Issue with Skyjacker FR34s leaf spring install

[Hillyard]

Which way should the wedge on the leaf springs be pointed when installed? I have the thin edge pointing toward the cab but my axle is now pointing straight up at the driveshaft. this is making the driveshaft point straight at the back axle.

It's s 2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 5 speed. I was trying to get rid of the blocks but now my pinon angle is all messed up.

 

[Hillyard]

I believe I need to take the shims out of the leaf spring pack. If I do this what do they need to be torqued to?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You might want to check your first post, it doesn't make sense. I think you used the same word "driveshaft" when you meant something else. A pic might help clarify what you're talking about too.

 

[Hillyard]

You might want to check your first post, it doesn't make sense. I think you used the same word "driveshaft" when you meant something else. A pic might help clarify what you're talking about too.

You're correct - I fixed it.

I have a 2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 and thought the FR34s leaf springs would be a simple swap out with the factory leaf springs. I also wanted to get rid of the blocks.

Here is everything I had to modify in the process to get them to work. It's not a major ordeal by any means but if this is your only vehicle, it could definitely take it down for a couple days waiting on parts. Below will help you know what parts to order prior to installing, thus helping with turn around times.

• Remove Axle Perch Correction Shims from the FR34s leaf spring packs - they're are not needed and will severely mess up the pinion angle if left installed.
• Energy Suspension 4.2154G Leaf Spring Bushing Set Black Rear - The supplied bushings on the FR34s will need to be pressed or burned out. I pressed them out since I had a hydraulic press.
• 2x M16-2.0 Pitch, 110mm Metric Bolts - The bottom shackle bolt will be loose with the prothane bushing kit as it's only supplied with one size sleeve. The frontward bolt is M16 and the back one is M14. The kit makes both leaf spring eyelet bolts M16.
• Drill out Lower Shackle Hole to accommodate the M16 Bolt.
• 2008+ trucks will need new shocks - My factory shocks were at max height after I installed the leaf springs - luckily I already planned on installing Bilstein shocks.
• The Rear Exhaust Hanger will have to be modified if you have a factory type exhaust. I ended up buying a vertical adjusting hanger for the rear support. (I don't remember having this issue on my 2004 Ranger Edge, perhaps you can yank a rear exhaust support off an earlier year 4x4 FX4 or Edge.)
• Remove the bed - I would not try to do this with the bed still installed.
• Kroil - Luckily my truck doesn't have much surface rust but if your truck has seen a lot of salt laden roads, start shooting the bolts a few days prior to even messing with them.

Hopefully, this will help somebody else out.