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issues.....lost....PLEASE HELP!!!


kohlbeezy

Active Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
40
City
Fair Oaks, CA
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
So I recently just rebuilt my m5r1. Everything went great. Installed new slave, clutch set, and flywheel. Got everything installed and truck doesn't want to go into gear. Rebled everything. Ran 2 reservoirs worth of fluid through it. Still won't go into gear while running. I can see the slave actuating. Pulled the hydraulic line back off to see if I maybe have some air in the line and I can't move the pedal at all so I know there's no air in the line. Does anyone have any ideas?? The entire set up is out of a 91 expo. I completely swapped everything. Please help!!
 
Is the pressure plate new?

If not you may have forgotten to reset it, most factory pressure plates are self adjusting, they have 3 or 4 springs that move the pressure plate closer to the flywheel as the clutch disc wears down, this keeps the pedal in the middle for disengage and engage.
If you put a new clutch disc in then un-reset pressure plate won't move enough to disengage.

If you can see or feel the springs they should be fully compressed

Google: self adjusting pressure plate

And I have heard of people buying new pressure plates that had not been reset from the factory.
 
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Everything is brand new...right out of the box and onto the truck. I'll Google the self adjusting pressure plate
 
Then it must be the Master, it can get air trapped at the top, so you don't get full travel.
You would only notice this on a new clutch.

Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

Good video on how to remove c-clip on Master and let out any air that might be inside.
If reservoir ever went dry that could be the problem.
 
Then it must be the Master, it can get air trapped at the top, so you don't get full travel.
You would only notice this on a new clutch.

Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

Good video on how to remove c-clip on Master and let out any air that might be inside.
If reservoir ever went dry that could be the problem.

I don't think it's the master. I unhooked it from the trans at the quick disconnect and I have zero travel on the pedal. Thus should mean there is no air in the system. I also looked up that self adjusting pressure plate and I don't think mine is like that unless all pressure plates have to adjust somehow.
 
You can use a non-self adjusting pressure plate(no springs around the fingers), but you will find kind of what you have now.
With new clutch disc installed the pedal will have to be all the way to the floor to disengage, then throughout the life of the clutch disc the pedal will disengage clutch higher and higher on the pedal until clutch is worn out, top of pedal, and will not engage, slips.
Nothing wrong with that, self adjusting is a convenience not a necessity.

For the new clutch to disengage you have to have full pedal travel, if air is ABOVE the master piston then you won't have full travel, and pedal would feel tight because the air is not in the line, it's above the piston, its the angle of the master that causes this.
I would try the bleeding method in that video, if that's not it then you will have to pull the trans and clutch again, you have a defective slave or ......??

And make sure pedal arm or shaft is not bent and pedal mechanics are not loose, either can limit travel and with new clutch disc and a non-self adjusting pressure plate you need every 1/8" you can get.

Look up the prices of the two kinds of pressure plates the non-self adjusting are less money so are often the popular choice.
 
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Ok so I just installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it the correct way. Then gravity and vacuum bled it for about two or three reservoirs worth of fluid. Still will not go into gear. I see the slave engaging and flattening out the fingers on the flex plate. I am at a complete loss. If it was a bad slave would it not actuate at all?
 
When you took the shift lever out of the tranny you probably moved the internals. If you cannot shift into all your gears when not running take the shift lever out and look inside. In neutral there should be a center slot that the lever fits into and a slot on either side with a button on the outer edge. These slots should all be lined up if not take a blade screwdriver and move the middle one to it's center position then press the buttons on the side slots and move them to match the center slot put together and test. I will get some photos of mine as I am planning to change my tranny fluid today.
 
When you took the shift lever out of the tranny you probably moved the internals. If you cannot shift into all your gears when not running take the shift lever out and look inside. In neutral there should be a center slot that the lever fits into and a slot on either side with a button on the outer edge. These slots should all be lined up if not take a blade screwdriver and move the middle one to it's center position then press the buttons on the side slots and move them to match the center slot put together and test. I will get some photos of mine as I am planning to change my tranny fluid today.

i dont have any issues shifting into any of the gears when NOT running... it just will not fall into any gear when it is running...grinds when trying to put into reverse, doesnt grind when trying to put into any other gear.
 
Having the exact same problem, was this ever resolved?
 

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