Interesting Clunking Happening...

[RhainyC]

I am posting this here, because the work we just did was on the steering gearbox...though it may not be the problem...

Ok so we got the steering gearbox in and everything seems fine...except, the truck is now making a clunking noise when I brake firmly. It feels like it is, I don't know how to describe it, perhaps like the motor is shifting forward? The whole truck seems to shift forward with a clunk...it's really weird.

I know the motor mounts aren't broken as my mechanic checked that, and everything when he looked her over after the wreck.

It has me a bit confused...it is not when braking normally, but I had to step kind of hard on the brakes and as I was coming to a complete stop the clunking happened.

Any ideas?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Sounds like radius arm bushings to me, they will cause a clunk under braking going forwards and backwards

 

[Joshs93four-oh]

radius arm bushings
________
Honda mb/t/x series specifications

 

[baddis]

+! on the radius arm bushings

 

[RhainyC]

Ok so how hard are they to change? Are any specialty tools required?

When the shop looked at the truck after the wreck, they didn't mention those as being bad in their estimate...and they did a pretty thorough job with the estimate, as they even said *suprisingly the ball joints look great*...

 

[MAKG]

Changing radius arm bushings is quite a lot harder than it has to be.

The back end is really easy; it's just a 1 1/8 inch (or 30 mm) socket. The cat may need to come out for clearance. But for the front "mushroom" bushings, either the radius arms or the radius arm bracket has to come off.

To get the radius arms off, you basically have to disassemble the whole front suspension. Not too much more than a lot of leverage, jacks and prybars, but many of those bolts are in there very tight.

To get the bracket off, you need to grind off or drill out four rivets. Replace with same-size grade 5 bolts (you WANT these to bend or break in a collision because they don't support the vehicle and are easy to replace) and Nylock nuts.

If you plan on ever installing a suspension lift, remove the bracket. Otherwise, it's up to you. Grinding off or drilling out rivets gives some people the willies. Removing the suspension is time consuming and it's a real workout, but it's just bolts.

 

[RhainyC]

MAKG,

Okay...that sounds doable...scary a bit admittedly, but definitely doable.

The real question is, does that sound like what the problem is...and is it critical that I fix it soon? I will have to have the front end partially apart already to install the new steering linkage...so should I just go ahead and fix the bushings while that is going on?

This is kinda new to me so I am asking newb questions...LOL

 

[MAKG]

It's a common fault, but it isn't always testable without disassembling it. When the bushings rot, it's generally inside the bracket where you can't see it.

Something you CAN do without disassembly is check out the back ends -- in particular, the plastic rear spacers sometimes break. These are quite quick to replace, though you have to get them from the dealer (don't worry -- they are quite cheap). There is one on each side underneath the nut and washer, in the back of the bracket.

If you let this go and you're having steel contact the bracket, it will chew up the bracket. That's not a massively expensive problem, but it's a bigger one than you have now.

Loose radius arm bushings affect handling by changing the caster angle. They can cause intermittent pulls, and make the steering squirrely.

Something to check first is that all the lugnuts are tight. Also give all the body mounts a looking over. And check that the rear suspension bolts (especially the U-bolts) are tight.

 

[RhainyC]

MAKG, thanks as always for awesome advice, will do as suggested, and probably go ahead when the steering linkage is replaced, replace the bushings as well...

May as well do it all if they are not that spendy to fix. Save the trouble down the road...

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Easiest way to do the job is to remove all the rivets from the radius arm crossmember, undo the 30mm nuts on the radius arms studs, slide the whole crossmember off, install new bushings (I suggest the Moog rubber bushings) and reassemble, installing the crossmember with some grade 5 bolts. (7/16"x1 if i remember right)