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is there a reason my spark plug would explode in the engine?



May the Gods have mercy on you.
 
Hell... I just drove through Plainfield on the way to my daughters house in Joliet.

With that sense of humor... are you Melissa McCarthy?
 
So we changed the sparks in it, and did a basic tune up. I forgot to take a picture of the blown spark plug but the ceramic was like completely gone, We fished out any remaining bits left in the hole. Anyway, it runs and starts but now when I try to move from a dead stop it almost feels like it doesn’t get enough gas. Thinking the fuel filter but not sure
 
Probably not fuel filter if it runs OK at speed, clogged filter limits flow so idle and starting off would be OK but at speed, higher fuel demand, it would start to stall out
But for $10 its always good to change fuel filter every 5 years

I would test for vacuum leak first
Warm up engine, let it idle and then unplug IAC Valve's 2 wire connector
Valve will close and RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, either is GOOD, it means no vacuum leak

Clean MAF sensor, every year on the 4.0l OHV
Dirty MAF causes bogging when starting off

TPS(throttle position sensor) is a long shot but not a no shot
It gives the computer a "heads up" when you press down on gas pedal, without a heads up acceleration would be delayed because fuel mix would still be at idle levels until MAF sensor and RPM sensor rates increased
 
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Can't remember if you mentioned this, but have you zip tied your throttle cable yet?

I swear we should send a link to that in the registration email...
 
The zip tie mod counters cable stretch in the throttle cable and gives a better throttle response. It is a cheap and easy fix for older Rangers.
 
Helps greatly with acceleration, pedal response, etc.

Basically, over time the throttle cables stretch, and you are not able to fully open the throttle body as they stretch. before i did it to my 1988, pedal to the floor was only 50% throttle
 
Okay so I’m not sure how to do this but when I go over to work on it more tomorrow I’ll look at it
 
There should be an article in the tech library. Basically, you just tighten zip tie(s) between the cable swedge and the gas pedal arm. The bigger the zip tie and the more zip ties you use, the more slack is taken up. Just use enough to remove the slack and try not to move the throttle plate on the throttle body.
 
Here's the link to the Throttle Cable Mod.
I was curious so I looked it up. Will add it to my list of to-do's.
 

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