Is it DEAD?

[MIseeker]

I have a 97 2.3 2wd. In 2016 when it was my daily a tree fell on it, and it was pretty ugly ( no broken glass !!! ) so I retired it to work truck status, using it around my property when I am cutting firewood etc. Its been a great truck, but other than toting my wood cutting tools its pretty much shot. Brakes quit working, electrical shorts led me to disabling the back lights, etc etc. Today, out of the blue, the clutch started slipping to the point of zero movement. the truck isnt worth putting the money into by replacing the clutch, so I wondered if there could be something else. Like i said, the brakes gave out a while ago ( pedal to the floor no fluid loss ), no fluid loss in the clutch slave. No problem getting it into gear. It just wont MOVE lol. I will admit to overloading it frequently, since its never on the road. Is there a possibility its a vacuum problem? It is going into gear, 1st and reverse. Sure seems like its the clutch to me, but if its something cheap and simple its worth doing. Besides, I hate junking my old Rangers.

 

[adsm08]

A manual trans is slipping and you are wondering if there is a possible vacuum issue?

There is no part of the clutch controls that is vacuum operated on a manual transmission.

 

[RonD]

Its the clutch disc, 100% sure, its too thin now

If engine seems to be OK you could see if you can find a 1995-2000 Ranger 2.3l or 2.5l or same years Mazda B2300/B2500
With bad engine and get it cheap and swap engines
Won't work with 1994 or earlier, and won't work with 2001 and up 2.3l

Or you could install a new clutch in what you got

 

[Alan_nc]

They are never 'dead' it's just an economic issue.= how much is it worth to you to have it running again.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

A clutch is like 150 bucks. I gurantee you aint gonna find another running farm beater for that price

 

[MIseeker]

A manual trans is slipping and you are wondering if there is a possible vacuum issue?

No, I said the clutch is slipping. I ask because im not a mechanic. Sorry. I thought i was clear it was a clutch problem

 

[MIseeker]

Its the clutch disc, 100% sure, its too thin now

If engine seems to be OK you could see if you can find a 1995-2000 Ranger 2.3l or 2.5l or same years Mazda B2300/B2500
With bad engine and get it cheap and swap engines
Won't work with 1994 or earlier, and won't work with 2001 and up 2.3l

Or you could install a new clutch in what you got

My son owns a parts yard, so I may go the used parts route.. Old rangers tend to be driven to death around here lol.

 

[MIseeker]

They are never 'dead' it's just an economic issue.= how much is it worth to you to have it running again.

True, its also a time issue. And i do have another Ranger as my daily.

 

[MIseeker]

A clutch is like 150 bucks. I gurantee you aint gonna find another running farm beater for that price

Oh yeah, my son owns a parts yard. It just wont be perfect like this one lol.

 

[adsm08]

You literally asked if it could be a vacuum problem.

 

[MIseeker]

You literally asked if it could be a vacuum problem.

Yeah I did. Look, I like this forum. But if you are the boss and dont like people asking questions, i'll leave. I mean, how dare i ask a mechanical question on an automotive forum Right? And I DID NOT say the trans was slipping. Didnt ask a trans question. But your snide remark was about my trans slipping. Ill save the prime comments.

 

[Curious Hound]

Many people consider the clutch to be part of the transmission, much the way the torque converter is considered part of an automatic transmission. @adsm08 was just trying to address the issues you brought up. He is an excellent technician and very helpful and knowledgeable around here. I really doubt that his comments were intended to be snide.

About your truck; if it were mine and it's as useful around home as you seem to say it is, I would put brand new clutch parts in it, fix the brakes and wiring and keep enjoying it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it hadn't slipped before and now it won't move, it could be a master cylinder problem, my '97 did almost that a month ago but not THAT bad, changed the master cylinder and it's good to go now. Master cylinder was like $65 at Napa and took maybe 2 hours to change start to finish, the only bolt to remove to do the job is the reservoir bolt, the master cylinder is a twist lock and the quick connect sleeve just slides in (there's a tool for it, I used a flat screwdriver but I'm not in the rust belt). Not saying it's easy, it's tight under there...

Not saying it isn't the clutch either, it's a thing... That isn't that bad of a novice project either, get the rig on ramps up front, jack stands in rear, 4 bolts with 12mm 12pt heads for the driveshaft and if extended cab whatever it takes to get the carrier bearing out, support the transmission with a ratchet strap over the frame rails, remove trans crossmember (or do that later, probably later...). 13mm ratcheting wrench for bellhousing bolts (do it from underneath, it's easier for the top two), I think 17mm for the starter bolts, get the clutch quick connect fitting loose, speedo sensor connector disconnected on the rear and reverse switch connector loose then drop the trans. Might be a weekend project, could be an evening, depends on how handy you are and how rusty things are...

 

[MIseeker]

If it hadn't slipped before and now it won't move, it could be a master cylinder problem, my '97 did almost that a month ago but not THAT bad, changed the master cylinder and it's good to go now. Master cylinder was like $65 at Napa and took maybe 2 hours to change start to finish, the only bolt to remove to do the job is the reservoir bolt, the master cylinder is a twist lock and the quick connect sleeve just slides in (there's a tool for it, I used a flat screwdriver but I'm not in the rust belt). Not saying it's easy, it's tight under there...

Not saying it isn't the clutch either, it's a thing... That isn't that bad of a novice project either, get the rig on ramps up front, jack stands in rear, 4 bolts with 12mm 12pt heads for the driveshaft and if extended cab whatever it takes to get the carrier bearing out, support the transmission with a ratchet strap over the frame rails, remove trans crossmember (or do that later, probably later...). 13mm ratcheting wrench for bellhousing bolts (do it from underneath, it's easier for the top two), I think 17mm for the starter bolts, get the clutch quick connect fitting loose, speedo sensor connector disconnected on the rear and reverse switch connector loose then drop the trans. Might be a weekend project, could be an evening, depends on how handy you are and how rusty things are...

Thanks