- Joined
- Apr 15, 2025
- Messages
- 12
- City
- Seattle, WA
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Engine
- 2.9 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
Pulled the intake off my 87 XLT and am reinstalling it. I've not done a V-type engine intake manifold before, and I've read that lower manifold installation on this engine is an easy thing to screw up, so I want to give myself as much chance to get it right as I can. I have the paperback Chilton manual for that year and I've read KTRANGER's tech article on 2.9L head replacement that includes the 5-step torque-down sequence for the lower manifold.
I'm using an ROL 1-part folded cardboard gasket, which has cork sealing strips at the front and back of the lifter valley but no sealing rings around any of the intake or coolant ports. So I'm assuming I'll have to apply a thin coat of rtv around each of them, on both sides of the gasket, and get things in place and the initial torque-down done before it skins over. I have the original gasket, which had cork strips and blue sealant rings/strips at the critical mating surfaces, so I imagine I can use that as a guide as to where I need to apply silicone.
Here's what Chilton gives as the torque sequence:
To me this seems goofy, I've always thought that with manifolds and heads you start from the center and work out toward the edges. I'm wondering if I I'd be better following this sequence for the first one or two torque-down steps and then going 5-6-7-8-4-3-2-1 for the higher torques. Chilton has it this way for the 2.9 and 4.0 engines but basically opposite for the 3.0. Since my gasket has no preinstalled sealant I'm also thinking about first installing it dry at low torque and leaving it overnight so it gets used to the shape and location where it needs to be and I don't smear sealant everywhere when I'm doing the final install.
What have I missed, and am I out to lunch somewhere? Many expert members here, and I'd very greatly appreciate any tips, guidance, or feedback people can offer before I get started.
I'm using an ROL 1-part folded cardboard gasket, which has cork sealing strips at the front and back of the lifter valley but no sealing rings around any of the intake or coolant ports. So I'm assuming I'll have to apply a thin coat of rtv around each of them, on both sides of the gasket, and get things in place and the initial torque-down done before it skins over. I have the original gasket, which had cork strips and blue sealant rings/strips at the critical mating surfaces, so I imagine I can use that as a guide as to where I need to apply silicone.
Here's what Chilton gives as the torque sequence:
To me this seems goofy, I've always thought that with manifolds and heads you start from the center and work out toward the edges. I'm wondering if I I'd be better following this sequence for the first one or two torque-down steps and then going 5-6-7-8-4-3-2-1 for the higher torques. Chilton has it this way for the 2.9 and 4.0 engines but basically opposite for the 3.0. Since my gasket has no preinstalled sealant I'm also thinking about first installing it dry at low torque and leaving it overnight so it gets used to the shape and location where it needs to be and I don't smear sealant everywhere when I'm doing the final install.
What have I missed, and am I out to lunch somewhere? Many expert members here, and I'd very greatly appreciate any tips, guidance, or feedback people can offer before I get started.