" the stock beams.

no, it cause you need to set up the bumpstops,brake lines and limit straps, that are all extra's along with shocks.

it is true the CAST beams(89-97 rangers) are not as strong as the older forged beams.And will snap vs bend if you stuff it HARD with the cast beams.

there are plenty of bent cast beams running around doing fine with general off roading.
if ypur looking in to jumping the truck and stuffing the front end over every berm around, then yeah, you might have prblems with the cast beams.

but if your going to be strolling around on trails, they will work just fine

the econo kit will cost you around 800 bucks get under your truck right.
600 for the kit, 60 for low end shocks, 50 for dj safety limit straps, 50 for brakeline's and then alighment,junk yard for bumpstops, the rear ranger bumps work ok for the front

no the auto fab kit dose not come with anything for the rear,on the cheap you could throw some shackles to level it out.

if you have around 1200=1500 to spen on the front, dave @threat could hook you up with a nice front end thats wider and extended radius arms and such.
 
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Thanks guys, yeah I went to a local tire store that I go to for all my tire and suspension stuff, and consulted an 'expert' he quoted me 1342 for a procomp 4" kit with labor and alignment, but that wasn't including new 15X7s and 31"x10.5s and that came to 875 :sad: I mean its not like I can't afford it, I could co out and get everything right now but I've been out of work for the past 3 months from medical issues so its probably best if I hang on to my cash for the time being, well until the end of the year anyway.

Well actually what I can do for now, now that I'm back to work, is get the 2" coil spacer and stud extender kit and put the 31s on it, that should give me a bigger foot print and a little bit more ground clearance right? Or if nothing else then just for looks :cool: .
 
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I started out with F150 coil spacers, F150 shocks and a LS axel from a mazda with 3.73's on 31's and it worked fine, then bought the front end parts for a procomp 5" lift and used a set of old 4x4 blocks in the rear (flipped the rear hangers for more travel) and that worked well, as my budget grew I built a set of extended radius arms which made it a totally different truck, finnaly I tore the truck completely apart, now im into custom extended I beams, custom leaf springs,V-8 and full roll cage. best advice I can give is start small with spacers and shocks and go bigger when your budget agrees and when what you have done stops working for you. if you use coil spacers and wider wheels and tires make sure you check your brakelines, its not fun when you rub through a rubber flex line with a tire
 
Yeah I just half to start small, So Maybe this is a question for another section but I was talking to one of the old timers at my air port, he owns two 92 rangers himself, I told him what I wanted to with the 2" spacer and the 31"s and he said that might not be the best idea, he brought to my knowledge of Gear Ratio, he said it would mess with my mileage, acceleration, and I wouldn't be able to take hills that well.

He tried to explain it to me and I think I got it but could someone elaborate on what putting bigger wheels and tire on my ranger will do?
 
check your axel code on your dr. side door post than check in the tech library to see what gear ratio you have. I used a axel from a mazda with 3.73 gears and limited slip and it worked well, but yes larger tires will make your spedometer read false, slower off the line, not so fun on the highway, lots of info in the tech library for lifting 2WD's and spedo correction and proper gear ratio for larger tires
 
He tried to explain it to me and I think I got it but could someone elaborate on what putting bigger wheels and tire on my ranger will do?

Probably the easiest analogy for using bigger tires is think of a mountain bike. If you leave the bike in say, 6th you can do everything pretty easy, make it up hills and not totally wear yourself out. Putting bigger tires is like putting the bike all the way into the highest gear (maybe not that extreme, but to make the point..) With the bike in high gear, you can't take off from a stop that well, hills are harder (if not impossible) and you get tired a lot quicker trying to get up to speed.

Wow reading that back I guess it wasn't that easy.. Haha hope that makes sense!
 
Thank you gentlemen for all your input, I do appreciate your patience with handling another newb. TRS and you guys have given me a big Idea of what I want and where I want to go in my off adventures.

Yeah I started adding up the numbers and I was talking it over with a self proclaimed auto expert co-worker and I realized I'd be better off buying a newer used 4x4, Something like a 97 with newer safety features, ie. airbags :P .

So anyway the answer to all my questions just became 'in the marked for a 4x4'.

Thanks again guys
 

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