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Interesting discovery on the 2.8 models


franklin2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
4,523
City
Virginia
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
Been having hot fuel problems with my Bronco II. Bucking, stalling out on hot days, especially when sitting in traffic. Changed the oil the other day and while I was under there, traced the fuel line on the driver's side frame. It is located inside the "C" of the frame with the brake lines, and runs all the way up front till it gets near the engine. It is then bent outward to go around the top of the "C" of the frame and rides along the top of the frame in the engine compartment, changes to a rubber hose, and is hooked to the fuel pump.

Guess what is right there about 1 inch away from the fuel line as it bends around the top of the frame? You guessed it, the exhaust manifold and y downpipe. Very poor design. I will eventually I think move the fuel line to the outside of the frame. But for now I took a old heater hose, sliced it all the way down one side, and wire tied it around the fuel line in this area. I already am noticing a big difference in how it runs in the heat of the day.
 
Yes, common issue on carb fuel systems when weather is hot

I grew up in southern calif and in the days of carbs, we used to clamp on wooden cloths pins to the metal fuel line near the exhaust, they act like a heat sink and draw away the warmth from the line
But that was back in the day you could get wooden cloth pins anywhere, lol

We also used one for "summer choke"
You set your choke for winter so it closes all the way, then in the summer instead of resetting it you just clamp a clothes pin to it to hold it open a bit :)
 
Vapor lock problems are much worse now because of the alcohol in the gas, it's hard to call something that worked for 35 years a poor design. You might try wrapping the area of the fuel line near the exhaust with header tape or aluminum duct tape to reflect the heat.
 
Yes, common issue on carb fuel systems when weather is hot

I grew up in southern calif and in the days of carbs, we used to clamp on wooden cloths pins to the metal fuel line near the exhaust, they act like a heat sink and draw away the warmth from the line
But that was back in the day you could get wooden cloth pins anywhere, lol

We also used one for "summer choke"
You set your choke for winter so it closes all the way, then in the summer instead of resetting it you just clamp a clothes pin to it to hold it open a bit :)
I dont see wood acting as a heat sink. Maybe as insulation.
 
I've always deleted the cam actuated fuel pump for electric, but have never owned a running 2.8 to test.
 
Header wrap would be the best option but as an added heat deflector/dissipater some aluminum tape around the rubber line as a heat shield would help.

If you lived closer I'd tear off a chunk from my roll and give it to ya.
 
The stuff just flat out works.

 
Check out my last thread in this forum. I was having the same issue and I recent changed to non-ethanol gas and so far (fingers crossed) it has helped.
 
The line is inside the frame to protect it from both road debris and accidents. I have never had vapor lock or fuel problems on my 1985, I will have to see how I actually ran the lines :-D I am running a clear (big) glass fuel filter.
 
The line is inside the frame to protect it from both road debris and accidents. I have never had vapor lock or fuel problems on my 1985, I will have to see how I actually ran the lines :-D I am running a clear (big) glass fuel filter.
The move from inside the frame to the top of the frame is where the problem is. Of course the newer fuels are aggravating this problem. But it's obvious that original line is way to close to the exhaust system where it bends around the top of the frame.
 

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