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Installing rocker switches on the dash. (quck mid progress question)


LittleBigFoot

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I'm installing some new lights I got for wicked cheap. I've got two on my light bar and two for my bumper.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to install the rocker switches.

Would it be a good idea to pull the pannel (next to the steering column where the original headlight knob is) and cut the wholes, with it out, or would I be safe keeping it in when I cut.

I don't wan to cut anything i shouldn't in the process.


Thanks,
LBF

Oh, by the way, if pulling the pannel is a good idea, whats the best way to go about that? I've pulled the back pannels before and I don't want ot jack up the little plastic "locks" by just yanking on it.

Thanks again,
LBF
 
Do you have an after market radio? I have aftermarket radio and i placed a small plate up under it because it is smaller than that stock. I have not finished it yet. but i can get four switches on it and i will not have to cut any holes in my dash. that is just my two cents. and what i did. It makes a nice little swith board and looks good with the truck.
 
As for the little plastic locks, I think they make special tools that can pop those off without damaging them. You may want to go to an audio shop and see if they have tools they reccomend. This way in the future it will keep those pesky things from breaking. I like the idea of them mounted by the regular lights. How many switches do you plan on? i have my switch mounted on my explorer console.
 
I got two sets of Baja lights (I know, not the best, but what ever, all my money's goin into the SAS)

I've got two mounted on my bumper, and two mounted on my light bar behind my cab. It looks pretty bad ass. Rockers for both. I'm going to try to fab something to go in the little compartment under the radio. I've go no use for that area.

I got rid of my circle ones cause with my cheapo cb antenna mounted in the center of the back of my cab, it kinda looks like a phalic symbol lol

Thanks for the help and ideas, guys.

Horray for TRS!
 
i just mounted mine to the bottom of the dash by the 4wd lever.
:worthless:
i want to see how it looks:D
 
I'll post pics when i'm finished. I had to go to work and I might not finish till tomorrow. At least they're mounted and look bad ass.
 
I got rid of my circle ones cause with my cheapo cb antenna mounted in the center of the back of my cab, it kinda looks like a phalic symbol lol

:icon_rofl:
 
i did 5 L.E.D. rockers mounted on a piece of 1/16th aluminum that i polished up. i cut off the back of the pocket thats integrated into the aftermarket radio adaptor and screwed the panel over the opening. i have gotten alot of comments on it especially since the green lights go with the stock green dash backlighting.
 
I just completely rewired my electrical system on my ranger; I am a volunteer firefighter so I run my warning lights (strobes, LEDs and a set of alternating halogens) and I have two 130 watt KC daylighters on my bumper. I will post more pics when I have a faster connection, but I found a fuse box that is made to be used on boats and mounted it behind the rear seat, I then ran a 6 gage wire to my battery that powers the fuse box. From there I ran wires to my switches and then to my different accessoires so they are fused and have a common power source (not steeling power from anything else).


The switches I decided to mount in my dash, I had to pull it and carefully pry-ed the clips out from the frame, I didnt use any special tools. I also had to pull my radio console to get this part of the dash out. Great time to replace burnt out bulbs BTW.

34248483vf0.jpg



39169389my8.jpg
 
That looks damn good buggy man. I think I'm goin that route.
 
what do you mean? i just utilized the 3 "steps" on the dash to the left of the steering column to install my toggles (with room for future expansion)...:dntknw:
 
Looks like a clean set up Buggyman. Wicked_Sludge, yours looks good too.

I've done the switches in the dash before. When I did TRS-2 I made a little console out of sheets of styrofoam wrapped in fiberglass and stuck my switches and CB in it.

11steps02b.jpg

11steps02.jpg


I don't have a straight on shot at the moment.

I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a bunch of matching toggle switches, a couple of fuse blocks, wire and some relays.

18step02.jpg


There is a fused power wire coming from the battery in to the cab and in to an extra fuse block behind the console. From there, the block feeds power from a fused line to the switches. They go to relays that turn on the power from a fused line at the relay and then sends power to my lights. The picture above is the block and relay for the lights on the bed cage. They're mounted in the tool box below the cage to keep them safe and dry. There is a fuse in the battery box right outside of the tool box powering the relay. I never have to worry about a short causing a fire because the wires are fused right at the power source.

11steps03a.jpg


The only problem I had was that the wire feeding the fuse block in the tool (bed) box wasn't big enough (it was 10-gauge and about 2-foot long) and once in a while would blow the fuse at the battery. When I was in Kentucky, Sparkz hooked me up with some larger wire.

Also, I only use the fuses that glow when they blow out so you can find the problem quickly because they only get loads on them at night.

I don't like wiring in to the existing fuse block anymore. Small blade style fuse blocks are cheap to buy. I add a new block and then wire any accessories off of that. I also don't use the round glass type fuses in the wires. If I use a fuse in-line I use a blade style fuse. This way All I have to worry about having is a box of blade type fuses and if worse came to worse I could pull one from something else. If I don't have a fuse plug I just stick a blade style fuse in to two female connectors and wire in-line. Small blade style fuse blocks are cheap to buy.

One more thing, since I have a vinyl cutter I made small decals to stick over the switches so I know what's what. You may think you don't need it because you know what's what, but sometimes I have someone reach in the truck to turn something on or off for me.

When I rebuild TRS-1 I want to have something in the cab and on the back of the truck that will kill the power to the whole rig in one shot in an emergency.

One other thing, not knocking Buggyman, but I'd suggest color coordinating your wires instead of using one color for everything. Even if it's just something simple like using red as hot to the switch, black for ground and _______ for the switched power going to the lights. It makes it alot easier a year from now if you go back in to do any kind of work whether it be for repair, upgrade, adding stuff, etc.

Ok, I swear this is the last thing............give yourself (wires) some slack, especially if the wires are going to something in the bed. Ever see how much the bed and cab can move from one another when trucks flex off-road?



Ok, I guess I've gotten a little off subject........................
 
one thing that i did to make my wiring alot cleaner was to connect all the grounds for the lights in the switches to a common ground so i only had one wire going from the "switch area" to the ground location.
 

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