It Lives

[Ranger5.0]

Ok, so, it took over a week to get runing, but lets keep in mind im in class every day from 8-4 and it gets dark hear @5....not to mention its -15 by this time in the aternoon. What was the cause of the no starting issues? Well, there was a bad conection at the ECT conector. I had to replace the ECT cuz it was shot, but never looked at the conector its self. so, fixed that. Also, the vacume line for the MAP sensor had condensation in it, which froze up. Everything conbined to flood the hell out of the engine. It still runs rediculasly rich during warm up but i think that the MAP is fraged. Im also gonna check the fuel pressure at idle to see if the regulator has taken a poop on me.

 

[stranger]

glad to hear you got it running

 

[dangerranger91]

yea mine runs rich to but i screwed with the throttle body and it calmed down a hair

 

[bottledgt]

are you running mass air or speed density? mass air shouldnt have any vaccuum to the MAP..(actually its called a BAP on mass air)same piece though

 

[Ranger5.0]

danger ranger, define "screwed with the throttle body" Bottledgt, Its SD, hence the mapsensor lol. I didnt know it was the same part # tho, so thats interesting. Im gonna run another koeo test this week, I juss realized its a ecm for a manual tranny and theres no conection for the clutch switch ,so i cant run a koeo test, which blows a bit. Im using a Professional products 65mm TB which has an adjustment for the TPS, i set it to .98v at idle, and its a bit better now. I might lower it a bit more to see what it does. It only causes a drivability issue when its cold, once the engine warms up a bit its ok. Its got a new ECT sensor thats working properly, so thats not the cause.

 

[bottledgt]

are you sure you cant get codes? i just went through all this crap myself. mass air though. ive got the right ecu but after much tracing and elimination, i decided the ecu was bad,. it wouldnt stay running cold and burnt your eyes of gas always. terrible mileage. put a new ecu in and everything went back to normal. make sure you have the right ecu for that harness. which harness and ecu are you running

 

[stranger]

check and clean the iac (little silver can by tb) during cold start it raises idle by adding extra air.that goes with extra fuel on cold start.there is a proper procedure for setting tps.the tb stop needs to be gaped .001.losen and tighten tps to read .95v. then if necessary the tps holes need to be slotted and tps moved to get <.95v.all done with koeoff

 

[Ranger5.0]

Ok, so, I am sure i cant get codes. I need to conect the clutch switch to the harness and then i can go through the KOER dance and pull codes. Its not the IAC. then it would be only runing rich while ideling...it does it at idle, and untill 160degrees while driving. This issue just started recently, I have 1500km on the new engine and it was fine untill now. To set the TB i bought, you back out the idle screw compleatly, disconect the TPS start engine and turn in the stop screw untill the ECM can hold the idle as 650rpm. Shut engine off, re conect TPS restart then useing the tps adusting ring on the TB set the output voltage to .98V

 

[dangerranger91]

let slack i throttle cable but not enough you gotta press the petal a foot deep to go n checked all the sensors for corosion

 

[Ranger5.0]

dangerranger91- uh, what?

 

[stranger]

Its not the IAC. then it would be only runing rich while ideling...it does it at idle, and untill 160degrees while driving. This issue just started recently

iac will stay open @70% duty cycle till 160* in most cases @ idle and part throttle.clean the plunger make sure its working.adjusting ring? thats a new 1.do a search for better tps adj directions . you adjust idle with air not tb blade.thats why its called idle air control valve.

 

[Ranger5.0]

um, I excluded the IAC, and said is not the iac, because the iac is new, and clean. The Throddle body and TPS adjustment directions came with the throttle body. It was runing fine for 1200km, some thing went for a krap recently.

 

[stranger]

its an electronic part.unplug it does it run the same cold unpluged? then maybe its bad.theres also a little hole in tb where iac plunger allows air in.make sure its clean.alsomake sure its not backwards.yes it makes a difference.the colder weather just came 2, during warmer months less severe.also check all conectors and vacume hoses.if you put your hand over tb does it stall?

 

[Ranger5.0]

if the iac is un pluged, it shuts down, like its supposed to. The TB is new, so everything is clean. and it wont fit on backwards. blocking off the tb stalls the engine

 

[stranger]

just food for thought.since iac is working.most efi use 195* thermostats.with a 160 it is taking a long time to heat o2 staying open loop longer and more noticeable. may be that simple